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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just did an engine swap in a 93 9000 2.3 turbo it has the 4hp18 transmission.
when i tried to put it into gear nothing happened. I can feel it clicking into each position and the linkage at the tranny is moving like i think it should.
I'm new to saabs this is also the first fwd that i've worked on.
If this is the case is it possible to just put a new one in or would i need a new transmission?
Aany help will be much obliged!
-Matthew
 

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Sounds like you might have had the transmission off the engine and perhaps pulled the trans back up against the engine with the bolts without making sure the TC was freewheeling, and if that is the case you shattered the oil pump in the trans. That gives you 4 naturals. Not super hard to fix and you can purchase one from Ericson’s for probably 20.00 but you will need a gasket and seal. Basically the bell housing has to come off. In addition, you will need to flush the trans out really good, change filter and all that stuff, but the TC is most likely fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah i think thats why i felt a pop before the trans slid on real nice
so i need a new pump, gasket, and seal that it for parts?
Any tips on dropping it out the bottom?
And what is Ericson’s?
 

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http://www.erikssonindustries.com/ZF_items/5HP19FL/5hp19fl.htm is a supplier for ZFhp 18 transmissions. Contact them and they will help they are very cool. And yes the transmission needs to come back out. They come out through the driver wheel well. I usually block the motor up and just pull the trans without the overhead crane, but many people pull the trans and engine together. Good luck with your project and let me know if I can help
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got the wheel well opened up and the trans down to the 2 top bolts and the mount.
the more i look at it the more confused i am on how i'm actually gonna pull it out, its looks like it barely fits through and how am i supposed to hold it up?
 

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The best way to support it would a transmission jack. They also give the ability to level and adjust the trans for realignment. I am cheap so I made one by bolting a plywood platform to my small floor jack and them shimming for the leveling. I also used a cheap cloth banding tool to hold it down. BE extremely carefully not to damage the kick down cable. It is held in place by a nylon bushing and will snap at the trans. The cable is about 5 feet long and fixed to the trans. Just gently lie it on the trans and tie it with something loose. Make some kind of holding device to keep the TC in place as you slid the trans out. Have you unbolted the trans from the flex plate? Pull the complete strut out also. Unbolt it from under the hood and drop it out in one piece.

 

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The best way to support the engine is with an overhead boom of some sort. There are two ties on the motor to hook onto. Then you separate the trans from the motor and the motor is supported from the top. I have done it that way and it works well and when I did that way I also put some support under the engine. I did not have that luxury the last time and cut a 4x4 to length and put it under the engine which I am sure is not the safest way. Always remember safety first and make sure things are solid and do not trust a hydraulic jack over night, they usually fadeout. Anyways the creepy part of the trany removal is removing the sub-frame which creates a very large cantilever on the car. The front end hangs there. You will need jack stands positioned around the car. One under the driver jack point, one on the passenger side frame, and one up in the front passenger side also. You need a forest under the car. I also put the tires wheels and under the car just in case. Anyway, this is a very dangerous undertaking and it sounds like you do not have much experience, so read up on this and find someone with experience to be there. If you take short cuts, THIS is dangerous.
 
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