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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, not just a *nervous* breakdown at the moment. Thought I'd start this thread to keep all my sob stories and requests for assistance in one place.

I was so impressed by my 1984 90 that i thought i'd go crazy and upgrade to a (2dr) 99t - full year's ticket on it, so what could *possibly* go wrong....? Best of all, it has a sticker on the rear windscreen saying 'licensed to rave' - clearly this car has seen some good times in the late 80s.

So far I've had the well-documented electrical problems with relay contacts, and a whole runaround with the exhaust gaskets near the turbo (have just had to pay to have the joints heated and/or restudded...) apparently someone has put the wrong downpipe on it, so without a replacement one of those i'll always have a small blow on the join which will probably wreck the fuel economy...

So far so good. But then there's the day where I get gatso'd on the A46 near Warwick for doing 80 on a dual carriageway (3 points and 60 quid, yer honour) and HALF AN HOUR later she brews up in stationary traffic on the same road... the cooling fan having given up for good. And there's suddenly quite a lot of oil dripping out of the nearside engine bay.

So at the moment I need three things:
i) people to tell me that yes, the 99t *is* the coolest thing on four wheels and worth the effort
ii) any suggestions on where to get a new fan without having to give Saab £200 (yes, £200)
iii) any idea who can make/source a replacement oil cooling hose - apparently the rubber is letting the oil through under pressure.

After all that's sorted I can start on the really important stuff, like the replacing the headlining currently held off my head by 6 million panel pins. (though getting the 'fasten seatbelts' light to work may count as my finest hour yet).

there should be some photos attached, but i might have messed that bit up.

anyway, i wait on your comments!
h.x
 

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Doesn't sound like anything too major there :)

1) Oh yes :D When you get to a thread as long as mine or Tomarse's then we'll let you complain about the car :lol:

2) You got a price for one? I thought they were NLA? Anyway, are you sure your existing one is defintiely shot and it's not some other part of the chain (relay, thermal switch, wiring etc.?). Otherwise, I bought a pacet fan from Rally Design for about £60 which fits reasonably well. I've used mine as a second fan but being that the original one now rarely comes on it would do just fine as a single unit.

Also, rumour has it some saab 9000's have the same motor/fan with aircon so you would just need to change the frame. And also another rumour has it some calibras have a very similar fan.

3) I've never tried to get one, but I'm sure any hydraulic hose manufactuer would be able to duplicate a pipe.

Oh andf the pics show up fine. Nice and shiny car there :)
 

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I remember seeing that car on ebay! have you fixed the wonky headlight now? :)

It doesnt sound like you have any serious problems! ;)
 

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Despite having thoughts of going for a newer model at least once a month, I can assure you that the 99t IS INDEED the funkiest thing on 4 wheels and well and truly worth the effort. You're a preserver of turbo history - a laborious task sometimes, but worthwhile. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
well, i just ordered a 12" pacet profan off the rally design website. shame i'm going to have to take the rad off to fit it - although the car *is* due for new coolant (since what it has now has been stood for ten years, and has been vigorously topped up with neat water after previous 'brewing up' incidents).

keep the encouragement coming - my friend's girlfriend has a nissan micra for sale.. :confused:
 

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From experience - if you cant get the lower mountings on the radiator to undo, then; before you go snapping stuff; remove the whole front panel +rad as one instead as it is easier and cheaper than getting the radiator fixed..

There are brackets with captive nuts in brazed onto the side of the rad and bolts go into these through the front panel. Most of mine either snapped or broke the captive nuts. :evil:
If you take the rad and front panel off as one then you can see what you are doing and undo them carefully.

You will also have to remove the grille, headlights and bonnet release cable too (but they are not hard!),and possibly the bonnet (or work round it)
 

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It is definitely easier to remove the bonnet (2 screws and the washer pipe - don't forget that!) and then remove the front panel with the rad attached.

You do need to remove the grille and headlamp surrounds, but if you leave the bottom headlight screws in you don't have to take those off (although if the outsides are looking rusty I'd say take them off and give them a bit of TLC :D

I hope you measured for clearance for the fan. The fan I bought was a PF0911B (just found teh box :D)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well, from the pacet website it looks like mine sticks out 1cm further at the front than yours does. do you have 1cm spare space behind the grille, or should i panic?
 

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I don't recall it being particularly close - maybe 1.5cm :lol: . I think the main clearance problem I had was fitting it next to the exising fan. I'll have a look later just to make sure.
 

