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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a few problems with the indicators - but they're semi-predictable.

Whenever I've been near the indicator wiring - dash removal, and fitting towbar electrics today - the indicators sulk. Nothing whatsoever. Then they come back. When they're back, they stay working until next time. It really does need me poking around to knock 'em out.

I had thought it was probably a case of disturbing stuff behind the dash - but I didn't go near it today, only in the rear clusters, and shoving the hazards on to test the wiring. The hazards ALWAYS work fine, even when the indicators are sulking.

Could it be a flaky hazard switch? It's about the only constant factor that I can think of. Of course, they never STAY sulking for long enough for me to grab the multimeter...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
TooMany2cvs said:
Could it be a flaky hazard switch?
Looking at Bentley, it looks like it could EASILY be a flaky hazard switch. But, of course, US wiring differs as always, with the "cornering lamps"...

Anybody this side of the pond confirm likelihood?
 

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TooMany2cvs said:
I'm having a few problems with the indicators - but they're semi-predictable.

Whenever I've been near the indicator wiring - dash removal, and fitting towbar electrics today - the indicators sulk. Nothing whatsoever. Then they come back. When they're back, they stay working until next time. It really does need me poking around to knock 'em out.

I had thought it was probably a case of disturbing stuff behind the dash - but I didn't go near it today, only in the rear clusters, and shoving the hazards on to test the wiring. The hazards ALWAYS work fine, even when the indicators are sulking.

Could it be a flaky hazard switch? It's about the only constant factor that I can think of. Of course, they never STAY sulking for long enough for me to grab the multimeter...
If the car is a 4-door sedan version, and you've been working at the rear light clusters, check the rear earthing first. It's a very common problem. Due to the high current flow when using normal bulbs, eventually the earth connections to the light clusters at the back in 4-door sedans (esp. the left-side one) start to melt and burn due to increased contact resistance over time. I've got this problem covered here so have a look and see if that is the problem you're having with the car.

If the car isn't a 4-door sedan version or it is and all the earth wiring to the rear clusters has already been sorted out (by a previous owner), see if you can buy or borrow a used replacement indicator switch and try that out. You might also want to look the earth point that's somewhere between the front seats. I think but I'm not certain that some of the dash wiring grounds down there.

Craig.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
c900 said:
If the car is a 4-door sedan version
It's not. It's a 3-dr.

and you've been working at the rear light clusters, check the rear earthing first.
When the indicators are working, everything's working fine.
When they're not, everything else is working fine, but the indicators are TOTALLY out. This is the first time I've touched the rear clusters, but about the third the indicators have done this.

If the car isn't a 4-door sedan version or it is and all the earth wiring to the rear clusters has already been sorted out (by a previous owner), see if you can buy or borrow a used replacement indicator switch and try that out.
<groan> Hope not. It's got cruise, so is the complicated switch. I don't think it's the switch, though. I know it's no real guarantee, but the switch feels right and - when they're working - they're absolutely 100% predictable. It really "feels" like a power supply problem south of the switch, as both sides behave the same.
 

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If things don't work, it's the power: if things don't work properly, it's the earth.

That's the way I approach wiring problems first of all.
 

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Did you ever get this sorted out Adrian? Same thing happened to me coming home tonight. Indicators-a-no-go. Hazards worked fine and they also flash if I deliberatlely set the alarm off. Looked at the diagrams in Haynes & Bentley and figured it has to be the hazard switch. Went out switched the hazards on 3 or 4 times, with vigour shall we say, and they started working again. Just want to know if its a matter of getting the switch out and redoing the connections or getting a new switch altogther.
 
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