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And I decided ( I generally oil my cars underneath in the fall) but I put it off with the Saab as I am going to drop the front cradle to replace bushings and oil Undercoating makes it an unbelievable messy pita job.
And I took the opportunity to remove the rear inner fender liner to check the rear dogleg for rust based on a few comments on here. ( no dog leg rust ). But the plastic nuts on the retain studs when I tried to remove broke the studs. Mimmi told me the inner fender is double walled so I fearlessly drilled out and installed 5 mm rivnuts using stainless button head bolts and larger diameter washers to replace liner after treating any rust spots behind with rust paint and fluid film corrosion resistant sprayed into the threaded holes. The rear shock mounts and rear springs I already powdercoated when I installed new shocks ages ago. Powdercoat works very well.
The problem with the plastic nuts maybe using a 1/4 drive impact driver to remove rather than a hand ratchet driver , is shocking the studs and causing them to yield. The rocker panel covers are a similar problem. I was worried about rust underneath the rocker panel covers , but the way Saab built them the sill cover does not follow the metal rocker cover exactly , there is about two inches air gap. That’s important. Domestic GM vehicles like gen 1 Avalanche and most Pontiacs with plastic cladding the cladding is a flush fit to the steel underneath and it makes for total corrosion failure over time.
 

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Filter on a stick. Periodically people on here talk about doing it. Incredible waste of time as the filter clogs in weeks , has terrible small particulate filtering and is prone to water damage and heat soak. Can’t beat the stock filter. Of course some folks want turbo” woosh / psssst”. So good luck with that. Even the connector terminal was corroded on this customers car.
 

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Finally here is the F35 quaife 6 speed conversion on my redline for all you manual Saab drivers who dream of close ratio super strong transmissions. Tip: gears are noisy as fark It’s reinforced , with a solid early style 3 rd gear spacer instead of a crush sleeve work that was pioneered iirc by Tailleferro BITD. Last photo is a stock OEM f35 gear set
 

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Plastic nuts could be removed by cheap solder iron. There are tips used for cutting ropes or foam. Burn a thin line in the nut down to the stud and the nut could be removed. Install new nut with some grease to reduce friction when tightening it.
 

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Plastic nuts could be removed by cheap solder iron. There are tips used for cutting ropes or foam. Burn a thin line in the nut down to the stud and the nut could be removed. Install new nut with some grease to reduce friction when tightening it.
Great idea. I broke two ( had already put penetrating oil on them) before I figured it out. Should have ordered new nuts from Maptun but the rivnut with stainless hardware is an elegant solution. Not as easy as new nuts assuming the threaded post doesn’t break off
 

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Rust stinks. For plastic nuts I’ve had success heating them with heat gun and using WD40 or similar getting them to loosen. Upon reassembly, use anti-seize on rusted threads and just snug them up.
 

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Plastic nuts costs only about 0.30€/pc.
 
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