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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re posting as new thread ,

Car has been back on road for about 1500k and depsite the occasional hesitation and splutter under heavy acceleration or WOT it was running fairly well , boosting strong idling smooth and returning what I thought would be reasonable and expected fuel economy. 11Litres 100 , or 500 k a tank (mostly Highway)

To try and rectify the miss , I changed cap and leads , no real improvement .
Also changed coil , more just to eliminate .

over the last week this hesitation has become more regular and more extreme . There have been occasions when the car will totally loose power , and eventually not even idle . On these occasions time spent cooling heels has seen it come good and become driveable. ( not perfect but driveable )

Coming home last night , I refueled with high octane ( wanting to eliminate the fuel quality ) It made it home ( 70 odd K ) alright but was getting more consistent in the rough running , and not wanting to idle .

Today .. I cant start it , It has spark , havent yet confirmed fuel ( but hear the pump doing its thing )

Should i be heading to the AMM ? Can i intoduce a 2.2 to a 2.4 car for testing ?
What else should I be checking for ? Could a faulty hall be to blame ? Although I have said there is spark , I wouldnt say it was brilliant ,
There is evidence of oil working its way thru distributor . Distributor rebild ?

As always , thanks in anticipation ,

Cheers LES


 

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Aussie -

That spark should be nice and bright and jump a good gap to ground - so it could be a contaminated or failing HAL sensor - try jiggling the wire (gently) from the HAL sensor while someone else cranks it - see if it starts -

The oil could also have obscured the optical sensor in the distributor - if you can douche it out with contact cleaner it might start / run (after you let it dry) - which would give you a positive for needing to rebuild the distributor -

Best of luck

Steve

edit: The distributor fixing bolt(s) are snug, aren't they? Hate to think that the distributor was rotating a bit on its own ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve , The dizzy wiring ( external ) was an issue when I got the car , the moulded plug on the 16v wasnt snug to the body , and the external wiring was brittle and exposed . I fixed the external and have ( I hate to admit it ) rtv'ed the moulded plug in place , The internal wiring could certainly be damaged (below whats visible ) . The dizzy does leak a bit of oil actually a lot , the heat shield below has a constant damp patch . , I havent really been game to delve to far , I dont have a great track record on succesfully pulling dizzys apart , WELL I pull them apart ok ... its the other part I struggle with , :roll: Yes the dizzy is snug to head , (single bolt 16v )
How deep in am I to get to the optical sensor you refer ? Whats in a dizzy rebuild kit ? with some guidance and patience can I put in the past my dizzy failings ?( non saab ) and rebuild this one ?... I do have another but its off an 88 ( this car is 89 2.4 ) I am guessing the internals would be the same , but I would have to rejig the connectors as they are a different profile .
 

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Aussie -

I've rebuilt a few Bosch distributors - but they were for VW's and had points .... that said I can't imagine the guts are that much different -

You should have the baseplate, the HAL unit (which replaces the points), a rotating sensor part (reflector or some such thing) that "tells" the HAL unit where the distributor shaft is, some advance weights and their associated springs (at least my VW distributors did) - then the shaft seal - that should be about it. Sure, there's the drive gear on the end of the shaft (where it interfaces with the cam) and some seals - but there's really not a lot inside the distributor. The reflector on the shaft replaces the cam that used to be on a distributor shaft (which opened the points) -

Most distributors used to fail due to either stuck advance weights (they'd rust up) or a short (errant wire that grounded out the points) - I suspect that you may have a brittle/broken wire inside the distributor that's now grounding to the housing rather than sending a good signal from the HAL -

Please note - I'd check the ground connection at the coil before I started to rip the distributor apart - if the coil ground isn't good you'll get a very weak spark (if any at all) -

Take lots of pictures of the distributor as you take it apart - so you'll know where everything is supposed to fit when you start to put it back together - if there's significant shaft play (wobble) you may have to replace a bushing - or if there's no bushing - get the hole filled with weld and then re-bored to the correct (stock) size in order to fix that -

Best of luck

Steve
 
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