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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, I am finally posting an intercooler DIY with lots of pics.
First off I am not a professional, I do not profess to be one, and I AM NOT responsible for any damages done to your car, parts, tools, or yourself. I only advise this to people who are mechanically inclined EX: if you don't know how to change your oil or brake pads DO NOT try this. this is simple but it can be easy to mess up.

INTERCOOLER SIZE USED: 27x10x3 2.5in inlets

There will be enough photos on here i have more linked in my flickr account
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157623963903454/

tools that will be needed:
-floor jack
-flat head and Phillips head screw driver
-t25 and t40 torque screw drivers
-pliers
-saw
-10mm wrench or socket
-6 hose clamps 2 1/4-2 3/4 min
-1 breaker bar for the t40 torque
optional but possibly necessary (not shown in image below)
two 3in long 2.5in diameter pieces of pipe
two 2.5in silicone hose's


This DIY will be in sections
1.bumper removal
2. upper radiator support removal and placement
3. stock intercooler removal
4. new intercooler placement


Section 1.
The first thing you need to do to remove your bumper is remove the top six plugs (as shown below)

A good method of removing these without breaking them is to twist a flat head screw driver under the tab while assisting the other side up (as shown below)

Once all the tabs are removed it is time to start on the side of the wheel wells removing the screws within them. For this you will need a Phillips head screw drive and a t25 torque. To make this simple turn your steering wheel to the left or right to give you more room. Start on either side you wish. There are 3 screws along the bumper that use the t25 and one at the bottom that is a Phillips head. Remove all the screws and place safely off to the side. (images below)
screw at the top of the wheel well


screws in the lower wheel well

3 torque screws and one Phillips


Once the screws have been removed it is time to start on the bottom. There are 3 screws on either side, all should be Phillips head. (images listed below)
I only use one screw on either side just to hold the mud flap in place.
2 screws here

1 screw in the back


Once you have removed the screws from both sides it is time to remove the bumper itself. You start on the passenger side pulling out the side of the bumper, then you pull where the upper part of the head light is outwards it should release if it does not bump it with your palm. After you have released the passenger side replace the bumper back on so it is resting at the top of the grill (do not push back in). Next do the same to the left side. CAUTION be careful here because once the bumper releases it drops down which can pull the head light washer hoses off and cause a leak. once the bumper is off, rest the bumper on the ground and rotate it towards the drivers side to give you more room. (images show below)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·



Section 2.
Now that your bumper is off we are free to remove the upper radiator support. For this you will need 10mm wrench and t40 torque. First thing is to remove all the 10mm bolts at the top of the radiator support there are 6 on each side (Note for the head light which bolt/washer goes where).

Once all the bolts are removed you need to use your t40 torque to unscrew the hood release support(CAUTION: often these bolts are rusted to the nuts, so in order to keep from stripping the head I recommend that instead of using brute force tap the wrench to break the bolt loose)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After you have removed the bolts clean off the surrounding area and make sure that you have taken off your batter box cover as well as the air channel. Next you need to remove the upper support, a good technique is to push back and lift up. The support first needs to clear the head light brackets before it can be pulled up (Note once you pull up the support do not lift it higher than you need and be cautionary of the hood release cable, also make sure you disconnect you horn). Once off to the side undo the two nuts that hold the hood support brace with a 10mm wrench.



Section 3.
Now that we have removed the upper support it is time to remove that stock intercooler. The stock intercooler sit in the middle of the radiator and the ac condenser it is held in buy t25 screws. Remove the screws at the top of the intercooler and the front of the AC condenser. Once you have removed the screws look at the side of the radiator and unscrew the t25 screws that hold in place the ac condenser.

After you have done that the next thing to do is to unscrew the stock hose clamps of the intercooler (NOTE your stock clamps might be rusted and need to be sawed off be very cautious if you need to). If you need more room unscrew the side panels with a 10 mm wrench and press the clip in to release it, do this for both sides if necessary(as shown below).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Once everything has been released pull off the hoses and jack up the car on the passengers side. Now comes the tricky bit, once in the air pull up on the ac condenser panel pulling it out of the tabs in the intercooler once out pull UP on the intercooler then slowly lower it down trying to avoid getting caught on anything in the way. After the intercooler has been freed you will need to undo the two supports that hold the oil cooler as well as unscrewing all the bracketing that holds the oil cooler(as seen below) remove the whole bracket with a 10mm wrench and pull out.

After the brackets are removed the intercooler should drop to the ground (NOTE if not try and move the intercooler around or pull the ac condenser forward) as soon as the intercooler drops try and pull it out from the bottom jack the car up as necessary in order to get the cooler out.

