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2008 Saab 9-3 Aero FWD 6MT
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If the key will turn to the "On" Position, you can try jumping the starter at the relay. Look up how to do this using the search function. If it still doesn't turn the starter, you either have a bad neutral safety/clutch switch or a break in the wiring somewhere (aside from a faulty starter or bad battery).
If the key will not turn to the on position, you can manually disengage the ignition lock with a small piece of bent wire. Look up specifics using the search function. When you get the lock disengaged, if a bunch of errors pop up once the key is turned to the on position, DO NOT TRY TO START THE CAR. No signal is being supplied to the ECU from the CANBUS in the CIM. Replace the CIM and continue.
If it starts after CIM replacement, great.
If not, make sure the errors the popped up in the "On" position have disappeared
If not, it's time to hand it over to someone to track down an ECU/wiring problem.
If the errors, do go away, you can try starting the car from the ignition switch
If it starts, drive it for 30 mins and make sure the steering lock re-engages when shut down.
If it doesn't start, try jumping from the starter relay, make sure the key is in the "On" position before trying. If this works, and you have checked the neutral safety/clutch switch and wiring from the fuse box to the ECU, it's time for a new ECU. If you can only start the car by jumping the relay, and every wire and switch to and from the relay is good, then it's likely Pin 35 on the ECU has died. This pin supplies the ground signal that you are artificially creating by jumping the relay. I'll say it again for good measure, you can only make this assumption when you have checked continuity in the wiring from the relay to the ignition switch, which includes the switch in the middle, and also checked the wiring leading back to the ECU and everything checks out. If you have questions, you can PM me or post here.
 

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I purchased a sim with matching fob,the fob will work correctly on doors etc. when i insert fob i hear a chime and the display will light up, but with no data displayed and i can't turn the fob off of the lock position. I removed icm and cleaned it and no changes,when I took the icm apart i saw an electrical latch/solenoid that has two prongs i wanted to test that out 12 volt? THANKS by the way i just ordered a tech 2 and i guess i have to marry this to something, will this sollve my problem or is it the icm solenoid?
 

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But what if that solenoid in the ism is faulty, i ordered a rebuild kit but it doesn't come with solenoid
THANKS want to test it 12 volt on the 2 pins?The solenoid locks the fobs in the lock position.
2003 saab sedan
 

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Registered
2008 Saab 9-3 Aero FWD 6MT
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321 Posts
I purchased a sim with matching fob,the fob will work correctly on doors etc. when i insert fob i hear a chime and the display will light up, but with no data displayed and i can't turn the fob off of the lock position. I removed icm and cleaned it and no changes,when I took the icm apart i saw an electrical latch/solenoid that has two prongs i wanted to test that out 12 volt? THANKS by the way i just ordered a tech 2 and i guess i have to marry this to something, will this sollve my problem or is it the icm solenoid?
As I said in the post, you can manually unlock the ignition switch. If the solenoid won't function properly AFTER you get the problem diagnosed, its probably in your best interest to just get a new ISM. The ISM lock solenoid malfunctioning WILL NOT cause anything but the stuck key, it will not cause a no start, and it will not keep the car from cranking. Th ISM is plug and play, no programming necessary. I also recommend you do more reading on here using the search function. Many of the questions you are asking have been answered many times.
 

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2008 Saab 9-3 Aero FWD 6MT
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321 Posts
But what if that solenoid in the ism is faulty, i ordered a rebuild kit but it doesn't come with solenoid
THANKS want to test it 12 volt on the 2 pins?The solenoid locks the fobs in the lock position.
2003 saab sedan
Its not common for the solenoid to fail, if it does, you need a whole new ignition switch, not just the rebuild kit. If you are asking how to test the solenoid, you can remove the switch from the car and apply a 12V power source to the two pins, it should click/move.
 

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Its not common for the solenoid to fail, if it does, you need a whole new ignition switch, not just the rebuild kit. If you are asking how to test the solenoid, you can remove the switch from the car and apply a 12V power source to the two pins, it should click/move.
Hello .. is this what you call the "Selenoid" ? Should it be able to turn completely when unplugged ? (because mine was not turning when I tried to get it to move with my hand.
Could it be the issue why my Key won't turn past the lock position ?


White Light Gesture Font Electrical wiring
 
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