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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2005 9-3 linear model and got a key not accepted message. I checked my battery and replaced it because of a low charge. The key still would not turn. Then I ordered a new ignition switch and plugged it in and the key is not turn and still displaying the same message. Do I need to reprogram with a tech 2?
 

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Check battery in key fob and/or try spare key. If these don't work check for stored DTCs with Tech 2.
 

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Sounds like rfid in fob got damaged. Did you drop it? I’m going to go out on a limb and guess you have only have 1 fob too. That stinks.
 

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Yes, it does. Actually, the RFID is passive in these keys, like in OG 9-3, so battery in key won't matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Replaced battery in key and replaced car battery already. And yes only have one fob. Already spent $300 on this car trying to fix the problem. I have had the car for 3 years and only bought it for $2500 I don't want to spend too much money trying to fix whatever may be wrong.
 

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That's too bad. Get the DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes, which do not always light Check Engine light) scanned with a Tech 2 to see what's actually failed, before spending more money. You probably need a new CIM or CIM clone plus keys (plural). There are a number of threads here describing your problem, and solutions of various costs and kinds.
 

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YMMV with below information. Make sure car is in Park or Neutral.

I helped someone with a somewhat similar issue recently. The car had "many" stored DTC's that I feel contributed greatly to the issue and were likely caused by a weak main battery. We were able to start car even before clearing codes with Tech2Win by manually disengaging the lock on the ISM that prevents you from turning it - its just a spring loaded pin really. Set key to Run position and then remove relay 8 from UEC and jump the two larger contacts in the spot where relay was. That will crank the starter and with key in run position engine should start. Clearing the DTC's if present will require a Tech 2 or equivalent.
 

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That, sir, is Macgyvering at its finest. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: I tried jumped starting the car as AVguy suggest but nothing pulled the ignition switch out and cleaned it. Also installed the new ignition switch but the key will not turn and with the new ignition switch when I insert the key nothing will light up on the panel like it would with the old ignition switch.
But here is my actually question what would be an equivalent to the tech 2 because I did some looking around and found various scanners that works on different European car models but I'm not sure if they will work. If there is no equivalent I will order a tech 2.
 

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Update: I tried jumped starting the car as AVguy suggest but nothing pulled the ignition switch out and cleaned it. Also installed the new ignition switch but the key will not turn and with the new ignition switch when I insert the key nothing will light up on the panel like it would with the old ignition switch.
But here is my actually question what would be an equivalent to the tech 2 because I did some looking around and found various scanners that works on different European car models but I'm not sure if they will work. If there is no equivalent I will order a tech 2.
The equivalent is using a Drew Mongoose Pro GM II with a laptop as described in the Tech 2 forum here on SC. It is more expensive than a clone Tech 2 but is more reliable in May people’s opinion.

Did you attempt to manually rotate the fob in the ISM by retracting the locking pawl? That is necessary for this to have a chance of working.
If you need more details I can try to locate a photo to show you exactly where it is.


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The ISM needs to be loose for the procedure to work as the locking pin is on the bottom where you see the small spring at the centerline of the axis. A small jewelers screwdriver is all that is needed. Just carefully insert in the slot and move the pin away from the center.




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Did starter crank engine over when jumping the terminals in the UEC at relay #8? Terminals #31 to #87 iirc.
Do you hear fuel pump start and stop when fob is turned to run position?


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Key not accepted is a problem with either the ism or the rfid chip in the fob nothing else,as diggs says in post#3
 

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Yep. OP has replaced ISM, and the only key they have doesn't work. ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok so if the RFID chip is damaged and I do not have a spare. And I already replaced the ISM but it still does not wrong. Then what is my next option?
 

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As far as I understand your cheapest option is clone your old CIM to a new (pulled) one which has multiple keys, or read your CIM EEPROM directly and make a new key(s). Two keys are required for this car, for reasons you now, sadly, understand. So you pull the CIM and send it to an outfit that programs another internally to look like yours, except with keys that work (minimum 2 keys). Or, you send it to get a new key(s) made (minimum 2 keys).

Something like this if I am correct:

Saab CIM Pod Key Programming Service

EDIT: There is also the option of doing it yourself with pulled CIM + keys and Tech2
 
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