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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, finally Sabas guide is back up, and it’s awesome. However I’m not a fan of running my power off the 30amp supply in the back, it just doesn’t seem right to me. So here’s my how to guide to install a power cable from the battery, to the boot.
1. Get all your wiring and stuff ready.

2. Disconnect your battery.
3. Open your passenger door and pull off the side panel with your fingers.



4. Open your glove box; there will be 5 torx screws. 2 at the top, one in the middle inside the box and 2 at the bottom under the box. Slide the glove box forward and it’ll drop, be careful as you need to disconnect the terminals for your light and the hose for your air conditioner pipe.
5. You should now be left with a gaping hole. Peel back the bit of insulation circled red in the photo.


6. Now look closely and you will see a bunch of wires going through, this is how you access the engine bay. Get a small screwdriver/sharp pointed thing and pierce a hole in the thin rubber surrounding the wires.

7. Now look in your engine bay, underneath a bunch of stuff you will now see your screwdriver poking through.

8. Go get your cable, and gaffer tape some wire to it, coat hanger does the job fine.

9. Poke the wire through the hole you made with the screwdriver, depending on the size of your wire, you may need to use a bigger screwdriver to make the hole bigger, try not to make it too big, we want to keep a good seal around the cable!

10. Now look through your engine bay and find the wire, pull it through gently.

11. WOOP, we now have the cable in the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
12.Now assemble your fuse holder onto your wiring, have about 1 foot of wire off the battery, then the fuse, then the rest of the wire.



13.Add the wire to your positive battery clamp. Tuck the amp wire in, use zip ties or whatever to keep it safe from hitting anything it shouldn’t.

14.Now you are done in the engine bay for a bit. Go get the rest of the wire and get installing!

15.The plastic strips on the floor literally just pull off, I used my fingers cos I’m hard, but some ladies like to use trim removal tools…it’s not really necessary but whatever. Start with the middle piece shown as that covers over the pieces that to either side of it. Now pull off the one that sits in the foot well.

16.Feed the wire through and underneath the carpet in the corner.

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
17.Move to the back and do the same, remove the trim and tuck the wire in.
18.Now the last trim is slightly under the rear bench. Pull up the rear bench from the back; don’t remove it completely as you don’t need to. Now feed the wire under it and into the boot



19.Refit all the trims; they should click back in places perfectly. Push the rear seat back down.

20.Now you have a cable in the boot! WOOP!

21.Now follow SABAS guide and get fitting your rca cables, earth and remote.


22.Reconnect the battery.


23.Enjoy
 

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Nice write up.

You need to clean that car up:eek:

And was that nice JL Audio sub dragged thru the street or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cars filthy, it got hoovered and washed straight after the install! i only got the car a few weeks back and so thats exactly how i got it :p i do take care of my cars, but i only have so much free time, so i figured id get the diy jobs over and done with before i tended to cleaning the car nicely.

The sub is about 6 years old, and had an awful life...yet remains fantastic sounding. I really couldnt care a less about its looks :) its got character! Its had numerous bike pedals and beer bottles hit it. Doesnt matter anyway, they are cheap and so who cares :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Fancy elaborating?
 

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well going off what the other guy said theres a few things that need to be elaborated on first you should use a ring terminal at the battery not a spade, as for the one foot its only about 6 inches for the fuse to battery and never never poke through an occupied grommet with a sharp object ever there is always a spot to drill your own hole and place your own grommet, then you have to loom your wires to protect from heat and moisture, i am a certified car electrical tech so you can trust me here i am only saying something to benefit everybody

now for the tips and tricks if your car is auto go on the driver side underdash go to where the clutch pedal would go and dril your hole you have about 3 inches all the way around from the center of the mouting position
if you car is manual move slightly left of the clutch pedal and down diagnally about 2 inches or so
pull the center console and and drill to the right of the gas pedal but left of the main grommet is another option
for remote turn on you can use ignition which is blue in the center console for saabs up to 03 06 or the cig socket always fuse this wire since our saabs have no designated amp turn on wire its all through fiberoptics
left and right audio is under the driver seat if you have a seven speaker system at the amp or at the 6x9's in the rear if equipped
as for ground scratch a little paint away and make your own ground just be clear of the gas tank
run your power wires on one side of the car and your signal rcas down the other side of the car

and the original poster i apologize if i offended you with this post im just elaborating as to why someone would say that you didnt do it the proper way just trying to help you out thats what this forums all about
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
05saab93, no that’s fine, i don’t wish to distribute incorrect information and you have explained what is wrong in your opinion, which is perfectly acceptable. It’s just a bit retarded of sulloj to come here, say it’s wrong and not back up why, typical forum behaviour unfortunately.
Ring terminal over spade, that’s easily changed, although i was just using what came with the kit, what difference does it make?
The grommet, i had obviously checked the other side before ramming a screwdriver through, I’m very surprised to hear you drill a new hole. The installers i have spoken to would have taken the same route as myself, and that’s also the same way i have done it to 8 cars now with no known problems. I shall of course take note of that next time i install.