Section 4.
Now that we have successfully removed the stock intercooler it is time to get the new one in, but first we need to push the ac condenser back and put the screws in the top in order to attaching it to the radiator. now comes the new intercooler (Note i HIGHLY advise getting the optional stuff needed ex: silicone hose and 2.5in piping it will make everything much easier). If you have the new silicon hosing attach it to the intercooler prior to sticking it on making sure you tighten your hose clamp down tight. If not just go ahead and stick the new intercooler up in the cooler area pressing against the ac condenser and the oil cooler on the face of the intercooler using the jack to support it attach your stock hoses to both sides and tighten down your hose clamps (Note if they stock hosing does not fit your intercooler you WILL need the silicone hosing and piping). If your stock hosing does not fit, pre attach the silicone hosing and go ahead and place it in. Next take a piece of 2.5in piping and stick it into the stock intercooler hosing and tighten it down. After it is in stick the other end into the silicone hosing and tighten down again. Now the last step is to put the oil cooler support brackets back on bending them till your intercooler sits straight and at the proper level. Then your done! step back and admire what you have just done after your done staring reassemble the car piece by piece in the reverse order given. (sorry for no pictures at the end)

thanks guys, and if there is anything missing tell me, or if you have a question ask.
 

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Good stuff Paco! This will deffinately make things easier so Thank You. Keep us posted on the rest of the stuff so far it looks pretty good. :cool:
 

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You have more patience than me. I can't stand stopping to take photos of everything.

Mods, please sticky this ASAP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You have more patience than me. I can't stand stopping to take photos of everything.

Mods, please sticky this ASAP.
took me from 12 to 430 to do it all :D i think the thing that mad me mad the most was the picture limit because i had to respond like 3 times i was afraid someone would respond in between my diy posting.
 

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Well looking at your pictures the only thing I worry about is the kink on the hoses coming off the intercooler. Have those been straightened out now?
 

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The rubber hoses in the last 2 pics, is that something that is there stock, or did you change to that? Also, the rubber pipe looks squweshes (?) as it comes from the intercooler and goes into the engine bay. Does it straighten out, cause that would be a serious flow problem...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well looking at your pictures the only thing I worry about is the kink on the hoses coming off the intercooler. Have those been straightened out now?
no i have not straightened them out yet my plan is to cut the hose and add a joining pipe, because the original stance of the hosing was almost 90 degrees cutting it and rotating it would make less kinked, also it will allow me to get the rubber hose farther on the piping. But its not my main concern it does not seem that it is pinching enough to inhibit flow there is still a good inch of space for the air to flow. i figure when i go back in for intercooler spray setup i will fix it but until then unless it pops off I am not going to worry about it. Actually in fact the other side was way more problematic it popped off twice, but that is partially because i stretched it some in order to try and fit it to the intercooler. once i fix it (possibly this weekend) i will edit my post to add it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The rubber hoses in the last 2 pics, is that something that is there stock, or did you change to that? Also, the rubber pipe looks squweshes (?) as it comes from the intercooler and goes into the engine bay. Does it straighten out, cause that would be a serious flow problem...lol
the black hose is the stock hosing, and the blue is from silicone hose.net i picked it up at my local speed shop for about 21 bucks for both hoses. i will say again i am almost positive that the bend does not inhibit flow i will find out next week when i bump up my boost to 18-20 psi. if it blows off on that side i will do the fix and edit my post to include the new fix
 

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the black hose is the stock hosing, and the blue is from silicone hose.net i picked it up at my local speed shop for about 21 bucks for both hoses. i will say again i am almost positive that the bend does not inhibit flow i will find out next week when i bump up my boost to 18-20 psi. if it blows off on that side i will do the fix and edit my post to include the new fix
You the man...and nice write up!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You the man...and nice write up!
thanks man just edited it forgot to add the core size ;oops:. and to any mod or saba i think it would be a help to sticky this into "performance modification faq" under intercooler. Expect an update tommarow or sunday possiably about the kink. k thx bye :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Any pics with the new intercooler on it? How does the car feel with the new fmic?
it is on all the pics are after i had done it a while ago sorry for no straight up shots.
the car feels the same i could tell it was heat soaked today but it was definantly not as bad as it use to get.
 

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great write up man!!

question: what length intercooler do u think will fit with no couplers, only stock pipe? 30inch, 32inch, 34inch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
great write up man!!

question: what length intercooler do u think will fit with no couplers, only stock pipe? 30inch, 32inch, 34inch?
the normal 27 inch long will work just fine to be honest it just a matter of getting the stock couplings on and actually if you cannot fit your stock couplings on to something say 32 34 inches and you need to get new couplings and piping you might run out of room. But if you wanted to just support the intercooler on the oil cooler stands i would add about 3 to 4 inches on each side the couplings are 3.5 inches. you can go wider if you want again stock couplings will fit 27 in you just have to get them on first.
 

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Hey man good for you. Good write up as well. As for the piping, why not just get some 90* bends off the intercooler and cut the hose to fit those? Maybe something a little less than 90* would be good. Have you figured that part out yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey man good for you. Good write up as well. As for the piping, why not just get some 90* bends off the intercooler and cut the hose to fit those? Maybe something a little less than 90* would be good. Have you figured that part out yet?
well first cuz im poor now that i have spend around 4 to 5 hundred dollars on car parts in the past 3 weeks so i dont have the money right now seeing as a 90* is about 20 to 30 bucks a peice i think i can wait. but that should work
 
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