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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello everyone, I underwent removing my Ignition Switch Module (ISM) this winter and thought that this might come in handy. Hope that it helps!!

As always, a disclaimer: I take no responsibility with any damage done by following these directions :cool:

First, let me just say that this problem comes in different varieties and sometimes replacing the ISM alone won't fix your entire problem. I would read this: http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193767&referrerid=72235 as well as other write ups and websites regarding ISM issues to narrow down similar situations.

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Some things to consider:

Battery issues (low charge, not holding a charge, etc.) can cause some trouble with the Ignition System on Saabs (and I'm sure other makes). If you have the original "Low Maintenance", you can top off the cells with distilled water and recharge the battery to regain some charge holding capability and circumvent some issues. I would try this first, just to make sure!

Certain components in the ignition system require a Tech II device to work at all, however the ISM does not require programming by Tech II Device.

Even thought it costs money, take it in and get it diagnosed on a Tech II device.
In my situation, after replacing the ISM and not having any luck I took it in and got it diagnosed. I found out then that the SCL was malfunctioning as well. I did save money by doing the ISM replacement myself (cost of part only, no labor), but I still had to pay to get the SCL replaced ~$800 ($100 was for Tech II diagnosis).

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With regard to this write up on ISM removal, I paraphrased my response since it's been a little while from when I actually did it. I may not have all of the steps here, so if you find something not working shoot me a PM and I'll usually be able to respond in a reasonable amount of time. I'll try to edit this document as necessary.

Images reference the approximate position of certain screws and components. Use these images as a guide (images are stock images, not my car). Certain circles show the position of screws underneath other components, so use your brains here. ;)

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I'll format my response as this: what to do and (# in image) - how to do it.



  1. Remove the coin tray rubber mat (1). - use very fine screwdriver or finger nail, peels right up.
  2. Remove two torx screws underneath coin tray mat. (2)
  3. Remove plastic frame (goes around gear shift and ignition switch). (3) - I think that this just pulled up...
  4. Remove torx screw at base of shifter. (4) – Located at the 6 0'clock position from the “Drive” position of the shifter (automatic, obviously...).
  5. Remove the plastic components around the shifter. (5) - There are two pieces held together in a strange way, so make sure to note their configuration before removing them as this will make it easier to put back together!
  6. Remove cover underneath parking brake and “cd holder” cover and remove torx screws. (6 & 7) - Cover underneath parking brake pulls out towards driver seat, “cd holder” cover (opposite side of parking brake) pulls up and off.
  7. Remove rubber mat inside center console and remove two torx screws underneath. (9)
  8. Move seats all the way back and remove two torx screws and remove front side kicker panels (underneath plastic caps). (8a, 8b, 8c) - Squeeze the cap and it's hinge to remove, avoid prying; easily removed if done right. Panels slide backward and down to remove.
  9. Move seats all the way forward and remove plastic component at rear of center console (it holds the ashtray and is underneath rear heater vents). – While in front seat, face backwards and place fingers on both sides of component (in between the seats, and below rear heater vents) and push it backwards; it just snaps out (this is quite difficult to explain without pictures, but it is a quite simple procedure).
  10. Remove rear side kicker panels. (11) – These are literally between the center console and the seats, they simply pull out backwards.
  11. Move seats all the way back and locate two torx screws just below ignition, on both sides of the console. (10) – These are the most difficult torx screws to remove as the seats prohibit tool movement, but they are the last two!!
  12. Remove center console frame, making sure to remove all wires connected to it while doing so. – There is the Parking Brake sensor, the ISM wiring harness, and I believe one other nondescript wire I believe...
  13. Replace ISM
  14. Reverse directions to complete
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I hope that this helps!! Again, please critique my work and let the community know if some steps need revising! :cool:

Alex
 

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Nice write up, did you notice anything underneath or around the shifter that can produce a buzzing/rattling noise? i want to see if that the culprit to my buzzing sound seemingly coming from that area:lol:.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Nocturne. pkny102: I didn't notice anything that would necessarily rattle unless something came undone. Do step 8 and you could have a good amount of access to see what's going on underneath there. Good luck!
 

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Used these instructions today. Got the ignition switch in 2 days after ordering online for 100. I was doing this to eliminate steering lock malfunction message, and so far so good. Instructions were so good, my 8 year old daughter helped me do it. Thank you!
 

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Ive done quite a few of these now and have gotten it down to about 20 minutes. 1) Disconnect - battery cable. 2) Slide L (US driver) seat back all the way. 3) Remove T25 under cap and slide console cover panel out. Release the PurpleU and disconnect harness and move aside. 4) Release (push in) the two left side stainless catches on the ISM and push down. 5) Remove ISM. It will be necessary to push the switch into the plastic air duct slightly, but there is enough "give" in the duct. Disconnect the wiring harness on the ISM. 6) Install is the reverse. Just be careful sliding the new ISM in as the rubbery covering around the fob/keyhole wont endure much force. Cover with a plastic bag if desired.
 