Remote from cigarette lighter...i was told specifically buy a few people on here NOT to do it that way, but i am unsure as to why not as it seemed totally fine by me.
What loom wrap do you recommend? I have never heard of anybody using it for amp wiring, and i have never seen them on 'pro' installations either on cars I’ve seen! So that’s why i didn’t use it, seems Saab also hadn’t bothered with half my car too.
Anyway, if needs be i shall edit the topic with your points, then at least everybody can decide as to what route they take.
 

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every one a critic hay Paul :roll:

you might think about one of these now

its taken me 18 months to find a remote turn on for the amp in the UK, can get them in the US but this is the first I have seen here, I have ordered on so I will let you know if its any good
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cheers for the link, thats interesting and new to me :) although i have no issues running my remote off fuse 17, it works fine!
 

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Nice write up - a question and a comment.

First, I think it's great that you located that big pass through in the firewall. Does anyone know where it might be on LHD cars? I don't think I'll put in an amp, but I could see using this pass-through.

Second, I disagree with the idea of drilling a new hole. Our cars are galvanized. That means there is a thin coating of zink on the outside of the sheet metal. Drilling a hole exposes untreated metal to the air and will destroy this protection. It's an open question whether this would be a problem over the service life of the car, but I wouldn't risk it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
jmarkert, i'd imagine yours to be on the opposite side? just take a look :) glove box takes a minute to pull off so take a peek :)

As for rusting issues, surely a bit of metal treatment paint would suffice? Remember with a rubber grommit it should be sealed from the weather anyway and also a little silicone selant could help guarantee an air tight seal.
 

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Well i went through the existing grommet same as PO. Figure seeing as Saab had already done the drilling for me and put a nice factory fit tight grommet there - might as well use it (with rubber sealant used afterwards once cable run through). For sure one needs to take great care to avoid the factory loom but it would be real cack handed to damage it. Not sure of the purpose of looming a power cable, I just used insulation tape to bind it to the plastic cable run under the carpet to make sure it would never be a possible metal contact anywhere.

Guess I did it a little easier in that i pushed the cable through from the engine side and was able to just pull it down with my fingers from just under the glovebox, meant avoiding removing the glovebox.
 

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i guess i was being misunderstood in what i said i am not saying that what he did was wrong in anyway someone else made a comment and the original poster wondered why a comment was made i stated the possible reasons i never said what he did was wrong if it works it works i was just giving possible solutions for a more professional install i really mean no harm by what i said and im sorry if it was taken in an offensive way,
as for looming the power wire its to protect the wire from heat and moving parts that can damage insulation, and as for the fuse tappers i have seen very very bad things come from that ive seen remote wires burn up and blow entire circuits its not a wrong way its just not professional and not the best method but again if it works it works i was really just providing alternatives and as for the drilling your own hole causing erosion haha seriously ive never seen it happen,and ive been doing this for long enough and ive worked on enough cars to go ahead and say thats kind of an odd thing to worry about man think of it this way take the chance of having that wire go bad and heat up enough to cause damage to other wires in the grommet or drill my own hole and still have a usuable car, and yes its extreme but its happened before just my two cents if you agree cool if not also cool it doesnt phase me as i have said i am just trying to offer an alternative method and help out i never pointed a finger and said anyone was wrong
 

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I agree with JMarket. Drilling a new hole is not needed. Alot of the time drilling a new hole is just laziness to finding an existing hole and grommet in the car since people dont usaully add another grommet around the power wire to seal it up. If you were to drill a new hole and use a grommet or silicone it would be fine. As for looming the wire, it is really just extra protection. There is no problem not putting any loom. Power wires come with the thick protective coating exactly so its protected. Loom is just extra cost and some extra security. I've never seen a power heat up enough to effect other wires next to it.... Paul, job was done fine in my eyes. I'm sure there could be a lot more disagreeing on the way but I see no problems with your install.
 

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I agree with JMarket. Drilling a new hole is not needed. Alot of the time drilling a new hole is just laziness to finding an existing hole and grommet in the car since people dont usaully add another grommet around the power wire to seal it up. If you were to drill a new hole and use a grommet or silicone it would be fine. As for looming the wire, it is really just extra protection. There is no problem not putting any loom. Power wires come with the thick protective coating exactly so its protected. Loom is just extra cost and some extra security. I've never seen a power heat up enough to effect other wires next to it.... Paul, job was done fine in my eyes. I'm sure there could be a lot more disagreeing on the way but I see no problems with your install.
Agreed. No need to drill another hole, use the existing hole and grommet that is there. Ring terminal is ideal, but spade is fine.

I think its an excellent write up. This is almost exaclty how I have done my cars over the past 13 years and never had an issue.
 

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Nice writeup, and good timing as I bought 2 amps this weekend that I'm getting ready to install. And yea, the stock amp2 wiring is pretty lightweight -- I'm hesitant to run even one amp (for the 6x9's or re-amped 6.5's) from that. (I think my speaker wire is comparable to the gauge of the amp2 power wire...)

I wondered though if the new power cable you pulled has adequate clearance when run into the trunk/boot behind the seat? It'd be awful if the seat were to pinch it enough to pierce the cable jacket when lowering/raising the seat back.

Did you try to run it behind the interior panel alongside the seat and through the parcel shelf where the existing wire loom runs? Does anyone know if there is enough room to do this?
 
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