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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching the forum and trying to figure out what it might be but I am not having much luck.

It all started last Tuesday on my way to work. I was sitting in traffic and my gauges all froze, ABS light, Traction Control Light, Brake Light, AC quit working and Check Engine light all came on. It never died or went into limp mode. I kept driving it to work, and eventually all the warning lights except check engine light went off, AC started working again, and the SID said "Traction control failure. Contact Service". I finished driving to work and parked the car. I keep a cheap OBD scanner in the car, so I tried to run the codes but it would not connect. When I turned the car off the steering wheel lock did not engage when I removed the key. I attempted to start it back up with no luck.

About an hour later, I went out and tried to start it. The key turned but it still did nothing. I was able to get my OBD scanner to connect and it showed error code U0212 "Lost communication with Steering Column Control Module". After searching the forums for a few hours seeing that it could be my battery, ECM, ABS Module, and endless other options I found the trick to jump the relay in R8 to get the car to start. I worked and I was able to get the car home after work.

I had my battery tested after work and they came back and said the alternator was bad, and the battery was ok. I ordered a replacement Bosch alternator and installed it. Charged the battery, and drove it to work. On the way it drove fine, but at soon as the car sat at idle for a few minutes all the warning lights came back. Not able to start again. So by the end of the day I tried to jump the relay to get it started but it didn't have enough power so I had to connect jumper cables to another car and then jump the relay to get it started. I got it home and have been scratching my head since.

Today, the car wouldn't start at all. Key turns. No error messages. Just wont crank at all. I attempted to jump the relay and the motor cranked but will not start. I have been searching non stop with no luck. I ordered a Tech II clone, and I am awaiting its delivery. I already have the TIS crack, as well WIS ready to go once it arrives. I read a post about the ground wire that goes from the fuse panel to the ECM breaks and gives intermittent power to the ECM which can cause the issues, however I attempted to look for it today and had zero luck finding the brown and white wire everyone talked about.

Help me?
 

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First question - how old is your battery? I know you say it was tested but plenty of members here have had batteries that "tested ok" that were not.

Always my first suspect with multiple warnings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is about a year and half old. Once I charged it, it was a 12.59 volts when I checked with with my multimeter. Prior to replacing the alternator, it was only running at 13.2 volts when the car was on. Now with the new alternator it is around 14 volts when running. I was thinking the battery might be the issue, and I will most likely be buying a replacement tomorrow, but would that also cause my ignition to not work properly and my CIM to not engage/disengage the steering lock?
 

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It is about a year and half old. Once I charged it, it was a 12.59 volts when I checked with with my multimeter. Prior to replacing the alternator, it was only running at 13.2 volts when the car was on. Now with the new alternator it is around 14 volts when running. I was thinking the battery might be the issue, and I will most likely be buying a replacement tomorrow, but would that also cause my ignition to not work properly and my CIM to not engage/disengage the steering lock? Yes
You could get your battery load tested too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I originally suspected the battery could be bad. I went ahead and ordered one last night. I will pick it up today on lunch. I got an Auto Craft Platinum AGM from Advanced Auto. Anyone have any luck with them?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I replaced the battery. Started up no problem which is typical when the car sits for an extended period. I drove it around without problems either. I let it sit at idle for a few minutes in my garage and all the warning lights lit up again and AC quit working. No error messages on the SID. Any other thoughts?
 

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Hey, I just wanted to tag along to this post, I am having literally the exact same errors as you. I have gotten my car to restart by pressing the yellow "kill" switch button on the black box sitting at the rear of the battery. Usually it takes a couple tries, but ends up starting.

I have two errors (only got it read at auto zone) that are P0089 (fuel pressure regulator 1 performance) and U02122 (lost communication with steering column control module).

I have replaced my battery, and tried bypassing the killswitch (as I thought that might be causing problems with not being able to start).

Another symptom I have noticed is that when my car pops up with all of the errors you get as well, when I have the key into the "on" position, it shows my car as being in Drive going 5mph.

I am stumped, and I do not want to keep spending money to have my car looked at, especially if it it something minor. On the flip side, I am concerned it may be the ECM and I may be in for a replacement (and out $1,500...).
 

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May be the ABS module as noted earlier in thread . Seems to be an issue with V6 Aero's.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I am leaning towards ABS module. When I first searched that is what I seemed to find out. I recently saw a forum post that mentioned wiggling the ABD module wiring harness if the car won't start. This morning I tried to start it up and it didn't do anything. I left the car in the on position and got out a wiggled the module harness. Sure enough, there was a warning for traction control that popped up and beeped at me. Wiggled a little more and it went away and started up. My tech 2 clone will be here Thursday. I think regardless of what it says I might go ahead and replace the ABS module. Any one have a good source for a good deal on one? I am not looking to spend $900 plus for one. I have ordered from Neo Brothers out of the UK before with good luck, but nothing like this. I don't want to get a used module and it not be divorced from the previous car or have the same issue. They only want 125 Euro (About $150) for the module and the hydraulic pump and freight is only $30.
 

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So update as well, dropped the car off at a Saab mechanic, before using a Tech 2 they said they think I need a CIM, ECM, and possibly the ABS.

I’ll update when I hear back from them.
 

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all of them? scam artists
 

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I agree. I’m using them for the tech 2 that’s it. They offered me a loaner and said they will diagnose each problem one at a time and test it. If problem is fixed good to go, if it’s not, they’ll move to the next possibility.

We will see. Guys are supposed to be trusted, but who knows these days.
 

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Update: they said it is the EBCM (electronic break computer module) and that it would be $2,007 to fix.

Any ideas? Do they mean the ABS module? They didn’t give me a part number so I am very confused. Don’t want to spend 2k to fix this thing, but if there’s an easier way or a way to do it myself I would love to hear some advise!
 

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My first reaction: run away from your mechanic.

My second reaction: $2,007 = 2007 = 2007 Saab. So maybe not to be taken too literally?

I had similar problems with my 2007 Aero with hot starts, though I never had error messages pop up while driving. Pulling the F2 fuse was my go-to method for getting the car moving if it wasn't responding (resets the ECM). After poking around with my Saab-experienced Tech II-handling local mechanic, we decided to try replacing-to-diagnose the ECM with a -used- ECM from car-part.com, $100 for the part (vs. $800-$900 for new) + labor to install and marry the ECM to the car. Six months later, it's been running smooth ever since. You may want to try this with a used ABM module if those are to be had.

With computers, I will forevermore want to replace the suspect computer with a used one first to see if it makes a difference, rather than spend $$$ on a new computer to solve nothing. (Though CIM may be a special case.)

I'm a fan of my V6 9-3 and still see good value in maintaining it vs $20,000 for a new car.
 

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They mean the ECU. So the big question....is this your daily driver? If not, time to spend some time hanging out with us, ordering a tech2 and an ecu and saving yourself some money.

If you are close to Indy this guy might be able to help:

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=383074

If you have no other recourse then you'll have to either pay them or find another shop with tech2 and Saab software who will do it cheaper. Frankly $2007 is ****ing robbery but if they know no one else around has the expertise and tools to do it then they will try and milk you for as much as possible.

Arm yourself as a consumer. Know your options.
 

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I-bus missing.
Troubleshoot as TECH advices.
 

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Its your battery main switch, order a new one online. Cost about 200$ on amazon or geekparts. Mine is out too and its a common problem with the 2003
 
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