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Discussion Starter #24
its rather easy, instead of removing the whole thing all you have to do is bend it up so you have access to the area where the ecu is. All I do is remove weather stripping and lift up on the cowl and bend it out of the way just enough so it doesn't crack
In my experience all I have to do is 'look' at the cowl the wrong way and I break the clips that go under the windshield.

I'll give it a try (time to put my tune back in after addressing some issues) but if I break the clips I'll be back here whining. ;ol;

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Update - Hood finally open!!!

I finally got my hood open yesterday. It took me a good 2 hours of fiddling to get it open (not counting the time previously spent during other attempts). In the end, I was not as lucky as bob3000 who was able to pop the passenger side with a flat bar. I tried and tried that route but no luck. You're doing it blind.

After tearing apart both turn signal lights and the passenger side wheel well, taking off the air filter housing (which I discovered was cracked and big pieces missing :eek:)...I still hadn't found a way in.

So I went below. There is one place you can get an arm up and that's right next to the exhaust pipe so if you attempt this, make sure the engine is cool. As Bob3000 mentioned, you can get your arm up there an feel the cable sheath and possibly feel the driver side latch but you have no purchase or leverage at that angle.

Out of desperation (and mild frustration release) I just grabbed the cable and pulled real hard. PONG! that was enough to pop the passenger side! YAY! With that open I could finally see things a little better but still too hard to see the latch and hold a pipe on it (driver side) at the same time. Not to mention the MAF tubes get in the way.

Mild brain storm! I recruited my lovely wife for assistance. Basically I had her hold the end of a 1/2" x 4' piece of conduit pipe from the passenger side while I reached up from below. My job was to align the end of the pipe on the driver side latch. Her job was to push...and she had to push hard! I took 4-5 tries but we finally got it!

My problem is where the cable turns the corner at the front driver side. It was complete seized (rusted) at the end of the sheath under the clip. Fortunately the front cable portion was ok. For now I rigged up a temporary pull cable that is hidden under the drivers turn light. Temp until I get a new cable ordered, but at least now I can drive it without worry...and I finally got the oil changed. I'll quit with the saga now but hopefully these photos and description will help someone else. PITA!

First photo - seized cable. not only was it frozen but it was also acting as resistance when we were trying to manually pop the release which is why my wife had to push so hard.








new temp pull wire




 

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Discussion Starter #26
Congrats!

The conduit idea was genius, I'm surprised she had to push very hard maybe the cable is rusted between the two catches too.

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the cable between is fine and moves freely but the first 1" or so right at the bend on the drivers side was rusted firmly to the inner metal liner of the sheath and the cable itself was so rusty that it was as stiff as a rod. In the first picture you can see the cable didn't move at all with pressure applied to the release, the cable just bent, but it didn't go easy.

I ordered a new cable yesterday. Hopefully it's not that hard to install. Looks like it should be straight forward but I haven't studied how it passes through the firewall. I could probably leave it the way I have it but I'd feel better knowing I have the right solution installed. I don't want to have to go through this again.
 

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One more update. Ffinally received my new release cable and got it installed ;ol;. I was a little worried about threading it through the firewall because I couldn't see the hole from either side but it wasn't a big deal after all. I taped a piece of the old cable (cable only, not with sleeve) to the end leading into the cabin and had my son gently pull from the cabin side while I pushed from the front. Then taped the new cable to my trace cable and pulled it back through. It slid right through!

The new cable did not come with a sleeve for the section along the front of the engine compartment so I reused the old one. It's in decent shape. fortunately the little catch balls attached to the cable came off easily as well, of course I sprayed them with lubricant before I got started.

I decided to leave my "temporary pull" attached. I figured there's no harm with that little cable hanging behind the light and it's piece of mind in case the new cable stretches or one of those little balls slips.

I guess the moral of the story is to inspect your hood release cable. If it starts to feel sticky or not smooth, replace it. It's only $20 plus shipping and an easy job...so long as you can still get the hood open to get at it!

I also ordered a replacement boost control valve and got that swapped out. I've been struggling with a P1110 code and check engine light on for over a year. Popped that in and CEL went off! Yay!
 

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well, I got it open....

It was a struggle to say the least.

For starters going up from underneath is a non starter, there is only one path of access it is in front of the battery. There is room for one skinny arm and when I got up inside I could feel the cable and pull on it to no avail and when I got to the cable end at the latch there is no way to get enough of a purchase to pull the cable because at that point you are trying to release both latches simultaneously with bare fingers on the steel cable and there's no room for pliers.

I moved over the the right front, I peeked inside the area through a small opening just behind the side marker light and I could clearly see the latch and cable end. I figured if I could get something long, narrow and stiff enough I could push the latch.

Searching through my collection of stuff I found a piece of steel four feet long one inch wide and an eighth inch thick, perfect!

I pulled up the hood to increase the opening size, jammed in a piece of rubber and masked the opening to protect from scratching. I stuck the steel in and voila! the familiar 'pong!' rang out as the latch released, yay I thought.... half way there.

I moved over to the driver's side and no sooner did I pry up the hood to see what kind of access I had to work with (you called it Milt) the far side latched with authority. Fark!

At this point it didn't really matter because there was no way to get into the latch area on the driver's side. I could see from looking through the hole that there was structure in the way plus I have my 99 parked right beside and I could see there was no way through. It was a god send to have the second car right there for comparison, it was a huge time saver.

While pondering my next move it dawned on me that the driver's side corner light had a suspect tab on it where it bolts onto the headlight assembly. It was at this point I was prepared to sacrifice some body work or the light, I grabbed the light and pulled. The light popped out and right away I could see the cable hanging down right next to the neck of the washer fluid reservoir.

I pulled the cable and got nothing, pondered for another few seconds and then I attached the cable tightly to the washer fluid reservoir, went to the release handle, pulled and 'PONG!' up pops the hood.

Had the wire tie not worked the next option was going to be to practice some "coat hanger technology" and reach in and pull the cable with a hooked end.

So there's the long sordid tale and there's the way in for future reference.

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That totally reminded me of the Lord of the rings trilogy, not the movies the books of course!
 
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