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Discussion Starter #1
Well I looked down around where my injectors are and they’re all dirty and two of em are glistening at the base...I have a 2005 Saab 9-3 linear and I’ve replaced countless sensors, cps, map, maf, purge valve , new plugs, new front o2 sensor, new fuel pump. I keep getting p0171 and p0300, I’ve already checked for vacuum leaks(nothings broken) also getting code the car is too lean at idle sometimes(high idle just under 2k rpm) my scanner also read smog checks and Evap leaks; on evap it says not passed. Would leaky injectors throw this evap “leak”. Cars running real rough, long crank, I think smells gas on start up and backfires randomly on load after car is up to temp. Any insight? I’ll probably just go for new injectors but any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Also when I went to get my car straight piped the mechanic showed me my flex pipe and shook out pieces but looked and still held up as a whole but said I needed a new one... could this also be a culprit ? I am catless also and replaced fuel cap and getting new boost sensor today
 

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what tune?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
what tune?
No tune..just replaced bypass valve on top of turbo, running more steady, no backfire when I floor it now but when I try get on the turbo on wot at higher speeds the car cuts back(less or no turbo sound). I just ordered the flex pipe lol. Last codes before I cleared it were p2138 and p0420
 

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P2138 possible grey connector issue under the battery/pedal faulty/worse case bad ECU.
P0420 because of being catless.
Valve (solenoid) on top of the the turbo is the waste gate/boost pressure solenoid.
Nice description of the history, whats the current situation of the car exactly, do not clear any codes, just drive it couple of weeks to make re-generate all the codes.
What scan tool u have ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
It’s called car scanner app from apple store and I got a WiFi obd plug in. The first codes before I started replacing things were throttle pedal code, so I replaced foot pedal sensor, then same code came back, so I replaced throttle body and gasket(which was slightly falling apart) at that time the car was randomly going into limp, high idle but sometimes idle down to normal. No more throttle codes and then started lean codes and misfires so I replaced different sensors related. So now after replacing all that stuff, on a cold start, the car takes like 7 cranks before it starts to catch and slowly catches and starts...after it’s started I can smell gas. After car is up to temp I can restart with like one or 2 cranks of the engine and fires up. The idle sometimes settles after high idle, I think when it’s cold the idle settles to normal. When driving it stumbles and sometimes wants to cut out especially up hills but other times is fine but I still can’t floor it because it might backfire. The next thing I bought is the flex pipe...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
And for the connector under the battery, should I just clean it with electronic spray cleaner? After flex pipe and this connector, I’m thinking ecu...and go to stage 2.... but my other worry is possible injector leak still....not too certain. I could try a fuel pressure test for injectors?? I also replaced fpr already lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I’m at blinking check engine light and car is sputtering when I hit the gas/doesn’t go anywhere and p0300 pops up. Bad injectors? Or could still be bad ecu?
 

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P0300 - Random misfire detected. (Check engine lamp flashes if diagnostics has detected a misfire that is harmful to the catalytic converter.) Uneven running and misfiring.

You're catalytic converter-less, right? So you don't have to worry about that burning up. Might harm your O2 sensors though. However, I don't understand why you'd have 02 sensors if you don't have a cat. Thought the point of O2 sensors was to measure exhaust before the cat and after the cat for the correct air/fuel ratio. Anyway, can your scanner detect which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring?

Your plugs are new, right? How about your ignition coils? Any idea how many miles on them? Do they all have the Saab or Mitsubishi stamp on them or are they the inferior imitation ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yea new plugs; doesn’t NGk come pregapped? I honestly didn’t check them this time but will have to. And no idea about my coil packs..they are all Saab genuine. Wouldn’t coil packs have a specific cyl misfire for each one that went out? Never suspected them cause of this. Also wouldn’t injectors show exact cyl at fault too?

I am catless and no I ordered the flex pipe cause a muffler guy showed me mine, rusty and flakes fell out

Is it possible you're confusing what the cat is versus a part of the downpipe or the muffler? Here's a diagram of your 2005's exhaust: Exhaust & Muffler (B207) (9-3 Parts > Engine > Exhaust System > Exhaust & Muffler (B207))
Would a bad check valve cause this too? I might replace the brake booster one( I was getting p0171 before too)
 

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So where are your O2 sensors? Is O2 sensor 1 right after the turbo wastegate and is O2 sensor 2 just before downpipe? I'm trying to understand what they're screwed into.

