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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
thanks! now i know i need an E20 for the fronts.

As far as those links posted above, i have a set of the harbor freights, and IMO, they aren't worth it. The long socket makes it damn near impossible to get the caliper carrier bolts off. It coule be the fact that saap PAINTS the bolts in blue loctite, but whatever the reason, i would advise against deep sockets for the brakes
 

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Gotta be something cheaper than this, no?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SK19...014QQitemZ330140008605QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Thought we needed a 24 for something instead of just a 20... where have I gone wrong? (Don't get me started! :p )

The E-20 at sears for the cheapo brand is still $9+
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00992626000P?keyword=e20

And the set is over $100
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00901292000P?keyword=e20

Still tempted on these; someone who has done the brake job already - wouldn't these overcome some of the "space issues" ?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00991207000P?keyword=e20
 

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Those could be useful but you're going to need one heck of "cheater" bar. I had a 1/2 drive ratchet with a 12" long cheater bar on it and I nearly threw my back out pulling on that set-up. That blue thread locker is just pasted into those threads. I mean MASSIVE amounts of it.

I used a short extension to get past any interference issues. It worked well. I just checked frequently to make sure the socket wasn't misaligned so that I wouldn't strip the bolt heads.

Here's a link to the set I bought...

http://www.geniustools.net/home.html - Go to the products page and punch in TX-409. I paid $43 including shipping for the set.*

*Note - This set include sizes up to E-24 which I think is the biggest needed for anything a DIY'er might do.



Picture copied from Genius Tools website
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
clyde733 said:
Gotta be something cheaper than this, no?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SK19761-13-Piece-Female-E-Torx-Socket-Set-1-4-3-8-1-2in_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ43993QQihZ014QQitemZ330140008605QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

Thought we needed a 24 for something instead of just a 20... where have I gone wrong? (Don't get me started! :p )

The E-20 at sears for the cheapo brand is still $9+
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00992626000P?keyword=e20

And the set is over $100
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00901292000P?keyword=e20

Still tempted on these; someone who has done the brake job already - wouldn't these overcome some of the "space issues" ?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00991207000P?keyword=e20

Clyde, check the set that i got earlier in this thread. It only goes up to E18 (good for rears), but it has all other sizes you need below that. That expensive SK set, is worth it. You really need a high quality set for the rediculous amounts of blue loctite that are on the bolts. :roll:

Me, I'm just going to buy an E20 when i get around to the fronts, probably just like the one you linked.

As far as those ratchets are concerned, I have never used them, and I don't know how long the are for leverage. If you buy them, you may need a cheater bar to put on the end of it. A cheape bar at Lowes or HD should do the trick

GL!
 

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vf171 said:
Those could be useful but you're going to need one heck of "cheater" bar. I had a 1/2 drive ratchet with a 12" long cheater bar on it and I nearly threw my back out pulling on that set-up. That blue thread locker is just pasted into those threads. I mean MASSIVE amounts of it.

Here's a link to the set I bought...

http://www.geniustools.net/home.html - Go to the products page and punch in TX-409. I paid $43 including shipping for the set.*
Thanks for that link. Price sounds reasonable.

Buy a section of steel pipe to slide over your 12" breaker bar. I have used pipe as long as 8' slid over an 8" 3/8 ratchet handle to break suspension bolts. I've only cracked a handful of sockets over the years. I currently have an 18" breaker bar (1/2") and a 24" section of 1" pipe for the "tough nuts."
 

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ctrlz said:
Thanks for that link. Price sounds reasonable.

Buy a section of steel pipe to slide over your 12" breaker bar. I have used pipe as long as 8' slid over an 8" 3/8 ratchet handle to break suspension bolts. I've only cracked a handful of sockets over the years. I currently have an 18" breaker bar (1/2") and a 24" section of 1" pipe for the "tough nuts."
I was a maintenance tech for 3 years and worked on 2500 ton mech. & hyd. presses. Some stood over 60' tall and all of them had nuts that required wrenches similar to what you'd see Fred Flintsone using, literally. :cheesy: One required 2 men to lift it!

I have PLENTY of cheater pipes :cheesy: they even have grooves cut in the ends for grip. I just don't like having to use them on my CAR!
 

