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I posed in the 9-5 section asking for best bang buck Saab and they said 99 9-3 so that's What I got(skipped on a few $600 2001-2003 Areo stick 9-5's and a few Auto Aero 9-3/5 2005+). Guy only wanted $400 so drove almost 2 hours drove it back no major issues and drove all day.

It handles heavy and shaky on bumps. 3rd gear zings if I shift real fast but not normal shifts.Biggest issue was if I dump the clutch it bangs took it to uncles house had him pop clutch in reverse and looks like rear motor mount is real bad motor jumps up from the back but I could only see the linkage maybe the mounts are hidden.
Minor issues
No back window(just taped a bag),screen scrambled,antenna makes noises but won't raise.with key out it still thinks key in ignition door dings,when I turn the radio on the screen says something like check brake bulb then it goes on/off, No blower motor-knob gone guy rigged switch for blower but he said it caught fire now doesn't work(switch still hanging not working) top is slow and needs help handle fell off but it locked,e brake weak but firm lever,not real fast but decently quick....

So usually first thing I do with a new car is plugs,belts,fluids,filters

What oil plugs and other stuff should I get before I do a 3"DP/exhaust and tune it?
I put $2 motor mounts on my 89 Aries are cheap rockauto mounts ok?
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9-3 02 190K 900SE 98 90K
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grab an engine support bar and drop the subframe completely to make suspension work, rear motor mount, oil sump much easier. always order two OEM crossover tube o-rings when doing the oil sump as you risk dislodging the tube with degraded o-rings and creating a massive oil pressure loss. I'm sure most of us would go with a good name-brand rear motor mount due to the difficulty of accessing it (read: subframe) You can search the forums for the procedures but again: it all starts with removing the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
grab an engine support bar and drop the subframe completely to make suspension work, rear motor mount, oil sump much easier. always order two OEM crossover tube o-rings when doing the oil sump as you risk dislodging the tube with degraded o-rings and creating a massive oil pressure loss. I'm sure most of us would go with a good name-brand rear motor mount due to the difficulty of accessing it (read: subframe) You can search the forums for the procedures but again: it all starts with removing the subframe.
Wish I read this earlier. Jacked the trans up as high as possible and the stupid mount was still stuck. Had to disconnect shift linkage rod and jack it up into firewall to get it out (used a rubber wheel chock under trans) took way too long. Also did drive belt,check valve and noticed both tensioner and idler pulley were going. Also changed oil with T6 5w-40 and a Purolator Max filter. Drives alot better now 3rd gear still notchy So maybe fluid change or is there a linkage adjust? also there was a weird rapping sound that didn't get louder with RPM and was only noticeable inside the car. put in clutch and revved up it stayed same speed but comes and goes here's a video....

 

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look up GHwerks on facebook and instagram, if you have those social medias..
hes made a "sport" motor mount solution. little stiffer than stock. but not as violent as the aluminum race versions that have been sold in the past.

people have filled the front mount and the trans mount with urethane to help them stiffen up.
the only downside is they take a solid week to dry. so id buy new fill em up and then swap then in a week or so.


The convertible is definitively not the most rigid chassis. personally i recommend a steering rack brace and six point sub frame brace.

you can make small adjustments to the linkage at the firewall.
but a grinding 3rd is normal for these, unfortunately.


the noise is odd. maybe exhaust related? hard to tell.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
look up GHwerks on facebook and instagram, if you have those social medias..
hes made a "sport" motor mount solution. little stiffer than stock. but not as violent as the aluminum race versions that have been sold in the past.

people have filled the front mount and the trans mount with urethane to help them stiffen up.
the only downside is they take a solid week to dry. so id buy new fill em up and then swap then in a week or so.


The convertible is definitively not the most rigid chassis. personally i recommend a steering rack brace and six point sub frame brace.

you can make small adjustments to the linkage at the firewall.
but a grinding 3rd is normal for these, unfortunately.


the noise is odd. maybe exhaust related? hard to tell.
Yeah I got a new trans mount so I'll fill the motor one with 3M window weld.This is just a weekend car I have other vehicles to drive I can wait
Are there any tutorials on that brace?
I'm gonna try Honda MTF it fixed a few manual trans before with syncro issues
I drove it hard the other day and it made the same crazy moaning Titanic hitting iceberg suspension sound as my 9-5 wagon. It felt like something shifted in a hard turn but nothing is loose?
 

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2000 93 SE Vert Auto : 2001 93 SE Vert Manual
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Installing the 6 point brace almost eliminated the Cowl Shake in my car that is common to these convertibles. There are lots of other upgrade parts on this site as well, so snoop around to see what you may need for your build.
6 Point Brace

I have 2 Saabs - one with a totally stock suspension and with several upgrades from Genuine SAAB (Steering Rack Brace, Rear Sway Bar, 6 Point Brace & Strut Brace). The two cars handle very differently, especially over rough roads and when cruising at 70+ on the highway. I plan on adding these parts to the other car in the near future.

FYI - You can get a package-deal price break if you get the Steering Rack Brace and select the Sway Bar and 6 Point Brace in the 'Options' drop down.
 

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1) If you put that Honda fluid in there, drain it out ASAP. You're going to kill that tranny. Only use MTF0063 from Saab. It doesn't play well with other fluids, so you need to do a double flush. Costs a few $'s but it will (eventually) clean out the synchos. If you don't want to pay the $'s you can use Penzoil Synchromesh, but I make no warranty on it cleaning anything out. But, some of the tuners here use it and don't have issues. FWIW.

Best technique is to flush, change, then shift by bringing the shifter to the gate for a half second to let the syncros spin up, then shift into gear. Over time, it should get better if it's not a mechanical issue. Be aware that 3rd gear was an issue in the early transmissions, so you might have some wear.

If you want a poly steering rack mount, I have a used one in great shape you can have inexpensively. Personally, I think it does as much as the rack clamp/brace (which was a UK invention to deal with both the large rubber bushing and the problem with RHD firewalls... which the LHD cars don't have). I had this bushing on mine... fell into a rack brace for $50 - but honestly, I don't know that there's any difference.

Lastly, I'll guarantee that car needs the struts done. Sometimes the rear shocks will last longer, but the front struts are always dead once you pull them out. They pass the bounce test, but they're always dead over 100K.
 
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