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Discussion Starter #1
I think I found the Deal of the Year!

Hi Everyone,

As you can tell this is my first post. So here was the deal. Today I bought a 96' SAAB 900 s for $299.00 (I gave him $300 and told him to keep the change) here was the link~>
http://tampa.craigslist.org/car/478986488.html

At first thought it had to be a typo. But it wasn't! So I bought it. He told me it needed a clutch and after talking to him I came to think it's just the master cylinder or maybe bad linkage. It won't go into gear and the pedal goes to to the floor without any restiance.

I'm having the car towed home now so I'll be getting greasy here in a few.

Wish me luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Yeah I'm really happy today. I hope it will be an easy fix. The guy was ex-miltary and had it imported here to the US from Germany. Will this cause a problem when I'm getting parts for it or are they all the same?
 

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That is a sweet deal for a 96! Not sure if you know that you are in the wrong forum. This is for the classic 900's the NG900 forum is the one you want. happy saabing!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Opps, I was wondering about that. I only saw the years went up to 94 then It jumped up for 97 and above. Is there a mod here who can move my post. I hope this isn't a sign of things to come lol. But anyways thanks for the heads up.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

The 94-95-96 NG900 does not have a hydraulic clutch. Normally, it takes a good foot to press the clutch pedal.
If the pedal goes to the floor easily, AND if the car will not go into gear, good chance the the clutch cable just broke. It is very common on this model.

You may be able to fix this for about $50-60 parts, and a skinned knuckle or two, getting the new one in place!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
oh man, this would be sweet if that turns out to be the problem. He said it happend to him at the airport when he was driving up to parking (I know where he is talking about and it is about a 45 degree incline) I'm going threw your FAQ now waiting for it to get here so I know where to start looking. One thing that does worry me is that he wasn't there when it was towed and it was in reverse and from what I'm reading this can cause damage. I hope nor BTW thanks nutcase!
 

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If it "just happens" it is usually the cable, giving way somewhere along its length. Basically if the pedal goes down, and the arm on top of the transmission does not move, the cable broke, or the automatic adjustor gave way, or the support bracket broke off.



Mine broke at the point labeled "2" in the diagram, meaning at the arm. Broken cable end, and new cable side by side:



I replaced mine with the oem cable, but there are several alternatives posted in threads here. When you see what happened, just post a new thread, you will get lots of suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well its here and it looks like I might be in luck. the cable has a ton of slack on it. i can pull the cable off the link at the transmisson with my hand. having a hard time getting the fuse box off thou. calling napa before it gets to late.
 

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Fuse box nut:



Hood switch connector:



Pull of the rubber molding on the edge of the engine compartment, wiggle the fuse box and pull it up. You may also have to cut a plastic cable tie on the bundle of wires coming out. Then swing the fuse box aside.



You can now see the cable and adjuster at the firewall, and if you follow the cable down, the supporting bracket and bolt.



Follow the cable, and the next support point is on top of the transmission, after that, the cable end at the arm.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the tips. I finally got the box out of the way. Turns out I took the wrong nut off. A leaf was covering the one i needed to take out. Had my tumb on a fuse when removing and it popped out now when i put the fuse back in it feels really loose. working on the linkage now @ pedal looks like there is a clip that you have to pull towards yourself?
 

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There is a spring at the pedal. Usually called the pedal-return spring, or something like that.



The end of the spring also keeps the plastic end of the cable in place, where it slips over the end of the pedal.



I used a stiff coat hanger wire cut and bent, large coat hanger hook over the steering wheel, and a small hook bent on the other end, to pull the spring away from the cable end, and keep it in place while swapping cables.

Small hook over the end of the spring pull toward the seat and up, then slip the large hook over the steering wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I found it easier after I took the cable off @ the trans to start taking it off @ the pedal (its alot looser) The spring at the pedal popped loose ,its dark out now so I'll start back @ it tomorrow. Napa did have the part. So hopefully I can get her back on the road tomorrow. Hopefully it does'nt need a clutch.

I had my girlfreind push the clutch pedal in while I was looking at the linkage at the trans and it was barely moving. You could see a ton of slack.

One thing I did notice was that the trans could go in gear when the engine was off. But when the engine is running it won't go into gear.

Last and on a side note I might get the tow bill for free. The tow truck driver started the car while it was in reverse and the car lurch backwards and took out the sellers garage door. I feel bad for the guy. It left a scuff mark on the bumper they say they are coming out on Monday to assessed the damaged to his house and my car. My girl says I responsible for the damages since I'm the owner of the car. We'll see on Monday.
 

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RedBull0808 said:
I had my girlfreind push the clutch pedal in while I was looking at the linkage at the trans and it was barely moving. You could see a ton of slack...
Hmmm, sounds a little off. Once you get the cable out and in good light, try to move the clutch release arm by hand. Normally it is quite stiff, close to impossible to move by hand on my car, even at 150K miles and with a worn clutch.

I mean, engine and everything off, just see how much movement there is in the arm, not connected to the cable. There should not be much. Most people have a little trouble getting the new cable back on the arm, because it is so hard to move.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, seems like I'm on the right track then.

I say this cause I could take the cable off @ the trans by hand. When I had it off I had my girl try to put it in gear when I was pushing the arm back towards the fire wall (as the cable pulls it) I was worried that it was as far as it goes and I might have other problems. (so if its stiff this is good):p

So long story short, the cable is only moving the arm @ the transmisson about an 1" (25.mm) @ the most.

Also the cable has this bullet looking end broke lose and free floating between the trans housing and the arm. I have the area high lighted in RED that I'm talking about
 

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RedBull0808 said:
Also the cable has this bullet looking end broke lose ...
That's just a soft rubber piece, it does not do anything mechanical, just covers part of the cable mechanism.

I don't remember how far the arm moves normally, unfortunately, but there should not be any slack in the cable there. You should be able to pull up on the cable between the arm and the transmission with your fingers a bit, and feel some resistance. When you let go, the slack should be taken right back up.

Edit:

I should have said this earlier... Keep the old cable. There are various tricks that people have posted here using parts from the old cable to create a better setup.

One improvement is to cut a slot in the old washer at the end at the firewall, and double up the washers on the new cable, to move the adjuster out slightly. (This is actually from a Saab TSB, and a very good idea.)

Another is to use the end of the cable at the transmission arm, and a Nissan clutch cable which is supposed to be stronger, to prevent future breaking of the cable (see recent threads in this Forum).

There are also a couple sources of manually adjustable cables, in case the Saab cable can't be made to work for some reason (for example the flimsy cable bracket).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Ok thanks for the tips, I finally got it out today, And it does need to be replaced. The end that mounts to the housing came apart and the housing of the cable pushed threw it. Also the sleeve of the cable split and is all mangled up.

I was able to get a new replacement @ Napa for $39.00. It didn't come w/a bracket so I'll use the old one. This replacement looks to have a adjustable nut. I'll leave it all the way in until I get it mounted then adjust it out to pick up any slack.

Hopefully she will be going into gear in abit and I can take her for a test drive!:p
 
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