And yes, NGK plugs should've come pre-gapped.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So where are your O2 sensors? Is O2 sensor 1 right after the turbo wastegate and is O2 sensor 2 just before downpipe? I'm trying to understand what they're screwed into.

And yes, NGK plugs should've come pre-gapped.
Yea I have stock catalytic converter but it’s gutted out, so o2 sensors are in normal spot, I replaced front o2, not the back one
 

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P0300 - Random misfire detected. (Check engine lamp flashes if diagnostics has detected a misfire that is harmful to the catalytic converter.) Uneven running and misfiring.

You're catalytic converter-less, right? So you don't have to worry about that burning up. Might harm your O2 sensors though. However, I don't understand why you'd have 02 sensors if you don't have a cat. Thought the point of O2 sensors was to measure exhaust before the cat and after the cat for the correct air/fuel ratio. Anyway, can your scanner detect which cylinder(s) is/are misfiring?

Your plugs are new, right? How about your ignition coils? Any idea how many miles on them? Do they all have the Saab or Mitsubishi stamp on them or are they the inferior imitation ones?
Your pre-cat O2 sensors are critical. Your ECU uses them to trim the fuel in closed-loop operation. The post-cat O2 sensors only job is to measure cat efficiency.

Yea new plugs; doesn’t NGk come pregapped? I honestly didn’t check them this time but will have to. And no idea about my coil packs..they are all Saab genuine. Wouldn’t coil packs have a specific cyl misfire for each one that went out? Never suspected them cause of this. Also wouldn’t injectors show exact cyl at fault too?

I am catless and no I ordered the flex pipe cause a muffler guy showed me mine, rusty and flakes fell out


Would a bad check valve cause this too? I might replace the brake booster one( I was getting p0171 before too)
Just because the new plugs are “pre-gapped”, doesn’t mean they are gapped correctly for your engine. Low octane gas can be an issue too.

An exhaust leak can cause the O2 sensors to think you are running too lean, making the car dump fuel at it. If you still think it’s the injectors leaking, the test there would be to put a gauge on the rail. Energize the fuel pump, then turn the key off. If you have a leaking injector, the rail pressure will drop after 15-20 minutes of sitting with the key off I’d guess.
 

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So now u r only left with with misfire and poor drivability.
Without other codes from the ecu i cant say it can be bad based on P0300.
Did u check if u broke the plastic hose that go to the vacuum pump and brake booster ?
Also check all hoses are intact ..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Your pre-cat O2 sensors are critical. Your ECU uses them to trim the fuel in closed-loop operation. The post-cat O2 sensors only job is to measure cat efficiency.


Just because the new plugs are “pre-gapped”, doesn’t mean they are gapped correctly for your engine. Low octane gas can be an issue too.

An exhaust leak can cause the O2 sensors to think you are running too lean, making the car dump fuel at it. If you still think it’s the injectors leaking, the test there would be to put a gauge on the rail. Energize the fuel pump, then turn the key off. If you have a leaking injector, the rail pressure will drop after 15-20 minutes of sitting with the key off I’d guess.
I’ll definitely check my plug gaps tomorrow and shouldn’t be hard then to try the fuel test, thanks
Also still waiting on new flex pipe which is a cheap option for me that I need lol
So now u r only left with with misfire and poor drivability.
Without other codes from the ecu i cant say it can be bad based on P0300.
Did u check if u broke the plastic hose that go to the vacuum pump and brake booster ?
Also check all hoses are intact ..
Yes I have checked all vacuum hoses and none are broken or loose. So overall nothing’s broken on this engine, no exposed wires, I’ve cleaned multiple connectors(one under battery wasn’t dirty or corroded at all) foot pedal connector looks brand new. I put new vacuum pump seal also. The only thing is the flex pipe I was shown was falling apart little by little so I will replace that then maybe coil packs since I have no clue how old they are???
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I often find that the factory gap is not optimal.
What do you think is a good gap set for catless, cai? My last set of plugs I gapped to I think was .28 because I thought I was ready for stage 2. They ran great but I was going into limp mode at that time randomly from other issues. Then I just put in the ngk r’s recently. Oh and I’m at 189k miles and in San Antonio. I’ve had the car just over a year now, until a couple months ago it ran perfectly, hardly any crank time when turning the key? . It first started cutting back when I was at high speeds on the throttle
 
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