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In the 9000 the fuse for the T5 valve does not always protect the sytems, as I found out to my cost.

if you go with a T7 valve, be aware the software in the ECU needs a slight tweak to make the T7 valve work, and there is also a small hardware, wiring modification in the ecu that needs to be done.

In the fusing of the DI etc, I can not comment.

Regards

robin
yes, I'm aware of the ECU/software modifications. And there's also a suggested safe diode for the T7 BPC. Haven't had it installed on my C900 with T5 and no problems yet...
I've made one conversion in my life but I'd like to make the next one more precise to the original requirements of the 9000 diagrams..
 

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Aha, you know what you are doing then!

I never used the diode mod on my 97 9000 CD LPT.
All was well, there has been some debate as to whether it is needed.
I did 50,000km in it before I sold it.
 

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Discussion Starter #463
Problems with idle and Map sensor code.

My idle was crazy for about a month until I got around to fixing it last weekend. I was getting Map sensor code with the OBDII code reader. The idle was so bad I unplugged the AIC valve.

Talked with Mike D and did two things that fixed my problems. First was to clean up the ground lug at the intake manifold. Mike suggested replacing the single wire ground lug as he has seen problems with this lug. That didn't fix my idle but took care of it being a problem in the future.

What fixed the idle and made the map sensor code go away was to remove the throttle body and clean the butterfly and housing area with carb cleaner and a toothbrush.

Car is back to running beautifully.

Don't forget the simple things.
 

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Great little PSA Sven! I've only got a few big items planned for the 85 this spring, so hoping to get a lot of these little detail items you mention all sorted out.
 

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It's always the small things that get you in the end :)
I'm close to being done with my wiring harness, just short an 02 sensor and some power-connections before I should be able to fire my monte carlo up... Hopefully will manage before the weather gets too hot!
/Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter #466
Great little PSA Sven! I've only got a few big items planned for the 85 this spring, so hoping to get a lot of these little detail items you mention all sorted out.
The throttle body and butterfly were coated with a carmel veneer of oil. Probably from the turbo blowby last summer when it started a smoke filled death during the convention in Redmond.
 

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I was in the process of building the wiring harness for my T5 conversion and discovered a grey plug for the AC that doesn't have much information on the web. I created this video to help anyone else that wants to keep the AC working like stock and re-use the plug.

https://youtu.be/eb0AuhE12WM

The only thing I did not cover is where to put the wires in the T5 harness.
This is straight forward.
The ECU has pin 59 for AC ON wire for the red/white AC signal on wire.
You no longer need the blue full-throttle shut off wire.
Grey/Red goes to relay pack.
Red goes to AC compressor
Green/white goes to relay pack

I did make one mistake in the video. The green/white wire does not supply +15, it also ties into the relay pack to supply +15 to the AC relay.
(+15 is switched power)
 

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Discussion Starter #468
Replacing Mosfets on Motherboard

Finally got around to replacing the bad mosfet(s) on the mother board. You can find them dirt cheap on the web. After they were soldered in I epoxed them into place. Some might think it is a waste of time but this box has new flash chips plus the T7 conversion. I always like to fix first rather than start over with another box.

Finally got to enjoy Mike D's tune from last summer. Great boost to 18 psi and smooth ramp up.

New Mosfets:



Coat of Epoxy:



My #1 box:

 

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I'm doing my conversion with a harness from a 1995 NG900 convertible and an ECU from a 96/97/98 NG900.

Could anybody confirm if pin 20 and 57 (PK map sensor OUT and Throttle Position Signal OUT) are not needed?

I've seen in a few threads that they are listed as being needed. OP of this thread says it's needed, page 4/post 61 says it's needed and to add a wire in for it if there isn't one but they both appear to be outputs from the ecu to the body connector (For SID?) and I can't see any use for them. They're completely separate from the wires going from the sensor into the ECU.

Anyhow, modified pinout for the 1995 NG900 harness:

Pinnumber Color Description Range In/out
1 Pink/white +30 (power supply) +12 Volt In (Also connected to pin 48 in body connector)
2 Black/Green Boost pressure control valve Out
3 Green/White Injector 1 Out
4 Blue/White Injector 2 Out
5 Purple/White Injector 3 Out (Also spliced into a solid green wire in the body connector. Assuming this is for SID fuel efficiency readout)
6 Gray/White Injector 4 Out
7 N/C
8 N/C, Knock detect (knock indicator) Switches to GND Out
9 Black/Orange Trigger 1 Out (To DIC Connector)
10 Green/Yellow Trigger 2 Out (To DIC Connector)
11 Blue/Red Trigger 3 Out (To DIC Connector)
12 Orange/Gray Trigger 4 Out (To DIC Connector)
13 N/C (Engine torque limitation in)
14 N/C (Orange Drive In)
15 Purple Brake light switch In
16 N/C
17 Yellow/Brown Combustion cylinder 1+2 In (To DIC Connector)
18 Red/Brown Combustion cylinder 3+4 In (To DIC Connector)
20 Pink MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) signal +5 Volt Out (Goes from ECU to body connector, not sure if this is needed?)
21 Yellow/Gray, runs from pin 21 to pin 27
22 Brown/Blue MAP sensor input signal 0 – 5 Volt In
23 Green Oxygen sensor 1 (front lambda sonde) In
24 Black Main ground In
25 Black Main ground In
26 Blue Boost pressure control valve Out
27 Yellow/Gray EVAP canister purge valve Out
28 N/C, EVAP canister close valve Out
29 N/C, Heat plate activation relay Out
30 N/C
31 Blue/Gray Main relay Out
32 Green/Yellow Check engine Out
33 Black/Gray Diagnosis In/Out
34 N/C
35 Yellow/Black Engine load signal out (runs to body connector)
36 Green/Blue Cruise control In
37 N/C
38 N/C
39 Black/Pink Speed signal In
40 N/C
41 Yellow Crankshaft position sensor In
42 White/Brown Throttle position sensor Out
43 Gray MAP sensor Out
44 Orange Knock signal In (Goes to DIC Connector)
45 Green/Brown Throttle position sensor In
46 Black/White Intake air temperature sensor In
47 Black Oxygen sensor, reference ground In
48 Pink/White +30 (power supply) +12 Volt In (Connected to pin 1 in body connector)
49 Blue/Purple Idle air control valve (AIC) Out
50 Black Oxygen sensor 1, preheating Out
51 N/C
52 N/C, YE/WH Vacuum pump, brake system Out
53 N/C
54 Red/White A/C out Out
55 Blue/Yellow Shift up light (switches to GND) Out
56 White Fuel pump relay Out
57 Gray/Brown Throttle position signal Out (Not sure if needed, goes from ECU to body connector).
58 Green/Red Engine speed signal (RPM) Out
59 Green/Gray A/C in In
60 Gray/Yellow +15 (switched power supply, ignition contact) In
61 N/C
62 White/Black CANH (CAN bus high signal) In/Out
63 Brown CANL (CAN bus low signal) In/Out
64 N/C
65 Yellow Programming voltage +16 Volt In
66 Black Reference ground for engine coolant temp. sensor 0 Volt In (Goes to body connector ground, same as 67)
67 Black/white Sensor ground 0 Volt Out (Goes to body connector ground, same as 66)
68 Yellow/White Engine coolant temperature sensor In
69 N/C
70 N/C

I had some confusion about the oxygen sensor, as one wire from the sensor was leading to the body connector and one of the wires from the ECU that said "oxygen sensor reference ground" was leading to the main ground under the hood on the intake manifold.

Searched a bit and this is what I came up with:

Pin 23 - signal from oxygen sensor to ECU

Pin 47 - Reference ground for oxygen sensor, leads FROM ECU to ground under the hood on the intake manifold

Pin 50 - Preheater ground, goes from oxygen sensor to ECU. ECU pulls this pin to ground to enable the preheater

Body connector wire (Gray/White) - goes from oxygen sensor to the body connector. This provides power to the preheater, it should be connected to the fuel pump relay so it is always receiving power when the car is running.


EDIT: I'm assuming that the fat green/red wire going to the DIC, a few sensors and all injectors is power? from what I've read it sounds like the ECU pulls the injectors/DIC to ground to fire them.
 

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Discussion Starter #471
20 and 57 are blank. The first post is locked and can't be changed. Go by the wiring harness diagram. On my harness for the MAP sensor, Grey goes to ground, white/black to pin 22, green/red to pin 43.

About the O2 sensor you are correct. I later added the preheater fused power and reference ground from ECU for the O2 sensor. It worked without it but I wanted the system to be at stock.

When I first did the write up in 2009 we were still figuring everything out. It took a couple of years to work out what was missing and what was needed. Of course Mike D took the lead for most of this work.
 

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When I first did the write up in 2009 we were still figuring everything out. It took a couple of years to work out what was missing and what was needed. Of course Mike D took the lead for most of this work.
Wow over six years ago. I still remember building the first cps prototype in the shop like it was yesterday. Learned a lot on that project. Fifty kits later and the rest is history...
 

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Discussion Starter #473
Of course. The original write up was to highlight the option of using your kit to T5 a 900 and to add some detail to what Mike D had written on the subject. Your kit was so good it got copied and marketed elsewhere. You are the design and machining guru.
 

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Thanks, been looking at old threads on every website and cross referencing them with each other. Just waiting on a small combo relay/fuse box to finish up the wiring, then I'll probably be bugging Squaab for a trigger wheel kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #475
Thanks, been looking at old threads on every website and cross referencing them with each other. Just waiting on a small combo relay/fuse box to finish up the wiring, then I'll probably be bugging Squaab for a trigger wheel kit.
Are you in the Seattle area? Give us a heads up and we will come and help with the install. We have done several.
 

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Thanks for the offer, I'm over in Anacortes. I think I've got it figured out for the most part, just waiting on parts and a wheel bearing (It's so bad the whole wheel wobbles side to side).

Definitely going to try to make it to the next meetup though, hopefully have it back together and looking pretty by then. And it would be nice to see MMOE again, assuming he's not busy and still in the 900 game :)
 
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