SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Help?

It's Never bad to the point where its dangerous.

But I just wish it was the same all the Time Any Ideas? on where the Look?

New Rotors, New Pads, New Front Lines, The Brake flush and Bleed from Hell.

I'm thinking of replacing the other three calipers. and then the Power Booster But I'm really just not sure anymore.

AnyBody Else want to swap cars for a day or five minutes or just drive my car So I think I'm not crazy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check the front retainer springs for proper installation. Popular mistake.
Elaborate? are you talking about the ones for for the front calipers?

i'm like 99% sure there on right because if they weren't i would have noise, but i'll hear every lil last thing out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18,925 Posts
Look for another brake thread in the last two weeks... someone had the same problem and some photos were posted by another guy here.

If the springs are wrong you get a mushy pedal, no other symptoms.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
556 Posts
Can you better elaborate on your pedal inconsistencies? I've repaired many brake problems and maybe I can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,185 Posts
Sounds like you found the problem. But, when adding new rotors you MUST spray them down with brake cleaner to get the protective coating they ship with off the rotor. They're coated to prevent surface rust occurring while they sit for upwards of a year before being sold. If the cleaning job is NOT thorough, the oils will get on the pads and increase stopping difficulty. Another thing to check is for weak rubber lines. Usually need the car on ramps and have some apply firm pressure and look for weak spots in the rubber. Also, it's usually best (in other cars at least) to bleed the brakes with the car off, starting from the caliper furthest from the driver/master cylinder on LHD cars. Not sure if that would translate to furthest from the passenger seat in RHD cars or not? Another thing to consider is gravity bleeding the brakes overnight while the car sits. This is typically the best way to make sure ALL the air is evacuated from the lines. Need 4 catch cans, 4 sections of hose to attach to the bleeder nipple and drip into a catch can. Crack them open and let them bleed off. Top off the reservoir every so often and do not allow it to go dry. Obviously this takes awhile, but is super easy to do and only needs one person. If the master cylinder is actually failing, then it'll be impossible to fully bleed them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Truste Me when i say this I know how to do brakes..

So the pedal feels better...

And when I bleed the brakes I have A suction bleeder and for the record a pressure bleeder is the best way to bleed brakes.

Now I'm still thinking that either my Brake Booster is "dying" I'm almost positive there is no air in the system.

What I want to make a big point of is that the brakes are fine for the every day driver.. and the car brakes fine, But I feel as if the pedal should be much firmer & sensitive, then it currently is.

but regardless keep throwing stuff at me
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top