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This thread is now back from the dead.

The FAQ and How-To sections of the site list the E-18 and the E-24 as the two size E-Torx that one needs to change the brakes. http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83969

Yet in this thread everyone referred to the E-20.

If it makes a difference I have a 2004 9-3 Arc, as opposed to that FAQ which was an '03 Vector.

Well before I take everything apart tomorrow, is there any easy way for me to tell? Drove all over town today looking for a stinking E-20 or E-24 and can't find one - don't want to find one online only to get the wrong one when I go to whatever store it is.

Also, anyone have any updated locations? The guys at autozone and Sears both looked at me like I was stupid when I asked for the E-20 / E-24 - they went up to E-18 but no more.

//edit//

I think I'm going to go this route:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0007GGUBA/poolgap-20?dev-t=D3E49ECS9E0KO%26camp=2025%26link_code=xm2
The brand was highly recommended above, and I get to deal with Amazon.com instead of an eBay seller (No offense to any of you that sell on eBay, but I'd take Amazon.com customer service any day of the week...)
If anyone knows a good reason why the two of us should not be married in holy Tool-imony, speak now or forever I would hold this piece (these pieces)! :p

//edit//

TIA - :cool:
 

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I would just get the below set, as it contains the E-20 and the E-24, but I can't order from that website... it just takes me to an informational page, not an order page, unless I am missing something... Wouldn't be the first time :roll:

//edit//

I think I'm going to go this route:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0007GGUBA/poolgap-20?dev-t=D3E49ECS9E0KO%26camp=2025%26link_code=xm2
The brand was highly recommended above, and I get to deal with Amazon.com instead of an eBay seller (No offense to any of you that sell on eBay, but I'd take Amazon.com customer service any day of the week...)
If anyone knows a good reason why the two of us should not be married in holy Tool-imony, speak now or forever I would hold this piece (these pieces)! :p

//edit//


vf171 said:
Those could be useful but you're going to need one heck of "cheater" bar. I had a 1/2 drive ratchet with a 12" long cheater bar on it and I nearly threw my back out pulling on that set-up. That blue thread locker is just pasted into those threads. I mean MASSIVE amounts of it.

I used a short extension to get past any interference issues. It worked well. I just checked frequently to make sure the socket wasn't misaligned so that I wouldn't strip the bolt heads.

Here's a link to the set I bought...

http://www.geniustools.net/home.html - Go to the products page and punch in TX-409. I paid $43 including shipping for the set.*

*Note - This set include sizes up to E-24 which I think is the biggest needed for anything a DIY'er might do.



Picture copied from Genius Tools website
 

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Got the SK tools from Amazon.com - good quality, fast shipping, and was able to complete the rears almost hassle-free today! There are some errors in the FAQ on the brake pad/rotor changing... or my brakes are just "special". But the 17mm for the pistons was just dead-****-wrong, as they were really 7mm allen wrench sized... Anyhow - aside from the instructions in the FAQ being off for an '04 ARC (Maybe the "ARC" is the issue?), things went smoothly on the rears. The fronts - I got the tires off and was just too tired, and they too looked markedly different than the diagrams and photos here. I'll give them a go some day this week. The rears are behaving well - no squeaking, although this is still too soon for me to call it a success ;)
 

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Get a 'heating tool' of some sort (blowtorch) and heat that sucker up. The thread locker comes pasty when it gets really hot.
 

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I found and bought these off eBay. It includes E-18, E-20, E-24, and a bunch of smaller sockets. At under $25 shipped, it was the cheapest I ran across. They still have 7 available.
 

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Nice find, I just bought a set also. Hope they don't crumble in use!!!:cheesy: For us shade tree guys they should be fine.
 

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Nice find, I just bought a set also. Hope they don't crumble in use!!!:cheesy: For us shade tree guys they should be fine.
They seem to be pretty durable. I used both the E-18 and E-20 while replacing the rear pads/rotors. I didn't realize that you don't need to remove the caliper carrier and wound up loosening one of the suspension connections with the E-20 socket and my impact wrench in order to get some clearance on the top E-18 bolt, and it held up fine. I've broken normal sockets (not ones specifically designed for impact wrenches) when used with my impact wrench so this bodes well for these these cheap eBay sockets...
 
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