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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy,

I'm looking to perform a kickdown cable adjustment, because it looks to be highly out of spec (that, and my 2-3 shift is jarring if I don't have the throttle open).

I see that little compression nut or whatever the hell you'd call it (not the double-nut setup on the cable housing, I'm talking about the small gray clip thing that appears to be clamped directly to the cable) on the cable, but I can't for the life of me see how I would go about moving it around at all.

So, questions:

1. How is this thing attached?
2. Do I need something special to loosen it so I can move it?
3. Is it really necessary to have on, i.e. can I just cut the bugger off with a Dremel and be done with it?
4. Any other tips on this I'm missing? Haynes is severly lacking on detail.

Much obliged!
 

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every one knows that cable as the kick down cable but that term is inaccurate as it is more than that, it also controls the hydrolic pressure in the box so as the pedal is pressed this acts on the cable and inturn raises the pressure, the cripped bit on the cable is there for 2 reasons, the first is to keep the cable connected to the gearbox properly if its not connected to the throttle the second is to keep the cable in the set position after the pressure has been set, to set the cable you need to hold the throttle fully open and then messure 33mm from the end of the outer cable to the link on the throttle lever
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, but I'm looking for more specifics on exactly how to loosen the nut, and failing that whether or not I can just cut the thing off. Reason is, on mine I am having trouble finding where the seam in the nut is (it's gotta be real tiny), and when I do find it I'm thinking that it will be pretty difficult to jam a screwdriver in there to loosen it up, ergo my thoughts on just trying to cut it off or something.

Oh, and Haynes says it's 39mm... Is it really 33mm?
 

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http://www.peugeot605.eu/letoltes/4hp18.pdf

I attempted following this procedure. I adjusted the gap to 2mm with the throttle closed. However, there does not seem to be a point when the "kickdown" engages, as these instructions specify.

It is connected directly to the throttle, and it's cable is pulled throughout the throttle range. It's not part of an assembly that only engages after a certain amount of throttle is applied.

At WOT, I am measuring over 44mm between the crimp and the cable housing. If I try to get this down to 39mm, the crimp bottoms out on the housing when throttle returns to closed.

Either i'm reading the wrong series of instructions, or the car was way out of calibration before I removed the cable to do my engine work?
 

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What are the problematic symptoms you are experiencing and what year is your vehicle. The cable has at least 3 different kinds of hook ups. The cable basically is pulled out of the trans as you give the car gas to help the trans and engine run at the same speed. My 89 no turbo hooks up different than my 93 turbo and the 92 n- t is different .
 

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It's shifting through the gears too quickly when at WOT. Normal driving is fine.


I have a 94 CS Turbo. The cable comes up vertically from underneath the throttle linkage. I had to remove it when I took off the head, and had I known exactly what I was doing, I probably would have marked it's position before tear down.
 

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The two pictures attached show the measurements at both throttle closed and wide open (from pedal, not limit on the linkage)

With the gap at 'closed' set to 2mm, the reading at WOT is 45mm +/-.

The only measurements I've read are 39mm or 33mm.

The crimp does not appear to have moved. However, It does appear from the clean spot on the cable casing that it was previously attached about 6-8mm further down than I currently have it. If I matched up these marks and put it back to where it was previously (I assume) then my gap with the throttle closed would be 8-10mm (instead of the spec 2mm). And the gap at WOT would be around 55mm. Something isn't adding up here.
 

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It is just like setting a manual choke. There is an outer shell and an inner cable. The goal is to provide enough room for the inner cable to travel “at least” the desired distance, perhaps 39mm. The inner cable is coiled in the trans and pulls in and out, but the inner cable must come from a resting position and not have any drag on throttle body, perhaps 2mm-- or drag inside the trans or the cable will pull on the trans making it open up. The setting of the outside cable is there to make sure the cable has enough room to travel and hold that position. At least that is how I set mine on my 89 and it works. Does your trans upshift?

 

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From what I've read the cable regulates a valve which in turn regulates pressure inside the transmission. How much this relates to up-shifting and regular shifting I am not sure.

The above measurements were made after my adjustments. I have not driven it since this most recent adjustment either. But I'm assuming since I'm seeing a difference of over 39mm that I'm on the good side of error? As long as it's not opening too far?
 

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I think you are fine. The trans cable is most likely longer than the parameters of an full open throttle cable at the setting of + or – 36 to 39mm, so it would not pull it too far, and it upshifts. If you are concerned, you could with the engine off open throttle fully and grab the trans cable and see how much play is left.
 
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