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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alongside the APC retrofit idea, I'd like to actually get into something I've wanted to do for a while which is add a T16 intercooler to the 8V turbo car. I have decided to not waste my time fitting a front-mounted intercooler as that will be going waaay over the top for what is essentially nearly a 'legally vintage' Saab. ;-)

I have a couple of T16 intercoolers (one full cast-aluminium and one of the second-gen plastic tank ones), some of the cast aluminium pipes, and a full set of the rubber pipe couplers, but not the mounting hardware (can get that locally I'm sure).

I will need to relocate the engine oil cooler which currently lives underneath the left side headlight bolted to the vertical part of the 'upper member' which supports the radiator, headlights, etc. I pulled the headlight wipers out long ago so they're gone already.

Fortunately I saved an identical oil cooler with hoses and fittings from the 82 turbo sedan I pulled apart a couple of years ago and once I work out the length I need for getting new hoses made up, I'll set up the cooler to mount on the other side of the upper member under the RHS headlight. I'm also considering replacing the in-line ATF cooler with a body-mounted one (as per the setup in my 89 900i with 3 spd auto trans) though that isn't a key part of the plan - just an extra idea.

I would like to modify the air filter box to instead of having the venturi intake connect to a forward-facing opening, have a backward-facing opening and use one of the 'snorkel' type cold air intakes like the 16V turbo's got. That's also not a critical piece of the plan but I'd definitely like to do that as the cold air intake is already not really optimal for a turbo setup although it's quite good and with a nice filter inside the filter box, works well. Sorting out the cold air intake side will make a bit of an improvement.

Other thing to do is re-route the hard nylon line from the air filter box to the charcoal cannister. I've got plenty of fuel line salvaged from other 900's so that'll be trivial - I know that I can use something like hair dryer to heat up the nylon and bend it to whatever configuration I need to clear the space where the intercooler will sit.

I'm sure a heap of people have put a T16 intercooler into an 8V turbo car that didn't originally have one so what else do I need to keep in mind?

Craig.
 

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Depending on the type of lower radiator hose that you have currently installed, it may need to be replaced. The earlier hoses go straight into the radiator, the later ones have a bend to clear the intercooler.

For the air filter box, just swap one from a Lucas T16, it is exactly the same size and already has the intake facing backwards. Bosch T16 ones are taller and won't fit.
 

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The later hose with the bend also has a line teeing off near the bend to go to the turbo, if the 8V turbo doesnt need that you would need to block that line.
 

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Here's my installation of a 16 valve system, starting from the bellows connector that attaches to the Air Mass Meter on the 16 valve, now connected to the rubber snorkel that comes off the top of the metering plate on the 8 valve. I used a connector from a 9000, but as it turns out the same connector is on the 900, so ignore that comment:


Using a hose from a late model 900 N/A will give you a non-watercooled, but bent, lower radiator hose. This give clearance for he intercooler. It is not necessary if you space the intercooler up and prevent it from binding on the standard hose, but you will not be able to bolt the intercooler down when it sits higher.

Changing the intake plastic snorkel to a side cold air intake is a snap. You first need to relocate the crankcase hose to the intake pipe that runs across the transmission cover, as I show in the photo (cap off the hole where you removed it from). Then, simply unbolt the lid/metering plate from the top of the air cleaner canister, loosen the band clamp on the canister, rotate the canistor clockwise until the 16 valve snorkel will fit as it should and bolt it to the fender, tighten the hose clamp at the canister/snorkel connection, and finally bolt the lid back down. The bolt pattern on the canister is apparently symentrical, because after rotating the canister I was still able to align all the holes with the fuel distributor in it's mostly original position (maybe 5-10 degrees different).

A note of fit. You must squish the rubber snorkel down a little in order to get the pipe from the intercooler to the throttle body on, so don't be afraid to man-handle it a little. I think I had to do something with the valve that is inserted to the rubber snorkel, which I believe is part of the system used for maintaining good idle when the throttle is quickly closed (bypasses air around the metering plate). This valve has ended up somewhat squished at an angle, but still functions all the same. It collides with the top of the intercooler, which pushes it sideways a bit. I suppose one could make an elbow/hose to put it more out of harms way, but so far I've not found it to be a problem. Otherwise, everything else fits like it was meant to be!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the good advice and explanatory pic. I had forgotten that the bottom rad hose I have now (non-kinked at the rad end) will get in the way. If I don't change to the non-inline ATF cooler, I'll grab one of the later N/A bottom hoses anyway and just cut off the section needed to match to the inline ATF cooler. The turbo is only oil-cooled so no need to bother with a coolant feed/drain to the turbo.

It seems from EPC that the way the inline ATF cooler locates was also changed at some stage. In my 81 turbo the cooler is directly in line between the port on the back of the water pump housing and the port on the bottom/back/left of the radiator, but I've seen hoses around that seem to have the inline ATF cooler mounted differently. I don't know if that was anything to do with later 8V cars getting T16 intercoolers from the factory or not.

With the current config (no intercooler) the rubber snorkel doesn't properly mate with the end of the air pipe to the turbo and I've never worked out why. Seems to be the way Saab designed it, but could be that being an 81 build year (first year of 'H' block) the design was a compromise.

