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I'm having trouble with my AC which started last year. I put a remanufactured compressor on after mine went out and it lasted a short while working intermitently and then not at all but the clutch engauged. I got a used one and it worked fine for the summer until this week when the coil burned out while i was in a drivethru. I put took the coil/clutch off the remanufactured one and put it on the used one that has been working for me. It worked fine for about 10 minutes and then quit. I thought it wasn't working and then it worked again for a short while after lunch yesterday. The clutch engauges with power and I'm getting power at the plug. No ACC codes or CEL codes.

I don't hear the high speed fan running and don't think it is kicking in. I had to stick the end of a zip tie into the fans to even tell if they were running. I tried swaping the relays for fans but it didn't make a difference. Coincidentally, or maybe not, I ran into a store yesterday and when I came out it didn't want to start but after a couple tries did and has been fine. I recharged by weight so i should be really close. It looks like the fans aren't kicking in and it's going into high pressure lockout.

Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 

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translation for 22 is "Nothing to worry about if the ACC is working properly", which doesn't help you! I've seen 22 a couple of times with no defects. Apparently it can mean various things, its a general software disagree caution which can be sorted by the fault diagnosis you've done (do it again).

Somewhere on Saabcentral you can download the WIS (Workshop Info System) or go to Saab WIS online (don't know the url) for a description of how the ACC logic works, including what controls the fans.
 

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Ideally, you would get a Tech II which will at least give some indication of what's happening. It may be that the low pressure switch is tripping.

Has the system been evacuated and then filled by weight (not pressure)?
 

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Fault code 22 can be also pressure switch wiring loom resistance too high. No effect to ACC.
First digit (your case 1) is only fault counter.
 

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Fault code 22 can be also pressure switch wiring loom resistance too high. No effect to ACC.
First digit (your case 1) is only fault counter.
RIGHT MIMI......I had code 22, and found it to be bad wiring on the hi/low pressure switch on the condensor.

that software defect is BS.
 

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Yes redlinear, that sw defect is BS.
 

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What, you can not read?
I am not MIMI, I am Mimmi.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the help. I was reading about the pressure switch and it may be a possibility.

I may have more than one issue. I pulled the cabin filter and it was awful (this is a Saab rescue car) although all the plastic rivets were all broken and there were missing screws it may have been original. I'm waiting for the new one to get here but it is unbelievable the difference in air movement. I wonder if I was freezing up before.

It still wasn't working and I gave it a little shot of refrigerant (practically nothing) and it started and worked great after adding a little more. This morning it is off again so I'm thinking I may have a leak from my removal/install. If I add a little and it starts again I am going to replace the O-rings and try again.

I've looked at a Tech 2 but having a hard time justifying it unless I find a 9-5 wagon to replace this car. I have to get the ABS module reset still so I'm not sure if I'll take it which requires driving to the next town over in or buy one and then sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Coming back to update this in case it helps someone. I did everything necessary and got the O-rings replaced on the compressor. One had a knick but IDT it was leaking. Pulled a vacuum and tried to recharge and it wouldn't kick it. Getting 14v but the clutch not engaging. Direct wire it and it barely clicks so I pulled the clutch and pulled one of the two spacers and put back in with the cover off the old one. I noticed the bolt was longer on the remanufactured unit so I used the original bolt this time too. Put it back in and nothing, fuse blown/replaced, nothing. Getting 14v and the clutch pulls nice and tight w power, much better than before but A/C won't engage. The next day the A/C is working. Hopefully it was the clutch gap but I still have an eye on the pressure sensor. I also got another 22 code during all of this. I found another thread that was similar to what I'm experiencing and it was the pressure sensor and he got code 22. If this didn't fix it I will be back.

Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And I'm back. It worked for a 200 mile trip and then the next day quit. Can someone please throw me a bone on finding the sensor? I can't seem to find it on WIS or on any of the threads where it is mentioned.
 

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Is this the pressure switch you're looking for? It is located on the right-hand (passenger side) of the condenser (at least on the MY2002 version, which is what I have).
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Is this the pressure switch you're looking for? It is located on the right-hand (passenger side) of the condenser (at least on the MY2002 version, which is what I have).
I believe that is it. I was looking on the wrong side. Thank you!!
 

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Np. You will have to remove the headlight assembly to get good access to the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
New sensor and so far so good. I'm not sure why but it didn't start after replacing it so out of desperation I evacuated, vacuumed, and recharged and it started working. Fingers crossed.
 

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INTERESTING.....CODE 22 is one of those whacky ones. I had the problem years ago and everyone said code 22 is software......I found and obscure notation somewhere on the internet about the pressure switch on the condenser......so I checked it out and sure enough I had broken wires.....patched it up and A/C was great.....

so spread the word as the quick and dirty answer is always software.....but of course no more explanation.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It worked for a few days, including a 100 mile round trip and then quit again. Looks like I'm going to have to have someone with Tech 2 take a look.
 

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So what is going-on now then? Hot air through vents, no air at all or what? Clutch engaging or not? Do you get any error codes when you run the diagnostic check on the ACC unit? What are your manifold gauges showing when you hook them up, LP and HP pressures? Can you see the LP pressure cycling and pulling vacuum when clutch kick-in or is the pressure static between the LP and HP sides (and what is the ambient temperature when you're doing this)? If you provide more details, you will probably get better answers/suggestions.

Edit: Read through your original post again. Did you validate that the radiator fans actually work properly? Sounds like you may have an intermittent electrical problem with the fans. If fans not operative, I think the ECU will prevent the compressor clutch to kick-in. Unless already sorted, try running direct power to the fan and see if then works. If it does, then there must be a short circuit or something, I think you said that you replaced the relay but did you do the same with the fuse?. Just a thought.
 
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