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What's the part number that you ordered online for $100. WD-40 is no longer works on my ignition switch.... SO, I need to replace my really soon...

You can e-mail me directly [email protected]

Thanks,

Jay
 

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i just did this on my '07 Aero manual and noticed a few differences.

Step 2: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 4: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 5: Apparently not relevant to the manual transmission.

Steps 9-12: I didn't perform these as there was enough play in the center console at this point that the ISM could be easily removed. This is a compromise between MyersGraphics instructions on this page, and the abbreviated instructions that dzlsabe and jcliff posted at http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219388&highlight=ignition+switch

I have seen people post that the Steering Lock Malfunction can be fixed with a new battery, or buy cleaning the contacts on the ISM. I charged my battery at the same time I was removing, cleaning and replacing the ISM, so I am not sure which solved the problem, but it appears to have gone away.
 

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This post has been extremely helpful, but can anyone tell me how to remove the electrical harness from the back of the IS!. I have everything else done, but can't get the ism out became I can't figure out how to release the electrical harness from the back.

Thanks!



i just did this on my '07 Aero manual and noticed a few differences.

Step 2: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 4: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 5: Apparently not relevant to the manual transmission.

Steps 9-12: I didn't perform these as there was enough play in the center console at this point that the ISM could be easily removed. This is a compromise between MyersGraphics instructions on this page, and the abbreviated instructions that dzlsabe and jcliff posted at http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219388&highlight=ignition+switch

I have seen people post that the Steering Lock Malfunction can be fixed with a new battery, or buy cleaning the contacts on the ISM. I charged my battery at the same time I was removing, cleaning and replacing the ISM, so I am not sure which solved the problem, but it appears to have gone away.
 

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Thanks aerojon, I used the post you quoted to walk through the ISM removal, but it just says remove the electrical harness and doesn't have a picture of how to do it. I just can't seem to get it off ... It's pretty small and doesn't seem to have an obvious release mechanism. I've spent nearly an hour trying to remove it ... As soon as I can get the harness off, I'm done and an remove the ISM from the car, the rest of the post and photos were so helpful, but there aren't any pics of the back of the ISM.
 

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Does anybody know if the light up ism from a 2003 can be used to replace the ism in a 2004 vert? I love how the 2003 lights up the off on start positions in green like everything else. So if anyone knows I would appreciate it.
Thanx
 

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Do you know if the light up switch from a 2003 9-3 ss 4 door can be used to replace one in a 2004 9-3 ss vert? I love the green backlighting.
Thanx
 

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ISM - part number ?

saab 93 2007 - Ignition Switch (ISM) - Can anyone give me the part number or help me source an ISM for my SAAB?
Im in Australia but can order and have one sent from anywhere,,,
 

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Do you know if the light up switch from a 2003 9-3 ss 4 door can be used to replace one in a 2004 9-3 ss vert? I love the green backlighting.
Thanx
I know you asked this a while ago but just add some LEDs in there, that's what's did
 

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saab 93 2007 - Ignition Switch (ISM) - Can anyone give me the part number or help me source an ISM for my SAAB?
Im in Australia but can order and have one sent from anywhere,,,
Karmen, I just got one on Ebay from "BarnfindBernie". Don't let the name fool you. Good price, OE, shipped the next day and shipped very cheaply, unlike others I checked.


http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campid=5336714586&toolid=10001&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F200724239020%3Fitem%3D200724239020%26viewitem%3D%26sspagename%3DADME%3AL%3AOU%3ACA%3A3160%26vxp%3Dmtr
 

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i just did this on my '07 Aero manual and noticed a few differences.

Step 2: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 4: There were no torx screws here, so I skipped this step.
Step 5: Apparently not relevant to the manual transmission.

Steps 9-12: I didn't perform these as there was enough play in the center console at this point that the ISM could be easily removed. This is a compromise between MyersGraphics instructions on this page, and the abbreviated instructions that dzlsabe and jcliff posted at http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219388&highlight=ignition+switch
For future reference, my manual convertible does have the torx screws in step 2 (labeled 2 in the diagram above), just underneath the area where the coin tray mat and the shift knob meet. FWIW, the extra give they offer is so little I don't think it is worth the time to remove them, unless you have a cabriolet where you need ever millimeter you can get to work in the very confined space.
 

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How do you guys put back the spring/plastic piece back? It seems when I put it back the whole lock gets stuck. Im about to give up and just order one
 
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