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Discussion Starter #1
Couldn't find anything definative about this in search so here goes:

1)Is there a table or formula for working out the dampers stiffness compared to the originals from the number of turns?

2)Are there any "rules of thumb" for setting the damping? e.g. the rear should always be stiff by x number of turns etc..

Thanks
 

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I think a lot of this depends on your driving style, roads, wheels, tires, etc..
Start full stiff and work your way softer.
 

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Its all about how you want the car to feel. I like my fwd cars to be as stiff in the rear as posible as I like my cars to be a little posive or over-steer a little.

What is great about adjustable is you can set them up for you're driving style. Start in the middle and then try some different settings, soft to full firm all the way around and note the differences, then try some things in front to rear like stiffer in the rear and softer in the front.

I found out drag racing that I could get much better traction with it full firm in the rear and almost full soft in the front. This really helped!

A few guys I know like it almost full firm in the rear and fairly soft in the front. Try things out and find the place that you like;)

I think they are a full two turns for adjustment, so then you can start out one turn back from full firm and begin there.

John
 

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I think full soft is nearest to stock so I would start from there. I wouldn't go for large differences between front and rear as you could realy upset the balance of the car in a turn or under hard braking. The progression is quite noticable and even 1/2 a turn is quite significant - I'd up them equaly a few notches at a time ( there are no actual clicks but you can visualy rotate them by the notches on the adjuster) It takes a while to get used to the settings on different surfaces and under different driving speeds so be prepared to take a while to dial them in. In the end though it's a compromise between performance and comfort. I'd love them to have electronic adjusters so I could change them as I travel between M-Way/ A roads and urban streets.
 

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That is pretty much what I said, start in the middle and adjust all 4 and then if you want do some front to rear adjusting. I like it to be positive and have the rear more firm than the front and of all 3 of my buddies that do some aggressive twisty driving, this is the combo that all 3 of us seemed to like.

Just use a little common sense and make small adjustments.

John
 

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hit something like a piece of angle iron in the road a couple weeks ago, made a big bang and popped the rear tyre :evil:

A few weeks later and the spring on that same corner has now broken :roll:

So the front strut bearings are now making a clunk and the boots have split into confetti.

The good news is that the Koni kit with adjustable dampers and springs is down to an almost reasonable £375 :D


[Just been under squirting all the bolts with plusgas in readyness. Car looks like a lopsided drunken duck ;oops: ]
 

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Think carfully about this choice - Koni springs are very low and there's precious little suspension travel in these cars to start with. Ground clearance will be a big issue.The shocks are good but remember that the adjustment is only for rebound and not compression and I have found that anything away from full soft compromises handling and comfort. Have you looked at other options?
 

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I think the springs are higher than the three and a half lowered springs I have already. They were on the car whan I got it and are VERY low. e.g tops of rear 16" tyres are just above the wheel arch line at the top edge.

Other options are all lots more expensive. Bilsteins ouch!

Stockers and stock shocks come in cheaper, but not by that much.

EDIT:- Silver one is mine, other is a stocker. Guessing about 40~50mm drop. Too much!
 

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Shirozina measured the distance from the road to the top of each wheel arch (good idea mate :cool: ).

Mine is at 620mm on standard pie-dish 3-spoke 16" rims and 205/55 tyres.

Anyone know what the stock height is, or has a tape measure to hand ?
 

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I would gladly pay the price for bilstein over koni.
adjustable or not. actually... I did.

When the KYB's blow in the Eclipse, they'll be bilstein as well.
I'm actually VERY excited!

If the Rear is stiffer than the front... you'll get less under-steer. most people get a leg-up on this by getting the larger ASB's, and then tune "shocks" from there.
(closer to starting @ Zero than -X)
 

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I don't know about that, I am very happy with my Koni's on my ng900 with Voxtland springs and my 9k aero with cut springs and Koni shocks... The ride is awesome and with the sas sway bars, it corners like its on rails...

John
 

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Does anyone have the stock height from road to top of wheelarch please? :)
 

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Back springs are now done :D

Old ones look like those horrible Intrax ones with 3 binded coils at the top. Very low and very rough.

New Lesjofors ones are quite a bit longer and still quoted at -35mm :eek:

Pity the Suzuki Vitara rear dampers that came in the kit don't quite fit :roll: Do those when the proper ones get delivered :evil:
 

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hunt.dogshome said:
Back springs are now done :D

Old ones look like those horrible Intrax ones with 3 binded coils at the top. Very low and very rough.

New Lesjofors ones are quite a bit longer and still quoted at -35mm :eek:

Pity the Suzuki Vitara rear dampers that came in the kit don't quite fit :roll: Do those when the proper ones get delivered :evil:
The backs aren't too bad, the fronts though.... I hate them.
 

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i have a full koni kit on my 9-3 (springs and shocks) and i have no clearnce problems and i have a evo front splitter on and that makes it look dead low but no problems.my shocks are set up full hard on back and half stiff on front and it huggs them corneres like there is no 2morrow great for the back roads that is all around where i live lol...
 

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I have some more info on koni shock settings - apparently increasing the rebound stiffness on the rear effects the turn-in at the front making it sharper. When entering a turn the inside rear directlty effects the outside front. If you think about how the weight is shifted it makes sense - it restricts the weight transfer to the outside front. I've never run the rears stiffer than the front as I'm already running a massive 1" rear ARB and I didn't want any oversteer. I may try a 1/4 turn. I'm also going to experiment with tyre pressure as well after reading on http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg2.html that a good setting for any tyre is to take the maximum pressure marked on the tyre and subtract 10%. On my ZZ3' this is a quite high 39psi - we will see?
 

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Shirozina said:
I have some more info on koni shock settings - apparently increasing the rebound stiffness on the rear effects the turn-in at the front making it sharper. When entering a turn the inside rear directlty effects the outside front. If you think about how the weight is shifted it makes sense - it restricts the weight transfer to the outside front. I've never run the rears stiffer than the front as I'm already running a massive 1" rear ARB and I didn't want any oversteer. I may try a 1/4 turn. I'm also going to experiment with tyre pressure as well after reading on http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg2.html that a good setting for any tyre is to take the maximum pressure marked on the tyre and subtract 10%. On my ZZ3' this is a quite high 39psi - we will see?
Great link Shirozina

al
 

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I tweaked up the rear shocks today to 3 notches up from full soft to see if it indeed did have the effect I had read about. Sure enough the turn in is sharper and the front of the car stays flatter. Thinking about it more it does make total sense - if the shocks only can be made stiffer in the rebound then to control weight transfer you have to adjust the opposite corner. Next I'll try the full pressure minus 10% method of tyre pressure but I have a feeling that 39psi may be a little uncomfortable for London roads.
 

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Lowering springs (NOT!)

Right -35mm Koni kit all on. Spot the difference:-
 

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After some twiddling and whizzing around the slightly rough roads around Buxton:-

1/2 turn from soft on the back.
3/4 turn from soft on the front.

This seems to give the best rebound damping i.e. hitting a bump mid-corner gets it back in track almost seamlessly.

Anything over 3/4 turn at the back makes it skitter. Too harsh. Probably good for dragging and smooth tarmac, but not for absorbing bumps. After all, we need as much rubber on the road in a corner as possible; all the time.

It sticks like glue now :D
 
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