[MI-Roger]

I gave up on this tens of thousands of miles ago and had a Dealer change the fluid for me. I need to change the fluid again and am still stymied by the stupid T55 plug which replaced the dip stick tube.

Is there a fool-proof method to remove this?

Thanks,

 

[helmetvonthrob]

Get a long (v.long) extension (actually I used several) and a hammer. Hit the fill plug from above (front of the engine bay) to shock it.

Attach the T55 to the end of the assembly and make sure you lean on the T55, crack the plug and remove it.. simples!

I made up a 'dipstick' using one of my partner's old hair dye brushes, turned the metal end through 90 degrees and scribed 2 lines into the plastic handle (someone please remind me what correct distance is - 63 +/- 5mm??)

I used a piece of garden hose and a funnel to refill the 'box and it took ages as I kept having to 'burp' it in order to let the air out as the tubing was a tight fit to the hole.

I dropped out 2.9l and replaced 3litres 1st. time round, my 2nd and 3rd refills are now overdue.

 

[MI-Roger]

Do you remove any thing under the hood for better access? Inlet Pipe, Battery?

 

[helmetvonthrob]

Nope, but I used a wobble extension on the last piece before the T55 bit.

The whole length appears in front of the slam panel.

 

[shaggy]

Nope, but I used a wobble extension on the last piece before the T55 bit.

this is what i did as well but wrapped some masking tape around the universal joint to stiffen it up so it was not quite so flaccid.

also, when i finished the last fill i put a tiny amount of anti-seize on the threads. i should have put it on the first time as it seemed that it did not matter how long the plug was in, it was always difficult to remove (heat/cold cycles or galvanic corrosion?)

s

 

[MI-Roger]

this is what i did as well but wrapped some masking tape around the universal joint to stiffen it up so it was not quite so flaccid.

also, when i finished the last fill i put a tiny amount of anti-seize on the threads. i should have put it on the first time as it seemed that it did not matter how long the plug was in, it was always difficult to remove (heat/cold cycles or galvanic corrosion?)

s

I already owned a short wobble adapter so I bought a 2-foot long 3/8 socket extension yesterday at Harbor Freight. Probably won't have time to do this until Sunday but everyone who has reported success (I posted on three Saab forums) uses the same set-up.

Thanks,

Chelsea huh? I have probably seen you on the local roads at some point.

 

[shaggy]

Maybe
I saw an Edna edition in Dexter 2 weekends ago. Light grey or tan (?) in colour. I wasn't in my car though.
Was that you?

 

[MI-Roger]

No, not me. Although my sister lives in Dexter so you could see us in the Dexter area from time to time driving either my Titan Grey 9-5, or my wife's Parchment Silver 9-3SC.

 

[shaggy]

Nice!
Will keep an eye out for you
S

 

[MI-Roger]

Success with the ATF change

Found a lot of old damage done to the teeth of the T55 recess in the plug. I had a Dealer do the ATF change for me last time. The Service Writer was telling the truth when he said the Tech had a heck of a time removing the plug.

Will definitely need to order a new plug for the next ATF change

I used a T55 bit, stubby wobble extension, 24-inch long 3/8 socket extension, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, and a 15-inch long 1/2 inch ratchet. Leaned on it hard to keep the bit in the recess and the plug finally turned. Leaning hard into the bit reduces the turning force your arm can develop, which is why I went to an extra long ratchet.

 

[05Aero21]

I gave up on this tens of thousands of miles ago and had a Dealer change the fluid for me. I need to change the fluid again and am still stymied by the stupid T55 plug which replaced the dip stick tube.

Is there a fool-proof method to remove this?

Thanks,

This is reason enough for me to stay away from the post 05 years. The loss of a true dipstick, the changing of the headlamp bulbs, and other.

Just my .02, not bashing. I know the exterior design is a little fresher, but I like the black door handles and moulding. That was the Swede thing.

I never thought the dash look dated on 05 down. I think it looks more substantial over the GM style parts. Plus the loss of true amber rear turn signals.... I think these are better just for safety reasons alone.

Just an opinion.... Again not bashing. But the dipstick should have been a carry over.

 

[MI-Roger]

I never thought the dash look dated on 05 down. I think it looks more substantial over the GM style parts. Plus the loss of true amber rear turn signals.... I think these are better just for safety reasons alone.

Just an opinion.... Again not bashing. But the dipstick should have been a carry over.

I agree but low mileage early cars are non-existant. My 'new' 9-5 is already eight years old. I moved the trunk net and highway warning triangle (with case and trunk lid mounting) from my 2000 over to my 2008 when I bought it as used almost 4 years ago

 

[Hawkline]

I'm a relative rookie in doing car stuff, and I managed to get to that T55 plug (bought T55 at Home Depot for ~$3 iirc), with the extensions and wobble bolt. I didn't brace it well enough on my first try so it hopped out and i stripped the threading some, so when helmetvonthrob's says "lean on it", he's serious. Once I realized my mistake I was able to get it out pretty easy even if is stripped some. Got a replacement for it coming from Eeuro soon.

 

[05Aero21]

I never thought the dash look dated on 05 down. I think it looks more substantial over the GM style parts. Plus the loss of true amber rear turn signals.... I think these are better just for safety reasons alone.

Just an opinion.... Again not bashing. But the dipstick should have been a carry over.

I agree but low mileage early cars are non-existant. My 'new' 9-5 is already eight years old. I moved the trunk net and highway warning triangle (with case and trunk lid mounting) from my 2000 over to my 2008 when I bought it as used almost 4 years ago

Your right there.... It's inevitable the things that are easy DIY are going to be harder to do as the early cars fade away. I'm that stubborn and resistant to have anyone other than me, touch my car. Expense being #1, two, getting it done right.

I'm still wanting a 9000 Aero, no matter the mileage.... As long as it runs good and gets from A-Z, I'll drive it till it's time is up.

I just helped my neighbor replace a headlamp bulb on his Subie Legacy. I was holding the corner of the bumper back so he could access to bolts. This stuff infuriates me. The deliberate intention to make it more difficult for you to DIY, in hopes you will pay for OEM parts through a dealer.