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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After putting the correct NGK plugs in my black ‘vert, I figured it was time to tackle an issue with my blue ‘vert. The car appears to be lethargic off the line…just doesn’t have the power it should. Where should I start? I don’t have any check engine lights and the car seems (noise wise) to be running right. I’m wondering if the MAF, fuel filter, air filter, or _________ could be the problem. Where should I start?
Thanks!
James
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Never even thought about a clogged catalytic converter! How would I go about checking that?

The turbo needele goes just into the yellow under normal acceleration and under heavy acceleration a little further than 1/2 way into the yellow.


Thanks

James
 

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Start with a tuneup if you haven't: Fresh NGK copper plugs, Aif filter, fuel filter. Clean MAF, clean TB. Replace all small vacuum lines. Run a bottle of Techron Fuel System Cleaner through a tank.

See if it improves. If not, try swapping the DIC from your other car and see if that helps.

Once you know that the basics are OK, you can start looking at other issues like the BPC, wastegate, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Going to give the car a tune-up as the last major service (minus oil changes) was about 18k miles ago. I bought an air filter (advance auto)that was listed for the car but it doesn't fit. Went to Autozone and grabbed one from them...same issue. It's about an inch too wide and and inch short. ARGHH! Anyone know of a stock filter that will fit?

How do I clean the MAF and the TB? I'll look over the vacuum lines. Is that something I can buy at a general auto parts store or do I need to hit the dealer for that?

Thanks

James
 

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Going to give the car a tune-up as the last major service (minus oil changes) was about 18k miles ago. I bought an air filter (advance auto)that was listed for the car but it doesn't fit. Went to Autozone and grabbed one from them...same issue. It's about an inch too wide and and inch short. ARGHH! Anyone know of a stock filter that will fit?

How do I clean the MAF and the TB? I'll look over the vacuum lines. Is that something I can buy at a general auto parts store or do I need to hit the dealer for that?

Thanks

James
Clean the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner.. the TB with Throttle Body cleaner. Some Carburetor cleaners are safe for the TB but check the label to be sure.

To clean the MAF, remove it (easy), spray with the cleaner a few times in all directions, let dry completely, re-install. TB can be cleaned in place by carefully spraying down the throat with the engine off. Watch the blowback if you're trying to look down there at the same time.

For the vacuum lines, buy 10 feet of 5/32 hose from any autoparts store. Change them one at a time, one end at a time. Some of the ones by the TB / Manifold are a little hard to reach on the T7 but a pair of long nose or bent nose pliers should help.

Do you have the PCV #6 upgrade in this car ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm fairly certain I have the latest PCV update. I'm going to attach a picture. Let me know if it looks like I have the current update. I pulled the MAF sensor and looked at the 3 sensors on the inside and they are still bright silver (I had heard that blackened sensors would support MAF replacement) and the front screen had some crud on it. I am going to attach a pic of that too. When I spray the MAF do I spray everything including the connector or just the "metal" parts? I'm hoping to have my "to do" list ready for the weekend.

Thanks again for all the help!!
 

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I'm fairly certain I have the latest PCV update. I'm going to attach a picture. Let me know if it looks like I have the current update. I pulled the MAF sensor and looked at the 3 sensors on the inside and they are still bright silver (I had heard that blackened sensors would support MAF replacement) and the front screen had some crud on it. I am going to attach a pic of that too. When I spray the MAF do I spray everything including the connector or just the "metal" parts? I'm hoping to have my "to do" list ready for the weekend.

Thanks again for all the help!!
I think that's PCV #6... I will look at my car in the day tomorrow to try to verify, but it looks good from here.

Spray all the metal parts. Actual crud in the screen is fairly bad IMHO so that could be part of your problem. The key area are the little wires themselves.

Has this car ever run a K&N / oil type air filter? I'm wondering if it's accumulation from that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, i started the car with the MAF disconnected and it ran horribly...sputtered and then stalled. Since I had the MAF out anyways, I went ahead and cleaned it with MAF cleaner. Now it looks brand new. I decided to check out the TB too. I pulled the delivery pipe (is that what it's called) off of the TB to see how it looked. Should I pull it off to clean it or do it while it is still attached to the motor. Also, how do u get the flutter thing to open? I pulled on the throttle and the flutter didn't open. If I clean it on the car, do I leave the car idling or do I leave the car shut off. Here are some pics. Oh yea, I also checked the throttle to see if it was in limp home mode and it was not.

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Clean with the engine OFF.

You can use something plastic like the shaft of an old toothbrush to ease the plate open if you need to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks! I've got the TB all cleaned up. The car still seems to be running a little rough. There is a slight "shudder" when I rest my foot on the gas pedal...almost indiscernible and the car doesn't seem to have 100% power. I'm going to replace the fuel filter first thing tomorrow. Is there a to check the back pressure on the exhaust in order to rule out a catalytic issue?

Thank you
 

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I was going to suggest a failing converter too. Sometimes they just fail, other times the engine is running poorly and ruins them, and some....times people run junk in the tank that isn't designed for cars with cats and the honeycomb melts buts not entirely so the car still runs, albeit not as it should.

Unbolt your down pipe from the turbo. It's the pipe that's the start of your exhaust system. Then wire the pipe with coat hanger (need metal to avoid any melting) so it's not dragging on the ground. Then go for a quick and careful drive and see if MAX boost comes back or goes up. It'll spool quicker, so don't let that fool you. Technically you need an actual gauge that displays numbers of what your boost is (analogue or digital) to get a more precise idea of what's going.

So, unblot the exhaust pipe where it connects to the turbo (ahead of your cat ;) ) and see if it boosts higher. If it does, the cat is most likely bad, but follow the "optional" below to be 100% certain. Also, try and figure out why it failed, meaning something with the engine might be running bad, but you *should* have a CEL if the engine is running too lean or something. Another test is go for a 20 min drive and get on it a bit. Then quickly pull over and see if the cat is glowing red which is another sign something is wrong.


Optional :
If it does, next step is to buy a 2.25 exhaust stainless steel band clamp (Summit Racing has REALLY good ones) and cut the pipe about 4" inches in front of the cat; meaning closer to the engine side and not the muffler facing side (keep in mind that you need a PERFECTLY straight section to reapply the band clamp so think ahead before you make the cut). Then check the honey comb. It should look like a screen in a window. If it looks like a glob of taffy, then it's shot. Many cats have two separate honey comb sections at the front and rear of the cat with a 3-4" gap between them. Every one that I've ever seen fail, it always the front honey comb that fails first. Many times the rear honey comb is still intact. So you must check the entrance of the cat.

EDIT: Could be a failing turbo, but you'd most likely get some oil burning out the exhaust. Unbolt the intake pipe to turbo, and check the wheel for play. When you unbolt the down pipe, check the exhaust wheel too. Should be NO up/down play. And VERY little to NO in/out play. If there's up/down play, consider it to fail soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I had a shop do an exhaust back pressure test and they said the cats were fine. I also had the turbo checked out and I was told that it looks good. While driving the car home, both check engine lights came on. I pulled into Advance Auto and used their OBD scanner to read the codes. I got 3(!): P0741, P0743, P0705. I guess this would explain why the car is sluggish. Arghh...now to figure out the next step.
Thanks

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, I did a google search on the codes and the 0705 should be the NSS while 0741 and 0743 deal with the torque converter clutch solenoids. Looks like I've got my work cut out for me....! Thanks again for the help!
 
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