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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All, Decided it was time to show what I have been up to this past year. Someone I know said I should post so here it is. I will post some pictures too if I can figure it out. Any help would be great.

1) Front mount intercooler Double pass. direct in, direct out. 11X24X3
Lowered radiator 3" to fit piping.
2) Cross member braces for added front stability
3) Opened ended APC: Basic boost 12lbs, Basic APC boost 20Lbs, max about 30lbs on 93 octane. higher on av gas or octane boost
4) Ported and polished 2.0 head, intake manifold and exhaust manifold and turbine housing.4000 rpm really comes alive. 10lbs boost at 1500rpms, 20lbs boost at 2500rpms, 30bls boost at 3000rpms
5) Garret turbo 42 A/R compressor, 48 A/R tubine vs Mitsu
6) Oil catch can made from Alum fire extiguisher
7) Updated Eprom for 3.0 Bar fuel pressure regulator and no boost limit
8) Alum flywheel with 215MM SACHS pressure plate and 6 puck disk
9) Cold air intake with 63MM tube and Oiled Filter
10) Battery relocation to trunk
11) 16" aero wheels
12) Aero electric seats
13) 2.5" exhaust with bullet glass pack muffler and split tips
14)1996 Aero front calipers with larger pads
15) Front engine mount ( rebuildable)
16) Equal lenght tube exhaust manifold
I think that covers most of it.

Up and coming mod's,
Gripper Diff Clutch Type LSD (on the way mid August)
Computer ignition( already have just figuring installation)
3" exhaust with 3" cat going to 2.5 after cat
External wastegate.
Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator
Rising rate fuel pressure regulator ( already have) just not installed
Fender Flares (carbon fiber or fiberglass not sure yet) with the ability to run up to 18" diameter tires preferably 245-45-18 or there abouts.
Oh, and a new turbo. Garrett not sure yet what I'll be looking for except high boost pressures with a good compressor map.

7-13-07 just picked up a VNT T25 Garrett turbo. Looking at installing a VNT unit on the moble.
 

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How did you lower your radiator? (edit: just had a second look at the pic's:eek: some serious work done there!)
I've had mine tilted for a while and have been thinking about buying a shorter fatter rad so i can run the IC pipes over it without having to lean it back.

If there is room, lowering it would also be a cool option.

PS grate minds think alike;)
install i'm working on at the moment


How it was set up previously
 

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Ahhh. Can't make pictures out. Too shaky. You can upload to photobucket and then tag them in for full sized pictures, by the way:) 30psi?!? Fantastic:cheesy:

What igntion system you going for?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)

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That is a very interesting intercooler design! Neat-o!

Oh, and I saw the photo of the rebuildable front motor mount, any additional info on that? I'd love to make one of those, I hate failed hydraulic mounts.
 

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To display pictures in the post, you need to click on the insert image button ( this one
)
Then paste in the direct link to the picture into that dialogue box.
For example "http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/jennifer012904/d5b751fd-2.jpg"
No extra html should be put in the post, as it will be ignored.
So, here are your pics:



 

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Discussion Starter #11
Front upper cross member

Front upper cross member is completely removable that covers the intercooler. I wanted to be able to remove the intercooler without having to pull the bumper.

Also when I started the project I wasn't sure what direction I was taking and was almost going to go with hood latches on both sides like a 9000 and still might at some point but once I figured things out the cross member when back in and the hood closed perfectly.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Front engine mount

The front engine mount is made up of a poly universal truck cab mount. I picked the 90 durometer mount for solidness but I might try a 70 Duro to see if it dampens engine noise more.

The mount is made up from 7 pieces.

original hydro center bolt
1/4" plate
1/2 bolt

Energy Suspension Universial mount 9.4101G
Parts in Kit (supplies enough for 2 mounts or 1 and one rebuild) I paid 22.99usd
upper poly 2
lower poly 2
Bushing 2
Large washer 2

I used the original Hydraulic mounts center bolt ( no metric threading taps or dies yet) Burn this out and clean up.
weld Hydra bolt to top of 1/2 bolt grind or file to rectangular shape to fit into bottom of transmission cover/engine mount. The bolt already has a rectangular cross section from where it originally engaged the trans cover to hold it from turning but is made out of alum so when will need to be cleaned of the alum before welding. I opted to completely remove the alum and weld the the 2 bolts together. Doing it again I would leave the head on the hydra mount and weld just the 1/2" headless bolt to the to the head of the hydra unit.

The mount is 1/4 in plate, with a 5/8 hole for the bushing to go thru but still be thumb press fit, The bushing bolt is 1/2" So it's plenty strong.

I put the thicker of the 2 poly round disks on the bottom, figured it would have the higher shear loads. The engine is rock solid. doesn't move at all with the brake, 1st gear test. ( test used for bad front engine mount)

Any questions feel free to email me. I will post pictures of the parts minus the 1/4 plate and bolts if someone wants. I don't have any other bad hydraulic mounts around.

Oh, I have 20000 miles on the mount and it's still rock solid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Ignition system

Albert Trout said:
Ahhh. Can't make pictures out. Too shaky. You can upload to photobucket and then tag them in for full sized pictures, by the way:) 30psi?!? Fantastic:cheesy:

What igntion system you going for?
Thanks

Jacobs Pro street, I'm still figuring out the install. I will post pictures once the air intake and Pro street go into the car.

But, I think I maybe switching to the MegasquirtII V3.0
 

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Wow nice work! very clean.

do you have any indication of hp/nm?
or is that the kid in me asking stupid questions :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
HP figures.

Thanks for the compliment,

I haven't done any dyno work yet. I'm still getting some of the bugs worked out (fuel eprom) But according to the APC work, the ported/polished head, 3.0bar reg, with the Garrett turbo Vs the Mitsu it should be around 260 or 265. I believe it's putting out more with the FMIC. The air running thru it is usually colder than ambient.
IC Temp sending units going in next week or week after.

I'll be on the dyno once I get the tuned length exhaust manifold and updated turbo in and 3"-2.5"after cat, exhaust with high flow cat.

Dyno time is expensive and I'd rather throw the money at the components for the time being.

I can tell you it will spin the tires on just about any corner even in 5th. It loves on ramps. J
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Just finished my header

Hi, finished off my new headers, Made out of steel tube, 1 1/4 primary's, 17 equal length. will be going into car today.

Whach ya think? J









 

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Looks very very nice indeed!
Must have taken a fair amount of time to make...
Are you going to jet-hot coat it?
Daniel.
 
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