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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got my new Koni Yellows mostly installed today. I'm having trouble torquing the front struts and I have a couple of questions.

1. Is there a good tool to use for torquing them? With the OEM struts I was able to put weight on them and I could torque them without the shaft spinning. I tried this with the Konis and the shaft just spins and it tore the lock washer up that came with them.

2. What is the proper torque spec for them. The instructions that came with the Konis showed something like 32 lb ft but the 9-3 manual shows 78 lb ft. Which one is correct?
 

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Are you talking about the top nut? I had the same problem. It's an odd sized nut, I think it was something like 1". I did it the old fashioned way with some large adjustable pliers to crank and a hex key holding the shaft. It ripped my hands up too but I got it pretty snug. When I was redoing my bathrooms I had to buy these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Shower-Valve-Wrench-Set-UWP0001J/204284870

Turns out, one of these fits perfectly on the nut and since it's completely hollow you can use an extension, ratchet, and a hex bit to hold the shaft in place. You can't thread the pin you use to crank the shower valve wrench through both holes, but you can get it through one.

Can't remember what torque spec is, but it's got to be over or close to 100 ft/lbs.
 

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Are you talking about the top nut? I had the same problem. It's an odd sized nut, I think it was something like 1". I did it the old fashioned way with some large adjustable pliers to crank and a hex key holding the shaft. It ripped my hands up too but I got it pretty snug. When I was redoing my bathrooms I had to buy these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Shower-Valve-Wrench-Set-UWP0001J/204284870

Turns out, one of these fits perfectly on the nut and since it's completely hollow you can use an extension, ratchet, and a hex bit to hold the shaft in place. You can't thread the pin you use to crank the shower valve wrench through both holes, but you can get it through one.

Can't remember what torque spec is, but it's got to be over or close to 100 ft/lbs.
good idea Diggs. I use the specific service tool for the job but it doesnt help for an adjustable koni as the adjuster is in the middle of the strut. So I wrap the shaft with an oil filter strap wrench and do it that way. Using vice grips at the top of the shaft is sort of okay the shaft doesnt go down that far if the shaft gets hurt but I hate to do it that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you talking about the top nut? I had the same problem. It's an odd sized nut, I think it was something like 1". I did it the old fashioned way with some large adjustable pliers to crank and a hex key holding the shaft. It ripped my hands up too but I got it pretty snug. When I was redoing my bathrooms I had to buy these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Shower-Valve-Wrench-Set-UWP0001J/204284870

Turns out, one of these fits perfectly on the nut and since it's completely hollow you can use an extension, ratchet, and a hex bit to hold the shaft in place. You can't thread the pin you use to crank the shower valve wrench through both holes, but you can get it through one.

Can't remember what torque spec is, but it's got to be over or close to 100 ft/lbs.
Yes the top nut. I kinda rigged up a deal where i could put vice grips on a socket and slide a smaller extension through middle to hold onto the top of the strut tube but I can't use a torque wrench that way. I may have to try those.
 

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Yes the top nut. I kinda rigged up a deal where i could put vice grips on a socket and slide a smaller extension through middle to hold onto the top of the strut tube but I can't use a torque wrench that way. I may have to try those.
just use red loctite and get it decently tight with a 3/8 socket and wrench you wont over tighten it and it wont come loose. Most folks overtighten the top nut anyway. I wonder if that helps fail the strut mount lol.
 

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Is that per Saab's service manual or Koni's instructions?
not the saab manual. I cant open my dumbass wiss due to windows bs. so i gave it up. typical strut torque for GM struts is 52 ft lbs. Typical quoted google torque for Saab is 74 ft lbs. Thats a lot considering Koni supply a cheap *** unplated grade 5 nut with a zinc plated lockwasher that will crumble and break... I discard the lock washer, and either use an automotive flange "stover" or "K " mechanical lock nut with loctite and aforesaid torque. Some GM delta products (saturn) use a mechanical lock nut, and Cobalt use a nyloc nut. If you do it with an air gun then its prolly 75-150 ft lbs or more depending how aggressive you are with the air gun hammering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
not the saab manual. I cant open my dumbass wiss due to windows bs. so i gave it up. typical strut torque for GM struts is 52 ft lbs. Typical quoted google torque for Saab is 74 ft lbs. Thats a lot considering Koni supply a cheap *** unplated grade 5 nut with a zinc plated lockwasher that will crumble and break... I discard the lock washer, and either use an automotive flange "stover" or "K " mechanical lock nut with loctite and aforesaid torque. Some GM delta products (saturn) use a mechanical lock nut, and Cobalt use a nyloc nut. If you do it with an air gun then its prolly 75-150 ft lbs or more depending how aggressive you are with the air gun hammering.
Thanks for the info. The provided nut and washer did seem to be pretty poor quality.
 

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Thanks for the info. The provided nut and washer did seem to be pretty poor quality.
you should see the rust. I just saved a set of Konis the rust was horrible the nut and lockwasher were junk; the bottom allen bolt was no better. The Koni folks are from Holland they dont know winter road salt (or care I suppose)
 

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Well, I guess mine aren't going anywhere. :cool:

Just checked them the other day and there are the same number of threads showing as when I did it a few years ago.
 

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I'm actually in the middle of replacing my springs all around. With out an impact wrench its almost impossible to remove the top strut mount nut it seems.

Anyone got any tips or advice on how to remove? Much obliged.
 

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if it was me and I could not find an electric impact guy to buy rent steal borrow I would go to a shop and ask a tech to break it loose for ten bucks and then spin it back on so you can drive home and finish the job.

its a pita. I almost always impact them loose with the car still on the ground right away. If that doesnt do it I know its going to be a long day. SAAB have a top strut cover so I assume that means with care the strut nuts should not corrode in place.

faint hope? good luck

ps I know a guy in NJ who is a Cobalt fiend could help you out. PM me if you get stuck.
 

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I have access to a weak car battery driven kawasaki impact gun. The blokes around here wouldn't impact gun the top nut. I'll give it a try at my local gas station.
 

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dont know. possibly. If not, go to Fastenal get a 8.8 or 10 .9 mechanical locking nut with a flange on it and ditch the silly lock washer. Or just a flange nut and use red loctite....
 

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dont know. possibly. If not, go to Fastenal get a 8.8 or 10 .9 mechanical locking nut with a flange on it and ditch the silly lock washer. Or just a flange nut and use red loctite....
Sweet.

Also, I was looking at the rear konis -- the instructions umm look weird -- how exactly do you adjust them? The top just kept spinning for me, or do you have to hold the shaft and then spin the top part?
 

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I place the shock bottom end down on a piece of wood. Helper holds the bottom eye steady with a rod through it then press down on the top and twist until you feel it engage the adjuster. Keep holding down don't let up until it stops rotating Clockwise full stiff counter clock full soft. Six turns in all. I set at three to start. That's the sweet doing curve. Hope this helps
 

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I'm not sure why people are having so much trouble with this? I did mine this morning and it took me a little under 4 hours to do all four corners start to finish. I used an electric impact gun to get the top nut off, and the bottom mounting bolts, but other than that, just hand tools. I live in New England, so it's not like there was no rust or anything. 131k on my car and it's a daily driver all year round. The struts were JUNK, the passenger front spring was broken, and one of the rears was rusted really bad. Changed out the strut bearings, vogtland 40mm springs and koni yellows...so far so good!


If you're replacing the struts, just take the whole assembly off the car and put a set of good(buy new ones if you have to) vice grips on the shaft. You should be able to get just enough grip on it to get the bolt free.
 
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