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Discussion Starter #21
Yeah, I think that was about a sheet and a half? I had two and a half sheets left and I used a full sheet to do the trunk floor, so it would be about a sheet and a half on the wall.

I don't remember how much it was for the sheets, but I know a lot of people say they don't have the money for the Dynamat. However, I think it's MORE important than other components of the system.

For example, I have two 12" subs in the trunk. If I had to cut costs, I would rather go with 1 sub and Dynamat than go with 2 subs and no dynamat. The sound difference is really that much.

The biggest problem is that people think system and say "front speakers, head unit, subs and amps." They always forget about the dynamat. And usually the wiring as well, which means they then have to pay more than they thought.

I would suggest that you think about the priority of the purchase the same way you would install it - Wiring, Sound Deadener, Speakers, Head Unit, Amps. You can always easily upgrade your amps in future, but it's a ***** to change the wiring and Dynamat. If the set up is good from an infrastructure point of view, speakers, head unit and amps can easily be upgraded later and sound better.

Oh and Nilsh I actually bought the first pack from a car audio equipment selling place, but the rest I bought from a car stereo installer. They seem to be a bit more relaxed about selling it to you as they usually have hundreds of sheets lying around.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Quick update.

Unfortunately with things like car stereos, it's always more important to get the damn things in and enjoy them then to make sure it's 100% perfect.

However, that doesn't mean that you can't go back and make sure that everything is done properly.

To this end, I wanted to show you some good tips in making sure that everything is well set up to ensure you get the best sound quality.

Below is a photo of one of the crossovers in the front. The crossover links the door speaker and the tweeter in the dash.

You'll notice a few things that I've done that just make everything better.

Firstly, all wires are labelled. When you have to move wires around, or replace components, it's important to be able to identify which wire is which. Believe me, adding a little bit of electrical tape to a wire could mean saving hours later on.

Secondly, the crossover itself is clearly marked. Not only is this good practice, but it means that if anyone else ever has to work on my stereo they know exactly what everything is and what is does.

Next, you'll see that I've put "spade" connectors on each of the wires. This means that the connection is perfect. The metal connector (shaped like a U) fits in flush with the screw in clamp and makes sure the connection is solid.

To put the spades on, I first made sure the wires were clean and tidy and then pushed them into the spade terminal. I then crimped it to hold the wire in place (I just used a pair of pliers), and then I soldered the top of the wire so that the connection is complete.

To further reduce the chance of the connection coming loose, I have put heat shrink over the top of the spade connector and wire so that it all holds nicely together. You can probably see where I went a little too close with the lighter :)

So, all this may seem like overkill, and it is. However, I know that it's properly set up, I won't have to do it again and I won't have any problems from the connection.

I highly recommend that you do this. Your Saab was made with quality workmanship, so you should do the same with any modifications.

 

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Maybe I missed it but how did you run wire from the front firewall to the trunk ? Did you remove all the carpet ? If yes, how hard and how long would that take ?

Is there any alternative instead of putting your car naked ?

Any shortcuts like under the sideliner or even from outside under the car ?

Thanks for your post!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Maybe I missed it but how did you run wire from the front firewall to the trunk ? Did you remove all the carpet ? If yes, how hard and how long would that take ?

Is there any alternative instead of putting your car naked ?

Any shortcuts like under the sideliner or even from outside under the car ?

Thanks for your post!
Okay, firstly, I think you're in Canada, so sux to be you. On the left hand drive cars it's a little more difficult than on the RHD cars, I believe.

The grommet that I went through is under the fuse box in the engine (there is a picture way back at the beginning of this thread), but I'm not sure where that comes out on a LHD car. All I had to do was remove the glovebox and I could see the cable poking through.

Maybe if you remove the dash trim under the steering wheel, you might be able to see the firewall and that way you get go through there. But, I'm not certain on the LHD....
 

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Since I have LHD, i found the right-side grommet much much easier. The left one is pretty much completely blocked, especially if you have a clutch for a 5spd.
 

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I know about the gommet I was more talking for wiring the car where did you put the wires ? Under the carpet of the car ? We do really have to remove the seats then the carpet ?

Or is there any alternative ? I can't find anything on WIS about removing the carpet of the hole car!

Sorry my English is messed up lol
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Okay, it's been a while since I've updated here. The boot is now sound proofed, but I needed to make sure the doors were done properly, so I've gone back and redone them. I also decided that for a Sleeper style, I really needed to get the speakers behind the stock grills.

So here's the project-

1. Dynamat the outer shell of the door
2. Install spacer and speaker
3. Dynamat the inside of the door
4. Replace door trim with grill

And here's the pictures...

