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Discussion Starter #1
I've read a few threads already, but the advice is all over the place and from years back...so I'm hoping to get better advice consolidated here.

Over the last 2 weeks the key cylinder doesn't seem to want to release fully, but not every time. I can remove the key just fine, but it doesn't release that last little bit and if I try to re-insert the key I can't.

If I jiggle the end of the key in the cylinder for about 15 seconds gently it ends up releasing finally and then the door unlocks and dome light comes on. At that point I can put the key back in fine and know I'll be fine for the next drive.

So, solutions?

I've seen anywhere from "spray a tiny bit of graphite on the key" to "take apart the cylinder and clean and reassemble" to "replace the cylinder assembly completely".

I'm not wanting to be cheap on this...I want it to work and work right every time since my wife drives the car occasionally too. So whatever is the proper thing to do, I'll get it done...but looking for solid advice here.
 

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FYI, not sure if it's allowed to link another forum, but this is likely my first step to try: http://saabworld.net/showthread.php?t=26395

If that doesn't work, then I'm not sure where to go from there. Can the key cylinder be replaced without replacing the twice module or transponder or existing key?
 

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You can swap all the key cylinders you want without needing Tech II. The remote in the head of the existing keys can be swapped to different key blades, but those remotes are programmed in so a new remote won't work without Tech II.

That guide is reasonable for removal. What it doesn't state, but should, is that once that cap and spring are off, you also need to check for wear, especially in the spring-loaded pin that you will see through the rotating part, just inside the bottom of the outer cylinder.

If there's significant wear, the cylinder won't pop up no matter how much you lubricate it.

Being unable to insert the key is a new one. Usually the problem is either the key won't come out, or the key goes in but the cylinder won't turn from lock.

If it's still sticking after lubrication, a deeper disassembly will be required. Or you could just get a key/cylinder that works well from a junkyard car. Then there are a couple of possible approaches.
 

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I have phob issue I know I can use key but not sure where to put the key once in the car as am used to using phob .. ?? In case you had any ideas many thanks Shanell
 

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I know you've tried graphite, but have you tried WD-40 with the white lithium grease? It's works for me for a about a month and then i need to reapply it.
 

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You've had a reply to visit the 9-3 section but I'll answer

I have phob issue I know I can use key but not sure where to put the key once in the car as am used to using phob .. ?? In case you had any ideas many thanks Shanell
If you only have the physical key blade (metal part that allows you to unlock the driver door without the button remote) then you can't start the car. In a 9-3 (I'm assuming you have a 2003+) the fob itself needs to be recognized by the car itself so the steering wheel unlocks etc. If you look at the ignition, it's just an open hole (plunger) that is shaped the same as the end of the fob. No fob, no start. All the metal key blade allows is to open the driver door.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can swap all the key cylinders you want without needing Tech II. The remote in the head of the existing keys can be swapped to different key blades, but those remotes are programmed in so a new remote won't work without Tech II.

That guide is reasonable for removal. What it doesn't state, but should, is that once that cap and spring are off, you also need to check for wear, especially in the spring-loaded pin that you will see through the rotating part, just inside the bottom of the outer cylinder.

If there's significant wear, the cylinder won't pop up no matter how much you lubricate it.

Being unable to insert the key is a new one. Usually the problem is either the key won't come out, or the key goes in but the cylinder won't turn from lock.

If it's still sticking after lubrication, a deeper disassembly will be required. Or you could just get a key/cylinder that works well from a junkyard car. Then there are a couple of possible approaches.
I know you've tried graphite, but have you tried WD-40 with the white lithium grease? It's works for me for a about a month and then i need to reapply it.
Thank you both! If necessary, I think I can order this set: https://www.esaabparts.com/saab/parts/12761947 and replace the keys in my existing fobs along with the ignition cylinder, driver's door, trunk, and glove compartment...sound right?
 

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Thank you both! If necessary, I think I can order this set: https://www.esaabparts.com/saab/parts/12761947 and replace the keys in my existing fobs along with the ignition cylinder, driver's door, trunk, and glove compartment...sound right?
Well, you can replace just the ignition cylinder and use the old key for the other things if you need it.

What I did was get a good-working cylinder from a junkyard car. Then I swapped over the key "pins" from my worn cylinder. Surprisingly, I didn't break anything and it works fine. If I hadn't found that cylinder (with a key so I could remove it), I probably would have gotten the key/cylinder and done the same.

Only thing to keep in mind, there are two types of keys, and the cylinders and internals do not interchange. I would think you have the type with the zigging central channel, and the picture is the same, so ought to work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, you can replace just the ignition cylinder and use the old key for the other things if you need it.

What I did was get a good-working cylinder from a junkyard car. Then I swapped over the key "pins" from my worn cylinder. Surprisingly, I didn't break anything and it works fine. If I hadn't found that cylinder (with a key so I could remove it), I probably would have gotten the key/cylinder and done the same.

Only thing to keep in mind, there are two types of keys, and the cylinders and internals do not interchange. I would think you have the type with the zigging central channel, and the picture is the same, so ought to work.
Thank you, yes I have the zigging central channel now. I'll see if cleaning it does the trick...I am the cleaner after all. :)
 

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I have managed to get car to start gave the fob a wiggle in the socket and it unlocked the steering and started the car. I tried fob after getting out of car and it locked so I thought all was ok but when I came back to car fob was dead again both fobs wouldn't come to life LOL
So I had to do the whole key unlock passenger door put fob in socket except now it's coming up with it can't lock steering, Mmmm.....???
So in morning I'm heading to car shop
And to see what battery I need and if they'll change it for me....???
If not I'll change it!
So at moment I'm climbing out passenger door to lock up car. I disabled car alarm for now as it was just going off every time I went to unlock it and it's the loudest alarm ever hahaha ;)
Everyone instantly staring over as it started going off started to stress me out abit.
I will turn it back on once fob is sorted.
I'm hoping it will help sort the steering lock problem as that only started when the fob stopped working.

Many Thanks
Shanell :)
 

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I have fob in fact I have 2 but I thought you had to use metal key inside car but found out you don't the car recognised the fob and unlocked steering but it wouldnt turn at first gave it a wiggle like someone suggested on a forum and it worked. But when I got out car it locked with fob as normal but when I got back to car fob was dead again both fobs actually.
So I'm climbing out passenger door at mo to lock it. Am going to car shop in morning,
over here in UK there's a few little shops and a few big name car shops so hopefully I should get this fob situation sorted out or at least the batteries so I can sort it out.

Many thanks
Shanell ;)
 
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