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Oops, later than I meant. Had a quick squizz earlier. Should be fine in the middle, might get a bit close near the base of the rad though. However, if that's the case it shouldn't take much to tilt the rad slightly to gain that little bit more space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
good points:
the fan fits.
it comes on when it should
a combination of 2hrs soldering and a dose of radweld have stopped the leak(s) that the radiator sprang as we took it out

bad points:
discovered after i had parked up for the night that the headlights now only come on full beam (if the dash is anything to go by). had a fiddle around under the fuse box and relays with the engine running (living dangerously, i know). something shorted out and i jumped back, and simultaneously the engine cut out. now i have no power *whatsoever* - no lights, the stereo doesn't work (it normally has power even when the ignition is off) and the engine doesn't turn over when i turn the key.

i suppose the fact that NOTHING works should make the fault easier to find... oh, and it's definitely not the battery, which has a handy green led on top just to tell you it's happy and charged.

taxi out tonight then.
h.
 

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Whoops!

I take it you've checked the various fuses etc.?

Have a look under the fusebox area (with the battery disconnected!) and see if you can see where it shorted, and to what. Then we might be able to figure out what you've toasted!

A total failiure as you say should hopefully be more diagnosable than a partial - although they can sometimes be quite easy when looking at the diagrams.

p.s. you know when the battery is shorted as it pumps out lots of white gas. Ask me how I know ;oops:

Have a play and see if you can find anything that works at all, such as any lights, heater blower, interior light etc.
 

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A couple of suggestions.

Fuses 7,8,9,10,11 and 12 are all fed from the battery, via the alternator (although there is a direct connection). However, the only supply from the battery to the car is via the alternator, so if you have a multimeter, check to see, with the battery disconnected, if there is a good connection between the +ve battery cable, and the B+ connector on the alternator. That's the stud that comes out the back with 3 (I think) fairly thick grey wires attached.

If not, you've melted the main feed :lol:

If there is, then see if there's a good connection between the B+ terminal of the altnerator, and the fuses 7-12. The ONLY items that don't go through those fuses are the headlights, and the ignition system - but the feed wires for both of those still go to the fusebox where they connect to the feed from the alternator and battery...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
hmmm... a late night perusal of the haynes wiring diagrams makes it look like an earth wire from fuse no. 5 might have its finger in a lot more pies than it says on the tin (i love a mixed mataphor). from the diagram, it just *could* be possible that one loose connector could knock out the whole car...

plus, i didn't get much of a spark with whatever shorted - it was more like 'zzt' then i pulled back. couldn't have knocked out any high ampage cable.... could it?

i live in hope.
h.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
lunchtime, and we're looking good. cleaned most of the contacts under thefuse box with file, steel wool and loads of contact cleaner, and the car is starting and running fine. i chased the 'full beam all the time' problem to a spade connector that had come off the switch on the steering column.

*even though* my fan cuts in when it should, i'm running an override directly through the 'extra' switch. hmmm... now just got to decide where to earth it.
 

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E: Overheating

Just a thought, but if you are still concerned with the heating, remove the thermostat completely and see if the problem goes away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i think the electrical gremlins will follow me around for a bit longer. today's top questions:
i) why is there a light poking out from under my centre console that is on *permanently* (even with the keys out and lights off)?
ii) how does getting the rhs tail light fuse to make contact stop my cabin fan from working?
iii) interior lights...? what interior lights?

no need to worry about running temperature though - with the new fan enabled, the needle doesn't rise above 'n' (admittedly it was a rainy day)

gotta love that car...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
bargains, triumphs and paranoia

triumphs:
got fan override switch to work, found and fitted missing interior light switch (not that it makes the lights work, but at least it's there)

bargain:
£14.99 for a hand-held steam cleaner in Halford's sale. soon the inside of my engine bay will look like, well, maybe there'll be some silver mixed in with the black..

paranoia:
noticed that the bolt holding the alternator belt tensioner on the engine block had come out about 3"! pushed it back in as far as it would go (about 1" still visible), and then tried to screw it in, but it turns freely and doesn't go in any further. i haven't dared take it out, as it might be some work to get it back in, but i suspect that someone has used an unthreaded bolt where a threaded one is required - what i can see of the shaft is smooth. is my car *normal*? will any old bolt that fits do the business as a replacement, or do i need something specially strong?

my pre-journey routine is getting worse - it now goes:
check coolant and top up (usually)
check oil (more paranoia - my pet oil leak doesn't seem to be costing me much)
check lights and mess with fusebox spade connectors if necessary
and now: push bolt back into engine block?!?!?

surely not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
paranoia redux

update: my obsessive/compulsive disorder got the better of me, and i have now managed to get that bolt screwed back in (just needed a leeetle tap with the monkey wrench to get it to catch its thread). i wonder what else has come loose without me noticing?
 
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