1. Dynamat the outer shell.



Just so that you know, I cut up decent sized strips and fed them in through the services holes to give the outer shell of the door 100% coverage with the Dynamat. Because of the size of the door, we're looking at about 2 and a half sheets... so about $75 worth of Dynamat. Seems a lot, but the soound benefits are amazing.

Also, because I have done so much on the outer skin, I won't need to cover 100% on the inner skin.

Anyway, here's a close up...



And then add a Dynazorb!




So, the Dynazorb at about $40 each is a bit extravagant. However, the sound difference is amazing and it actually makes a difference. This means that all up I've probably spent close to $150 per door just for sound deadening, but it makes my $300 speakers sound like $600 speakers. So, imagine what $1000 speakers will sound like... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
2. Install spacer and speaker.

From previous tuts, I've made the spacers, but to put the behind the trim they need to be a little smaller. So I've cut the spacer in half (thinner) and glued it to the original door spacer...



I had to butcher it a bit to fit it in nicely, but a lick of paint hides everything...



Then, the next step is to cut some closed cell foam to fit between the spacer and the speaker to hide any imperfections. This is the finished product with holes cut for the screws - if you want step by step on this let me know...



Next, make sure your wires are ready to connect and bolt the spacer onto the door.



Next step is to obviously install the speaker - remember to put the foam on first.

 

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Discussion Starter #32
Step 3 - Dynamat the inside of the door...

Next I made sure I’d finished with all the wires and tested that the speaker and spacer fit in with the door trim and all that, then Icovered up the service holes.

Now, if you don’t use Dynamat, but something similiar, beware that you can still remove it if needed. Dynamat is pretty easy to remove even after a long time, so covering the service holes that hardly are needed is not such a bad thing. However, it does wonders as far as creating a kind of enclosure for your speaker. And sounds awesome.


Firstly, take a sharpie (marker) to the door and mark all of the holes that you need to keep open. This included the door handle holes, but mostly where the door trim plugs go in. Anything that screws in need to still be able to, and will be sealed anyway once filled, so you don’t need to cover those.



I’ve marked mine with little x symbols. You won’t see them once the door trim is on, so it’s okay. The next step is pretty easy in that you just go through and cover each of the holes, cutting a larger piece than you need and sticking it over the hole. Then go through and tap on the bare areas and work out which ones are hollow sounding and whack some dynamat on there. Just cutting up small strips seems to do the trick.

The only problem areas is where the door lock rods come through. You DON’T want the Dynamat to stick to these rods and make it impossible to open/close/lock your door. So, this is how I got around it and still had as much sealing as I could.



Above is the hole with the rod sticking out of it. I’m going to make a kind of flap to seal it as much as possible.

Firstly, cut a strip that goes just past where the rod goes into the door.



Next we want to have the rest covered from the outside, but we don’t want the dynamat to stick to the rod. Work out where the rod moves and cut a second piece of Dynamat to be pressed against the back of the first, thereby creating a smooth area for the rod to move along.



Then stick that pad onto the serivce hole and try to close up the sticky ends as much as possible while leaving a free channel for the rod to move along.



Here’s a side shot…



And then here’s the finished product.



And finally, mount the speaker and you’re all done. If you want MORE overkill, you can cover the door 100%, but the key thing is the service holes on this side.

 

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Makes me want an audio upgrade now :eek:

I'm probably gonna look for a pioneer double din to put inplace of the stock one. :eek: how hard is it to get the radio out? also I read I need to either buy an adaptor or splice the wires to get it to work?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
You're right - you need to either get an adaptor or splice the wires.

I just spliced the wires and it works fine. Just try to twist/solder/heatshrink the wires when you do as it will go better, but it's not a difficult job.

To remove the headunit, you need the din removal tool. If you can swing it, go to an auto electrician and ask if you can borrow theirs for 30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I had originally mounted the tweeters in the space from the factory speakers on the dash. I held them in place by bolting foam in the hole and the tweeter sat in the middle. However, due to the harsh Aussie sun, the foam warped a little and the tweeters moved down into the cavity enough to distort the sound.
The solution was to install a mounting plate and put the tweeters on them.
First step was to cut the plate itself. I used about 15mm MDF and traced a line around the original stock speaker. I then cut them out (them = 2, left and right sides) and tested that they fit alright.

