SaabCentral Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think my transmission finally died today, but I wanted a better opinion to confirm, and make sure it's not the linkage.

Also if I do replace, it's my belief that a 94 - 97 non-turbo will bolt in, though the bear ratios will be slightly different.

After an aggressive shift into fourth (I really jammed it in there) when the RPMs were too high (I went 1,2,4), I seem to have lost 3rd and 4th. The trans has had issues for a while, and I've been carefully rev matching, but this situation involved some minivan driving jackass stopping where an I94 onramp merges with exiting traffic, and I wanted to scoot out of the way of a big rig in the right lane. Grrrrr.

All other gears work, though some coaxing is required to get into first at a standstill, and the 5th gear synchro is iffy at best.

Is there any chance at all that it's the linkage? If so, what should I look for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
841 Posts
Before you replace anything, it would be worth it to check both the linkage as you mention and your clutch cable. It seems unlikely that you could've ruined any other synchos other than the one you jammed.

Dmitry has an excellent tutorial on how to realign the linkage here.

As far as the clutch cable is concerned do you know if you have the stock automatic adjusting cable or a manual adjustable version? If its the stock automatic you might want to consider replacing it with the manually adjustable version
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,237 Posts
I believe that third and fourth share a shift fork internal to the trans. It's possible that you broke the roll pin that secures the fork to the selector rod. Is there any resistance at all when you try to go for third or fourth? If that's the case, it should be relatively easy to repair, once you go through the hassle of getting the trans out of the car.

Also, as nickfjields says, having first and fifth be dodgy does indicate a possible clutch cable problem that may or may not be related. The pedal should have about 2cm of free play at the top. If it has more than that, it will engage too close to the floor and can give you trouble shifting.

John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
727 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I believe the cable is fine - it's a manual that I installed in 2007, and there's not much play in it.

I've adjusted the linkage using the linked procedure, but not for over a year. I was going to do that again.

What's interesting is that if the car is stopped with engine off, starting the car in 3rd or fourth gear will cause the transmission to engage and the car to surge.

If I fix it, I'll probably throw a used trans in.

I'm leaning towards getting a different car, especially after the driver's door would not close this morning. On the second attempt, the inside door handle broke off (was about 10F when it happened).

I've enjoyed having this car, but 2010 is not its year:
Jan. 1 at 9:00 a.m.: sideswiped while stopped by someone wearing no pants (it was 12F at the time).
Jan 9th: Fob would not open car. Been using just key since
Feb 10th: 3rd and 4th gear gone
Feb 11th: door won't close, and inside door handle breaks off

What's next?

If I can find a low mileage SE hatchback I might give up on this one.
 

·
Registered
1995 NG900 2.3L
Joined
·
818 Posts
Jan 1: Can you elaborate on that? It sounds a little risque. :cheesy: What were they driving?

Jan 9th: Check batteries in fob, clean batt. contacts, etc.

Feb 10th: Synchros? If I'm not dogging the car, I usually skip 4th (and second for that matter) and shift 1st, 3rd, 5th and let the torque handle the rest.

What's next?
A possible grocery list of items. These cars are not so young anymore. It could turn into cascade failures; one after another. Wait, it already has.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top