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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New car (to me). Title says it all. Soaked it in WD40 overnight.

Any suggestions? Any intstructions for removing the entire ignition switch?
 

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in my case I can take key out even when driving ... and can turn the ignition with whatever ... screwdriver :cry:

the whole assembly to take away needs strange tool, like a tube that wall has been divided into six and every second part tken out - like a three finger tubular tool ... I got stopped at theses stupid screws ... wanted to see the ignition module as it is pretty hard to turn the key ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm guessing the lock that prevents you from removing the key while driving is stuck in on my car, and stuck out on your car. I'll have go at it tomorrow. I have to do a wheel bearing today.

More WD40 in the meantime. :)
 

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probably so, however, what`s the possibility to get it right ... or I am thinking that if I don`t need the key to put the ignition assembly to move, it might mean that it has been broken ...;oops:
 

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You need to be in reverse to get the key out (sorry if you knew that). You've probably got the ignition out of sync with the gear lever - it thinks it is in reverse but it isn't. Wiggle it about gently, try getting it fully into reverse - I think if you physically rock teh car forwards it can pop it in sometimes. This is reasonably common, so try a search as it has happened before.

Welcome to Saab Central :cool:
 

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You mean the ignition is designed so that the key can be taken out only when in reverse? I can take it out in what ever the gear is. But it might be so that there is something broken ...
 

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KurBads said:
You mean the ignition is designed so that the key can be taken out only when in reverse?
Yes. When the tumblers become worn in the ignition it sometimes means you can take it out in any gear. There's some latch that locks the lever in reverse which may have broken on your car.
 

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Atleast you didnt get the gearstick stuck so that the ignition key won't go in, and youre not stuck in reverse in a car park somewhere away from home!

Its fairly easy to fix it if you take the centre bit out and can release the reverse lock from underneath. You can get the funny nuts off with pliers/chisels or a screwdriver!.

Like Jezzadee says - There are plenty of writeup's if you do a search. I know ive written one in the past too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Still doesn't come out (even in reverse). I'll pull it apart...
 

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Kurbads, Your key is probably worn out. I just got new keys cut from code. But they would not fit in the ignition. The locksmith took a look at it and said that the key was not turned back to the lock position, It is hard to see because most of the lettering is worn off. I remeber hearing about the reverse lock so I put the old worn key back in put the car in reverse the lock turned all the way to lock, pulled the old key out and the new one worked perfectly.

I guess its pretty easy to steal an old 900. Just look to see if it is in reverse. If it is not all you need is a screw driver to start it
 

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First SAAB said:
I guess its pretty easy to steal an old 900. Just look to see if it is in reverse. If it is not all you need is a screw driver to start it
I was expermenting with what i could start my old one with and I think i even managed it with a paperclip once.

Saab locks are useless when they get older. If you have multiple saabs, you generally only need one key to drive them all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
24 hrs of WD-40 and my key pulled out. I didn't realize it had to got to L, which it would not do until it was soaked in oil.

I do not seem to have a reverse interlock, key comes out as long as it is turned fully ccw. It won't come out in the straight or CW position.

I'll check if a screwdriver will work to start it.
 

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See if the key travels more anti-clockwise in reverse than in another position. I had a battery drain issue on my 900 S. I was leaving the car in 1st and the key didn't go all the way to lock.
 

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The key barrel needs graphit greeze not WD40, that washes it away am afriad.

Your barrel is on its way out if you can turn it willy nilly and take the key out in any gear, its only a matter of time before the barrel falls apart and that is something you will have to get from a dealer, cost £77 if your lucky and a new key so another £7.50 i think.

Onces its gone your in a heep of you know what, lucky it happened to me outside my house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yes, I should have said it needs graphite, it needed WD-40 to wash out all the crap that it had accumulated over the years, then a blast of compressed air, and then graphite...
 

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I put WD40 down mine once a week. 14 years old and it still works.

[frantically searches for some wood to touch]
 

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Three sided nuts on shift consol usually can be removed without special tools.

Don't let the three sided nuts thwart your repair attempts. Sometimes they are only slightly torqued in which case a center punch or drift punch can loosen them, or use a long nosed pliers (with a lifetime guarantee of course! :D
I made the modified 11mm socket but found that I really didn't need it as the nuts were not that tight.
Recycle the three point nuts and replace with good old 6 sided variety.
As was said, there is plenty on this subject.
I replaced my ignition tumbler with a free used one and was glad I did.
Once you take the whole thing apart and clean and lube it, its a pleasure to use.
 

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drg23 said:
crikey jezz, what time do you get up to monitor the forums?

have a peice o wood for luck :lol:
We country folk are early risers :cheesy:

Nice looking bit of wood, that. Good firm grain, pleasing blond colour. Right, I'm off to muck out the goats and service the heifer :)
 
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