hi got myself a 9000 cs 2lt turbo its auto had a upgrade making 225 bhp (well worth it ) the trouble is when i boot it, which is most of the time mainly kick down the car jolts if i put my foot down slowly let it build up theres no trouble. A mate of mine who knows a bit about cars, told me its the auto gearbox and i should change the oil, like i said i know sod all about cars, so asked at my local garage who told me they would do it, but first i should find out if it has a sump plug and if it has a oil filter, if so i should purchase one myself does any one know if mine has. Its a 1997 cs 9000 2lt turbo thanks for your time
Is it my Autobox ?
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Well, don't know where to start here...
225 is (according to Saab) too much for the ZF tranny to take. That's why they don't come from the factory spec like that.
Likely the fix will not be a fluid change, however there is nothing wrong with that. Yes, the tranny has a sump plug and filter. You don't need to replace the filter, unless it looks like a lot of crap has been filtered out of your tranny (which might be the case, as with each harsh kickdown you might be shearing metal off a gear). The filter gaskets (the rubber o-rings that keep the fluid from seeping outside the edges of the filter) should be replaced, depending on who you talk to (my dealership says no, but who are they, anyways?). If your repair shop says they look worn, get it done regardless.
The fix will likely be an adjustment of the kickdown cable. This cable activates the kickdown mechanism, and can fall out of alignment with time. Take it to a dealership; it's not an expensive repair and if they screw it up it's their nickel.
If you intend on keeping this car for a long time, I would consider getting the stock 200HP APC box. That coupled with the fact that if yours truly is a 2.0 litre engine, it would have had to have been an LPT conversion to FPT. That coupled with the 225 APC coupled with the autobox leads me to believe that you're going to be replacing that tranny sometime soon. You're living on borrowed time in my opinion.
225 is (according to Saab) too much for the ZF tranny to take. That's why they don't come from the factory spec like that.
Likely the fix will not be a fluid change, however there is nothing wrong with that. Yes, the tranny has a sump plug and filter. You don't need to replace the filter, unless it looks like a lot of crap has been filtered out of your tranny (which might be the case, as with each harsh kickdown you might be shearing metal off a gear). The filter gaskets (the rubber o-rings that keep the fluid from seeping outside the edges of the filter) should be replaced, depending on who you talk to (my dealership says no, but who are they, anyways?). If your repair shop says they look worn, get it done regardless.
The fix will likely be an adjustment of the kickdown cable. This cable activates the kickdown mechanism, and can fall out of alignment with time. Take it to a dealership; it's not an expensive repair and if they screw it up it's their nickel.
If you intend on keeping this car for a long time, I would consider getting the stock 200HP APC box. That coupled with the fact that if yours truly is a 2.0 litre engine, it would have had to have been an LPT conversion to FPT. That coupled with the 225 APC coupled with the autobox leads me to believe that you're going to be replacing that tranny sometime soon. You're living on borrowed time in my opinion.
thanks for your reply, And yes it is a 2lt i had a stage 1 upgrade this consists of a reprogrammed ECU , jr sport filter, and APC solenoid, giving a extra 76bhp on top of the standard 150 bhp lpt makes a big differrence well worth the fun but sadly looks like i sacrificed my auto box at the same time
I concur that the power does make a huge difference from the stock 150...
Don't get me wrong, though, I'm not saying everything's lost. You can prolly just pare down the power a bit by going stock with one or two of the items you mentioned (I'd lose the air filter; it's probably going to be the easiest to change), do the oil/filter change, get a kickdown cable adjustment made and see where you go from there. I have heard of sketchy boxes lasting another 50K miles after "the beginning of the end" with proper preventative measures taken early.
If you really want to get some balls on your ride, I'd go the other route - weight reduction. Things like taking out the AC, manual seats, lose the back seats, lower weight alloy rims with low pro tires, there's a ton of sh*t in the doors than can go; there are plenty of avenues to go with this. Funny, there aren't a lot of resources online for this kind of thing, but if you put your mind to it I think you can achieve great things while still keeping the powertrain in spec. These are bloody heavy rides, and the fact that they haul at almost 4000 lbs is a testament to an engine that could do great things in a lighter car.
Don't get me wrong, though, I'm not saying everything's lost. You can prolly just pare down the power a bit by going stock with one or two of the items you mentioned (I'd lose the air filter; it's probably going to be the easiest to change), do the oil/filter change, get a kickdown cable adjustment made and see where you go from there. I have heard of sketchy boxes lasting another 50K miles after "the beginning of the end" with proper preventative measures taken early.
If you really want to get some balls on your ride, I'd go the other route - weight reduction. Things like taking out the AC, manual seats, lose the back seats, lower weight alloy rims with low pro tires, there's a ton of sh*t in the doors than can go; there are plenty of avenues to go with this. Funny, there aren't a lot of resources online for this kind of thing, but if you put your mind to it I think you can achieve great things while still keeping the powertrain in spec. These are bloody heavy rides, and the fact that they haul at almost 4000 lbs is a testament to an engine that could do great things in a lighter car.
