[AVguy]

So my left rear brake is dragging and getting quite hot. Not sure when I will get to take a look as the weather here will be kind of sub optimal over this weekend. I thought I would pose the following question as a poll to see what people think is the most likely possibility and after I get it figured out post the answer.

 

[qwikredline]

all three potentially. I would hazard a guess and say piston. Best is a reman replacement. The e brake mechanism in the 9-3 calipers is not serviceable internally...The guides are an issue of course and there is no way for us to be able to pinpoint your issue too many variables. Rock auto or eEuroparts/GO

 

[SwedishTorture]

It could also be a wheel bearing going bad

 

[AVguy]

It could also be a wheel bearing going bad

That is true. Can a poll be modified to add a new choice I wonder?

 

[AVguy]

all three potentially. I would hazard a guess and say piston. Best is a reman replacement. The e brake mechanism in the 9-3 calipers is not serviceable internally...The guides are an issue of course and there is no way for us to be able to pinpoint your issue too many variables. Rock auto or eEuroparts/GO

I was thinking more along the lines of members experiences of what's the highest percentage cause and basically voting on it for fun.

I probably will go for two remanufactured calipers, new pads and rotors. Already have a pair of new rotors that I picked up a while ago from RockAuto cheap (ATE Premium One). I'll hopefully get a look at it this afternoon if it does not rain or snow. I will inspect the wheel bearing as mentioned by SwedishTorture as well, but I can smell that hot brake smell after a short drive and the rotor temp seems hotter than the hub checking with a laser thermometer.

 

[AVguy]

Anybody have experience with the ProParts E-brake cables? They are less than half the cost of the OEM ones. I might replace them while I do this job if I have any doubt about the currently installed ones once I inspect everything.

 

[qwikredline]

I have little confidence in Pro Parts but eEuroparts this past week told me that they have 4800 sku from them and many Saab parts are only available from Proparts.

so whatever you do let us know how it works out.

 

[qwikredline]

Also I am leaning towards ceramic pads as a better option for life/performance/dust/durability. brake p ad technology is changing; for some years we raced with Pagid ceramics ( as the new wave technology) while others relied on the tried and true metallic....

 

[qwikredline]

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/93166942-MFG73-V4304.aspx

I have bought from these folks good prices and service but have not used them lately for whatever reason

 

[qwikredline]

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Products/12843729-MFG793-V4304.aspx

and you are right. 18 and change for proparts and 40 bux for genuine saab....smh

 

[Buc-ee's 9-3]

No mention of the common (overall auto industry-not saab specific) brake hose. Common for a brake hose to fail causing caliper to be held.

Also bracket wear, pads getting caught or stuck in groove.

But I'm voting for caliper.

 

[qwikredline]

how would a failing brake hose cause pressure to stay applied to the caliper piston? I am struggling with a similar issue on my 9-5 ( new caiipers, checked ok when it happened again/separate e brake mechanism not dragging/pins like new etc) and I cant rationalise how a failing hose would cause it to retain sufficient pressure to cause the problem. I am going to replace the hoses as its a much needed maintenance item ...

 

[JBarstad]

It's not that difficult to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper. Basically all you have to do is remove the wheel. Once that is done all you need is a set of needle nose pliers. If you can't get the cable out of the caliper easily I think you found your problem.

That being said, you may now very well have the bad caliper problem from the heat, but I'll hope for the best! It could be the dowel pins, but I think that is probably the least likely.

 

[Buc-ee's 9-3]

how would a failing brake hose cause pressure to stay applied to the caliper piston? I am struggling with a similar issue on my 9-5 ( new caiipers, checked ok when it happened again/separate e brake mechanism not dragging/pins like new etc) and I cant rationalise how a failing hose would cause it to retain sufficient pressure to cause the problem. I am going to replace the hoses as its a much needed maintenance item ...

As far as internal liner failures (non leaking) there are 2 types. Blockages that prevent pressure from reaching caliper, and check-valve forming failures that allow pressure to reach but not release. The second type causes dragging.

 

[AVguy]

I have looked at the car and the problem is indeed the caliper. I can't turn the wheel at all by hand with it jacked up. Parking brake cable seems fine.

I am going to do brakes all around while I'm at it. I have ordered rebuilt rear calipers for both sides, new hoses for the rear calipers, new rotors for the front (Zimmerman Coated), banjo bolt washers, new master cylinder cap as mine is a bit suspect.

I decided to go with all Akebono pads front and rear. I have had Centric ceramics in the back with were pretty good and also good on the dust issue. The fronts have always bothered me with the dust as they must be semi metallic but have decent amount of material left. At this point since I have so much to do I figure it is time to just go for it. It would be nice to go for 314's in the front but not right now. I put low miles on the car so these should last for quite a number of years.

Car will have to sit until all the parts arrive from three different vendors - RockAuto, RMeuropean and thesaabsite. Just going to have a bit of a commuting problem for a week or so.

Thanks for all the suggestions;ol;.

 

[qwikredline]

As far as internal liner failures (non leaking) there are 2 types. Blockages that prevent pressure from reaching caliper, and check-valve forming failures that allow pressure to reach but not release. The second type causes dragging.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O9dh3P3eD2E

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UHOBVWHFuzs

OK I am buying into the check valve type internal failure lol. thanks for the school. I will change the hose first and cut the old one up and see if it can tell me that story.

let u know eventually. As I did not order new hoses with the latest shipment I will see whats available locally ( no I wont I know the answer) lol

 

[Buc-ee's 9-3]

Will either of you do the "apply te pedal and crack the bleeder" test before tearing into the brakes?

 

[AVguy]

Will either of you do the "apply te pedal and crack the bleeder" test before tearing into the brakes?

Yes, I can try that before I take it all apart as I will be doing a flush and bleed anyway. May be a few days before I can get to it though.

 

[BRob2]

What do the two of us who correctly guessed the problem win? I could certainly use a left rear caliper but I don't want your old one.

 

[AVguy]

What do the two of us who correctly guessed the problem win? I could certainly use a left rear caliper but I don't want your old one.

I made no promise of any prize Just knowing you guessed the correct answer should be reward enough.:lol:

Anyway the old calipers have to go back to rockauto as they have a heavy $85 core value each.