You can also see that I've cut the hole for the speaker cable to go through. I used a hole cutting bit so that there was ample room for the cable to go through. The tweeter will sit on the whole so it won't be visible anyway.
Next I jammed that sucker up in the spot where it was to sit to make sure it fit okay and to test how the speakers would sound and where I should position them. The only trick to this was that I had to pull most of the dash apart.
If you care, that meant the glove box removed, 2 air con pipes (on the passenger side), kick panels on both sides of the main console, under the steering wheel panel and fuse cover, and two air con pipes (on the drivers side). The whole back seat was full of bits of my dash!
Anyway, once the mounting plates were in place, I sat the tweeters on them to see how they would sound. I moved them around a bit as I played music and tried to work out the best way to face them.

When I found the perfect spot, I drew around them and then replaced the grill that covers them on the dash to make sure that they fit.... they didn't. It turned out that the plate was too high, so I need to drop it a good inch or so.
After running through several scenarios in my mind, I decided the best thing, all considered, would be to have the plate suspended by long screws as the plate didn't need to support a lot of weight and were pretty snug in there anyway. So the next step was to drill the holes for the screws.

I used the original speaker once again to make sure the holes were in the right place. Then I got the "tweeter keeper" and marked the holes to mount it on top. Then, I drilled.

Once the holes were drilled, the next step was to mount them. I should note that I did the two sides slightly differently. The left hand side (passenger side) I mounted the tweeter case in the middle of the mounting plate and pointed the tweeter at the car driver. The drivers side, I mounted at the rear of the plate and angled it slightly to the left (passenger side) of the driver. This was to try to get a sense of "front sound stage".
I put the mount in once I had put the screws in to a certain depth and then screwed them into the plate. This meant that there was a gap of about an inch between the plate and the dash. It was also slightly at an angle facing forward due to the stuff under the dash, however this worked to my advantage.
Once the plate was in, I attached the case with 1 screw (drivers side) or two screws (passenger side).

Then once I tested that everything was fitting nice and solidly, I thread the wire through the holes and sat the tweeter on top of the case. Then since my tweeter has an adjustable top which swivvels to a degree, I positioned it as I had when I tested them earlier.

I gave them a final test once all hooked up to make sure the positioning was good. Then I adjusted as required and snapped the grill over the top again. This time they fit. :)

The system now sounds better than ever and I have properly positioned tweeters while still retaining the "Sleeper" style that I hold so dear.
 

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I know this is a 9-3 area, but yall seem interesting.

I have a question. I have a 9-5 01 Aero.

I just installed A Kenwood indash receiver . I used the Crutchfield wire harness that came with it. The harness has rca's pre installed ( i guess from Crutchfield) so all i had to do was connect the kenwood wires to the harness and i was set.

Well after the install. i noticed i have a popping sound when ever i played a cd and / or changed tracks.

I took everything apart and re installed.. I have the same thing happening..

All the wires are installed secure. All i installed was the Head unit to Factory system

The factory system has amplifier already from Saab. What can i do to get rid of this sound..
 

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Images?

Looks like all the images that were originally attached to this thread are no longer available. I know this is an old thread, but does anyone know if the pictures can be found elsewhere? I'm getting ready to do an amp install of my own.
 

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Looks like all the images that were originally attached to this thread are no longer available. I know this is an old thread, but does anyone know if the pictures can be found elsewhere? I'm getting ready to do an amp install of my own.
Photophucket screwed us all a week or so ago by breaking all our image links and replacing them with the link to the stock image you see above. In essence, all of us who used Photophucket (in some cases, for 10 or more stinkin' years), must now do one of the following:
Pay Photophucket the ransom it is demanding (nearly $500.00 per year) to "upgrade" our accounts, and in return Photophucket will repair the links;
Download all our Photophucket images that we did not save to some other source (like our hard drives or somewhere in the cloud other than Photophucket) and re-host them to some other image hosting site; or
Do nothing.
 

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OR - Right click on missing image. Wait forever to get to Photobucket where you will be bombarded with pop ups and advertisements. Watch your browser slow to a crawl while the 50 advertising feeds Photobucket has in their page all try to load. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer.

See the user's name near the top of the page when you eventually get to it (in this case, SleeperSaab). Click on the username. Endure more pop ups and on-page advertisements. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer.

Choose the library that looks like the one related to what you want. (Saab Stereo Install) Endure more pop ups and on-page advertisements. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer.

Click on the album in the library that you want (boot, doors, etc). Endure more pop ups and on-page advertisements. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer.

Click on a photo to see it in full size. Endure more pop ups and on-page advertisements. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer. Get more pop-ups. Get some that won't close or get out of the way. Click on a library again to try to see it. Endure more pop ups and on-page advertisements. Try to close advertisements and pop-ups. Wait even longer.

Stop trying; swear you'll never go to Photobucket again.
 
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