I like your way of thinking. I was thinking of taking everything out of my 9000 and making it really light, but it really takes away the comfort. So i bought a second 9000 and now im taking all the weight off. Does the ac actually way that much? and what are some other things that weight allot to take off?
I've been looking at different things I can get rid of, and it all comes down to comfort vs. weight reduction. Here's a short list of what I've thought about removing so far:
Seats, rear and passenger, and I think I could prolly swap out the driver's side for a lighter model if I found some compatible rails. That lumbar support thing smacks of dead weight.
Doors. The Fiat Croma has the same shape and size of door (seeing as both the Croma and 9000 were based on the same platform) but lighter. Dunno if I'm ever gonna see a Croma in a wreckers this side of the pond, but if I do I'm all over it! Croma doors don't have the same reinforcing as the 9000's, ergo way lighter.
Climate control. The blower motor, the AC system, that stupid vent adjustment motor. As well, there are vents under the seats, and these other silly fans in the rear doors.
Wheels. Saab stock cross spokes are a little lighter than the rest.
Exhaust. Swap out the steel for a lighter setup.
Fuel. Smaller tank, and say bye-bye to that auxillary fuel pump.
Glass. It's a bit finicky, and I haven't really tested it, but my theory is that pre-90 glass weighs less. If I remember right, in 90 Saab changes to a special "heat transferring" glass. I don't know for sure, but it might be a heavier type.
There are a bunch of other things, like the central locking, sunroof, SRS (airbags) that can make a small difference, but I think these are the biggies. As well, I'm sure there are things like lighter axles and driveshaft, but I don't know if I want to take things that far.
Did I forget anything?
Seats, rear and passenger, and I think I could prolly swap out the driver's side for a lighter model if I found some compatible rails. That lumbar support thing smacks of dead weight.
Doors. The Fiat Croma has the same shape and size of door (seeing as both the Croma and 9000 were based on the same platform) but lighter. Dunno if I'm ever gonna see a Croma in a wreckers this side of the pond, but if I do I'm all over it! Croma doors don't have the same reinforcing as the 9000's, ergo way lighter.
Climate control. The blower motor, the AC system, that stupid vent adjustment motor. As well, there are vents under the seats, and these other silly fans in the rear doors.
Wheels. Saab stock cross spokes are a little lighter than the rest.
Exhaust. Swap out the steel for a lighter setup.
Fuel. Smaller tank, and say bye-bye to that auxillary fuel pump.
Glass. It's a bit finicky, and I haven't really tested it, but my theory is that pre-90 glass weighs less. If I remember right, in 90 Saab changes to a special "heat transferring" glass. I don't know for sure, but it might be a heavier type.
There are a bunch of other things, like the central locking, sunroof, SRS (airbags) that can make a small difference, but I think these are the biggies. As well, I'm sure there are things like lighter axles and driveshaft, but I don't know if I want to take things that far.
Did I forget anything?
Joined
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98 Posts
That sucks about the transmission, but maybe you should do an auto to manual swap if you want to keep that power.
And I believe 94 9000's were the first with that heat transferring glass.
Weight reduction is one way to go also, but if it was my I wouldn't like to compromise the comfort and things that make a 9000 a 9000.(Unless you want to race then thats totally different)
I have a 9000 aero and boy do i know what u mean about 225bhp..
You could wait til it dies and convert OR you could lower the power..Its your call
Good luck with the 9000!
And I believe 94 9000's were the first with that heat transferring glass.
Weight reduction is one way to go also, but if it was my I wouldn't like to compromise the comfort and things that make a 9000 a 9000.(Unless you want to race then thats totally different)
I have a 9000 aero and boy do i know what u mean about 225bhp..
You could wait til it dies and convert OR you could lower the power..Its your call
Good luck with the 9000!
Hey, I just finished an auto-manual swap and it was fairly easy for the mechanicly enclined. Just find a cheep 9000 with a manual trans with the same bolt pattern as yours and use all the parts from that. It took me about a week and a half of on-off work (because i had real work to go to as well) and I had almost no experience with this type of stuff. A good website that i used for allot of the procedures was www.quasimotors.com. I definitly think its worth it, driving has never been soo much fun. Good Luck.
Tommy
Tommy
If you don't know "sod all" about cars, this is not the job for you. If you want to learn lots about the inner workings of your car, this is a perfect job for you.
It's a tough go if you don't have the right tools, and there's a lot of silly little things you need to worry about but it is doable. I think a week and half is an aggressive schedule, but I figure if you live without your car for 2-3 weeks and take your time, you'll learn a lot and have a great ride when you're done.
It's a tough go if you don't have the right tools, and there's a lot of silly little things you need to worry about but it is doable. I think a week and half is an aggressive schedule, but I figure if you live without your car for 2-3 weeks and take your time, you'll learn a lot and have a great ride when you're done.
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