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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last week after visiting my mom I went into my Saab 93 (manual gear) to drive home, and after inserting the key I could not turn it. The key goes in and out without no problem, but turning the darn thing is impossible (it’s stuck in LOCKED). I have read some other post on different Saab forums, and the solution seems to be just to keep wiggle and shaking it until the key can be turned. I have done so for a couple of hours already but with no results. I even ordered a new lock cylinder from my local (former) Saab dealship, it cost 282$. But I can’t turn the key to the OFF position so I can take the old one out. I’m starting to lose hope with the wiggling and I’m thinking I have to remove the old cylinder with force (somehow). Another thing is that the top part of the lock wont push down either, and it has to for me to be able to turn the key around?
282502

The top part wont go down when inserting the key

Any tips? Or should I consider taking it to the shop?
 

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You could try lubing it (cleaning it out) with something like WD40 based upon the photo you got some gunk there. chances are your key is worn beyond belief, thats not good, but inserting it and slightly lifting while turning may be enough to get the wafers aligned. You should get another key blank right away or its gonna cost you time and big aggravation, or some guy will offer you $10 CAD for the car in its immobile condition. I've had it happen and just getting the new key will need to be programed with a tech2 so you'll need that key for a few more turns at least. Good luck.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You could try lubing it (cleaning it out) with something like WD40 based upon the photo you got some gunk there. chances are your key is worn beyond belief, thats not good, but inserting it and slightly lifting while turning may be enough to get the wafers aligned. You should get another key blank right away or its gonna cost you time and big aggravation, or some guy will offer you $10 CAD for the car in its immobile condition. I've had it happen and just getting the new key will need to be programed with a tech2 so you'll need that key for a few more turns at least. Good luck.
I have already used WD40, it did not help much. They key is pretty dirty when taking it out after applying WD40. The key still works well in the passanger side cylinder and the trunk cylinder. My Saab has only been driven 130 000 KM (80778miles) so I hope that the key is not that worn out. I can post a picture of it (I only have one). I think maybe using a can of compressed air might help get some gunk out of the cylinder, if there is any. Thanks for the tips! 😉
 

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You can contact local Saab dealer and they can order new key with cut (ORIO needs VIN or key code).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You can contact local Saab dealer and they can order new key with cut (ORIO needs VIN or key code)
That is a possibility. Too bad that the ORIO website is so difficult to navigate (creating an account for example). My “local” dealer (1 hour from here) charges 280$ for one key, and they need the car at their place to program it. The local locksmith charges 15$ to make a copy of my existing key. But I don’t think the key is the problem since it still works fine on the passanger side and trunk.
 

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Key can work with those locks, because nobody uses them regularly.
What I see your pics is your key is quite worn, it do not have sharp edges.

If you make copy of existing key, copy is as worn as original.

I can order and send key to you. I need VIN for cut. I am Saab dealer.
Key is "all-in-1" (remote integrated to key) and price is 170e (inc shipping to Norway).
Remember that you need TECH2 for marry key to your car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Key can work with those locks, because nobody uses them regularly.
What I see your pics is your key is quite worn, it do not have sharp edges.

If you make copy of existing key, copy is as worn as original.

I can order and send key to you. I need VIN for cut. I am Saab dealer.
Key is "all-in-1" (remote integrated to key) and price is 170e (inc shipping to Norway).
Remember that you need TECH2 for marry key to your car.
I might consider ordering a new key 😉 Can I use it without having to code it? Use it together with my old one?
 

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c900 vert, 04 9-5 5pd wagon, 10 9-5 aero
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Being that is a manual, have you tried moving the shifter around and turning the key. It could be the reverse lock out messing with you.
I'd try moving the shifter around while attempting the key with the clutch down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Being that is a manual, have you tried moving the shifter around and turning the key. It could be the reverse lock out messing with you.
I'd try moving the shifter around while attempting the key with the clutch down.
I have tried, it’s stuck in reverse. I’m also afraid to apply too much pressure. I’m going to take another hour with key wiggling and jiggling now and hope I’m lucky this time. If not I’m bringing out the Dewalt tomorrow and drilling the cylinder out.
 

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I was reading your original post again is it stuck in the ACC position? if so is it allowing the key fully insert? maybe if it's not to fully inserted maybe it's not aligning the wafers to turn the cylinder.

or hell just give it good thumping on hits head. two things fix a car a wrench & a hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was reading your original post again is it stuck in the ACC position? if so is it allowing the key fully insert? maybe if it's not to fully inserted maybe it's not aligning the wafers to turn the cylinder.

or hell just give it good thumping on hits head. two things fix a car a wrench & a hammer.
It’s stuck in LOCKED, and I can take key in and out. I can insert it all the way in. It’s my only key so I’m afraid to use too much force on it.
 

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I agree with Mimi that cutting a new to your existing will produce an equally worn key , but surely at $15 as opposed the Options its worth a gamble ? Keep trying with some prssure on gear shift it does sound like reverse lockout may be impacting .
 

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I have already used WD40, it did not help much. They key is pretty dirty when taking it out after applying WD40. The key still works well in the passanger side cylinder and the trunk cylinder. My Saab has only been driven 130 000 KM (80778miles) so I hope that the key is not that worn out. I can post a picture of it (I only have one). I think maybe using a can of compressed air might help get some gunk out of the cylinder, if there is any. Thanks for the tips! 😉
You're playing with fire having only one key. If you lose that one, you have a lot of work and money ahead to replace the locks and security electronics in the car to get it going again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah I think ordering a new key is a wise choice, and maybe get a cheaper copy of the new one. I can tape my old one next to the ignition to make the chip work.
 

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Yeah I think ordering a new key is a wise choice, and maybe get a cheaper copy of the new one. I can tape my old one next to the ignition to make the chip work.
Remember the key's electronics have to be recognized by the car's, so if you lose the electronics-containing one and just have a dumb one left, you would be in the same boat. You can buy used electronics and have a new blade made from your car's VIN, then code the key to the car with a Tech 2.
 

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SAAB 900S, 1997, 2L,manual.
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This might be a mechanical problem with the lock cylinder.
There is a small hook in the very top of the cylinder, that prevents it from being pushed down. When worn, it will not release. This hook is located perpendicular to the left side of the key at the locked position (or perhaps a little further forward). If this hook does not open by inserting the key and turn it, it may get some help by pressing a piece of metal (0.3-0.4 mm) into the circular gap between the cylinder and the housing at this place, while moving the key.
I removed this hook on my NG900, 1997. at 190 k. km.

If this does not work, then this is probably where you should start drilling.

There is also a possibility that the reverse locking system is the cause for yuor issue..
 
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