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Discussion Starter #1
i'd been running my T16 with the actuator wound all the way up and the swedish dynamics APC put in. i was getting great boost, about 75% into the red with some taper. i've rebuilt the engine recently. put it all back together and now im getting pinking when i enter the red. i changed over the FPR and fuel filter. no differnce.

I took the FPR from a 1991 lucas system, my engine is LH2.2 (1988). are there any differnces in the FPR's?

maybe i got lucky before, but can the stock system take much boost over 1 bar?

to counter this if i have no other problems can i fit an adjustable FPR and wind it up a bit more until i dont get pinking no more? or will this cause rich idle?

cheers!! :D
 

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On a more serious note, have you checked the timing and also that the vac capsul on the dizzy is doing it's thing?
 

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<------ @ my avatar. Stock boost gauge was wound out. My other boost gauge said 26 psi. I have it back down to a more manageable level now...


EDIT: If you look close enough you can see the little bit of black after the red, meaning that I hit the little peg, which is hard to make out. teehehehe :D
 

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the only thing other than the distributor that I can think of as Si said is that when you rebuilt the engine something is "off" or different, possibly the TPS is malaligned and the computer doesn't know you are full throttle and you aren't getting enough fuel, or more likely you planed the head and put new rings in and have new found compression.....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My timing is at 16* BTDC, i'll check the vacuum advance, i take it when i suck on the tube i'll see a plate or point move inside the dizzy?

as for compression, im getting 150PSI on all cylinders. i've a new dizzy cap and leads coming.

it certainly was fast before the rebuild. today i boosted and seemed to get full boost again. i was in 2nd though. yes i know BAD :roll: :p . managed to keep traction too, so i was well and truly pasted to the seat :cheesy: but that was only once, kinda weird!?!!

speaking of the TPS, i had to set it up again after my mechanic had a look:roll: i hear a click on the throttle just opening, but no click on WOT or 75% when ever it says in the book. beggerd?

thanks for the help!
 

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JimmyG said:
it certainly was fast before the rebuild. today i boosted and seemed to get full boost again. i was in 2nd though. yes i know BAD :roll: :p . managed to keep traction too, so i was well and truly pasted to the seat :cheesy: but that was only once, kinda weird!?!!
If you've still got traction in second, then you're not running enough boost ;)
 

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JimmyG said:
My timing is at 16* BTDC, i'll check the vacuum advance, i take it when i suck on the tube i'll see a plate or point move inside the dizzy?
To test the vacuum retard, apply 10 or 12 pounds of pressure (my presta valve bike pump works fine) and make sure the timing retards to about 11 psi.
 

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JimmyG said:
My timing is at 16* BTDC, i'll check the vacuum advance, i take it when i suck on the tube i'll see a plate or point move inside the dizzy?

as for compression, im getting 150PSI on all cylinders. i've a new dizzy cap and leads coming.

it certainly was fast before the rebuild. today i boosted and seemed to get full boost again. i was in 2nd though. yes i know BAD :roll: :p . managed to keep traction too, so i was well and truly pasted to the seat :cheesy: but that was only once, kinda weird!?!!

speaking of the TPS, i had to set it up again after my mechanic had a look:roll: i hear a click on the throttle just opening, but no click on WOT or 75% when ever it says in the book. beggerd?

thanks for the help!
150 psi is ideal, that is what I get with a 2.0 block with a 2.1 head...
On an LH 2.2 system the TPS has three pins, one is common, 1 of them is for closed throttle, and one is for full throttle, with 6 or 7 mm wrench and a test light or multitester, and the car off check for continuity between the center pin on the TPS and the outer ones, a friend to help step on the gas pedal is nice but not needed, first check the closed position with the center pin vs the outer pins, then open the throttle and check the WOT position with the "other pin" and the center pin, if you don't have contact both times, loosen the bolts holding it, then snug them slightly, then readjust and try again, if you can't nail it down, you may have to adjust the throttle stop to get enough degrees of throttle travel....also after you have set the TPS and tightened it back down CHECK IT AGAIN.... 99% of the time The tps seems to move when you tighten it
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Albert Trout said:
If you've still got traction in second, then you're not running enough boost ;)
i very rarely get traction in 2nd and 3rd will spin up in the slightest amount of wet. but the high grip yellow tarmac you get on roundabouts is good stuff :p aswell as easing the boost in, instead of stamping the throttle which gives you that sudden torque

I just changed the leads/cap and rotor and i see im getting an oil leak in the dizzy head itself. i've yet to check the vacuum system on it. simply cant be ar5ed before night shift!! :roll:

Breakin5speeds said:
150 psi is ideal, that is what I get with a 2.0 block with a 2.1 head...
On an LH 2.2 system the TPS has three pins, one is common, 1 of them is for closed throttle, and one is for full throttle, with 6 or 7 mm wrench and a test light or multitester, and the car off check for continuity between the center pin on the TPS and the outer ones, a friend to help step on the gas pedal is nice but not needed, first check the closed position with the center pin vs the outer pins, then open the throttle and check the WOT position with the "other pin" and the center pin, if you don't have contact both times, loosen the bolts holding it, then snug them slightly, then readjust and try again, if you can't nail it down, you may have to adjust the throttle stop to get enough degrees of throttle travel....also after you have set the TPS and tightened it back down CHECK IT AGAIN.... 99% of the time The tps seems to move when you tighten it
I tested this today and it appears to be working fine. thanks for the info! :)

i noticed i've a few leaks from banjo bolts in the engine bay. including a veryyy slight one from the fuel rail (not spraying, just damp at the banjo slightly). i'll need to replace these now. ugh!!

short of testing the vacuum system on the dizzy i cant think of anything else thats wrong. very strange :cry:
 

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Check the dizzy for vacuum advance and boost retard, check your base timing with the vacuum hose to the distributor unplugged....also make sure you're using NGK 7 series plugs, either BCPR7ES, BCPR7EVS, or the ones I prefer are BCPR7EIX, and check their gaps, also I take my plugs and with an ignition/points file, and or some sand paper smooth and round off any burs and sharp edges on the ground electrode, it's a racers' trick, especially important in high compression/forced induction engines, sharp pointy edges concentrate heat energy and can cause pre-ignition, or this could all be due to poor fuel from sitting, or bad batch at your local seller

Also get those fuel leaks fixed, make sure you have good new washer gaskets...

Fuel isn't terribly flammable, BUT FUEL VAPOR SURE AS HELL IS, and a high pressure pin hole spray, atomizes and vaporizes very quickly
 

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Breakin5speeds said:
Check the dizzy for vacuum advance and boost retard
The t16 distributor doesn't and can't advance timing, it only retards it, assuming it's hooked up to the proper fitting on the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
points taken and noted! thank you. if works quiet tonight i might sneak up to the car park and give it a bash;)

cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
TheRedBaron said:
The t16 distributor doesn't and can't advance timing, it only retards it, assuming it's hooked up to the proper fitting on the throttle body.
the vacuum line is attached to a nipple directly ontop of the throttle body.
 
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