I'm sure this will throw a cat amongst the pidgeons too - is the full-aluminium intercooler better than the later plastic-tank versions? I have one of each type (plas tank is the second style with less but larger internal channels).

Craig.
 

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As a bit of an update to the above, I installed the BPV on mine today. It doesn't fit the same way as it does on a 16 valve due to interference with the warm up regulator. I ended up flipping the elbow at the turbo inlet around so the hole is on the radiator facing side, then installed the BPV with a longer hose to the throttle body. Works like a charm, well at least there is no sign that it is NOT working. I've always found the functioning BPV to be a very subtle difference as compared to not having one at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My car has an auto trans so I don't think it really needs to have a dump valve though if/when I do a manual trans retrofit I will look into that.

How did you handle relocating the engine oil cooler (assuming you needed to)? My car has the older type mounted on the upright of the radiator support member under the left headlight. It's hoses are right in the way of where the intercooler will sit. I've got another identical oil cooler here which I'll get some new hoses made up for to mount on the right side. That will also open up more airflow for the intercooler when it's fitted.

As for the air filter box, my car's filter box can only mount one way on the bracket that holds it, and I had the venturi style of intake pipe which I believe might be an Australia-only setup. I have a snorkel type that I fitted to my 16V car (just like what you have in the pic) and I want to join one of those to the 8V filter box if I can. I'm aware that the way the K-jet metering assembly sits on top of the filter box means it can be secured any way around to the top of the box.

I will probably get a stock 16V air filter box and stock 8V one from a wrecker and compare the two so I can work out the best way to mod one to do what I want. I don't think the top section of the 16V one can mount to the top of the 8V one or vice-versa.

Craig.
 

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I will probably get a stock 16V air filter box and stock 8V one from a wrecker and compare the two so I can work out the best way to mod one to do what I want. I don't think the top section of the 16V one can mount to the top of the 8V one or vice-versa.
If you can get your hands of a Lucas 16v air filter box, use the lower section only. The top section of your 8v air filter box bolts right on, and the intake faces rearwards.
 

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How is it that the airfilter canistor won't rotate? I'm curious to see a photo if you could. As I said, with mine you can just rotate it since the outlet hole is exactly the correct size to connect the intake snorkel from a 16 valve and it is held on by a band clamp which then attaches to the car. No matter what filter box you have, the same problem will always arise which is that the crankcase ventilation hose interferes with that intake snorkel and must be relocated upstream of the turbo. I'll see if I can post a photo of what my airfilter canistor looks like without anything else in he way.

As for the oil cooler, mine did not have one since it started live as an N/A model. I think I'd just pull one from a 16 valve including the hoses if it were me.
 

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If you need other ideas, check in the local junkyard Volvo 740/760/940 turbos. The 700 had oil coolers that were bolted to the side of the radiator; there is nothing stopping you from, say, putting it in front of the radiator. The 900s started using the radiator as its cooler... like a late 80s VW. THey seem to work fine for them. And the parts should all interchange between the 3 cars; I know as a fact a VW oil cooler has the same thread/pitch as the VOlvo and Saab.

Just more ideas...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you need other ideas, check in the local junkyard Volvo 740/760/940 turbos. The 700 had oil coolers that were bolted to the side of the radiator; there is nothing stopping you from, say, putting it in front of the radiator. The 900s started using the radiator as its cooler... like a late 80s VW. THey seem to work fine for them. And the parts should all interchange between the 3 cars; I know as a fact a VW oil cooler has the same thread/pitch as the VOlvo and Saab.

Just more ideas...
I have considered the Volvo 760 type intercoolers however I don't want to hack at or modify the metalwork of the radiator support member in order to get piping to/from a FMIC of that sort, so I'm thinking that a T16 intercooler is a better starting point for intercooling my otherwise non-intercooled 8V engine.

Craig.
 

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How would that work? Really tricky plumbing? How effective would it be right next to the downpipe/exhaust manifold?
I was wondering the same thing on two intercoolers and the one on the passenger side. It would be a breeze to put just one intercooler on the passenger side but no one does it, b/c I presume the heat from the exhaust would make the benefits limited. If you heat wrap the downpipe? maybe?

I haven't taken a close look at my saab yet but I don't think one up front (like an fmic) is that feasible w/o cutting up the front valence or some of the supports. I would prefer this way even if the intercooler is real small though and the piping doesn't have to look like a drunk man driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How is it that the airfilter canistor won't rotate? I'm curious to see a photo if you could. As I said, with mine you can just rotate it since the outlet hole is exactly the correct size to connect the intake snorkel from a 16 valve and it is held on by a band clamp which then attaches to the car. No matter what filter box you have, the same problem will always arise which is that the crankcase ventilation hose interferes with that intake snorkel and must be relocated upstream of the turbo. I'll see if I can post a photo of what my airfilter canistor looks like without anything else in he way.

As for the oil cooler, mine did not have one since it started live as an N/A model. I think I'd just pull one from a 16 valve including the hoses if it were me.
I don't recall if my 81 turbo car has holes pre-made to mount the under-body type of engine oil cooler but it may have. My 16V n/a car has an under-body ATF cooler but you could be on the right track with a 16V style of engine oil cooler.

I'll check again about the air filter box. and see if it will rotate without a problem.

Craig.
 
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