[hoppysport]

I know that certain parts on my 2008 9-5 have different time and mileage before they need to be replaced. Some parts are subjective, like the green window rollers. I have yet to need replacements at 98,000 miles. Here are a few that I know:

Timing Chain: 200,000 miles

Mitsubishi TD04 Turbo: 200,000 miles

DIC: 60,000 miles

Throttle Body: 75,000 miles

Would love to hear from the forum and your experiences on the approximate life and mileage of 9-5 parts.

 

[EdT]

I know that certain parts on my 2008 9-5 have different time and mileage before they need to be replaced. Some parts are subjective, like the green window rollers. I have yet to need replacements at 98,000 miles. Here are a few that I know:

Even hard failures can be subjective.

DIC: 60,000 miles.

They can last a lot longer. There's a 2002 9-5 fresh in the junkyard. Its DIC was an 04 date code as I recall, and it was a rev B which is pretty early. I'm pretty sure it had gone way more than 60,000 miles.

 

[Jeremy R.]

You really can't put assign mileages to parts for when they're going to fail. Both of my 9-5s are on their original throttle bodies at 210,000 and 155,000 miles. I've had DICs go longer than 60,000 miles. Some cars will have suspension failures at 100,000 miles, and some will trudge on for 200,000 miles. It depends on so many things. My 175,000 mile 1997 900 and my 155,000 mile 9-5 have never needed the window rollers replaced. The 210,000 mile 9-5 needed them replaced a couple of times. Other than filters and oil changes, I replace parts when they fail.

 

[hoppysport]

I'm sure that environment and road conditions have a lot to do with it. I replaced my front struts and rear shocks at 80,000 miles. Then at 88,000 miles I replaced my subframe bushings.

My front flex pipe needed replacing at 83,000. I'm still on my original catalytic converter at 98,000 miles. Mid and rear exhaust were replaced at 89,000 miles.

Still on my original window rollers. Replaced my jalousie at 93,000 miles. My heater bypass valve replaced at 71,000 miles.

Rear brake pads replaced at 59,000 miles. Rear rotors at 88,000. Front brake pads at 67,000 miles. Front rotors at 87,000 miles.

I replaced all of my hoses at 68,000 miles...and that was strictly preventative.

Still on the original freon and A/C is still ice-cold.

Still on the same fuel pump. Hope that holds.

Transmission fluid is changed every 10,000 miles. 4x Transmission fluid changed every 30,000 miles.

 

[toxicavenger]

My wife's 06 sedan had so much **** changed before 80k I can not name them all. My 06's wagon has had the DIC, throttle body changed around 80k. Sending unit around 130k, DIC again, oil pressure switch. 175k rear seal, 180k alternator (it has been whining for about 90k miles), green roller.

 

[hoppysport]

My wife's 06 sedan had so much **** changed before 80k I can not name them all. My 06's wagon has had the DIC, throttle body changed around 80k. Sending unit around 130k, DIC again, oil pressure switch. 175k rear seal, 180k alternator (it has been whining for about 90k miles), green roller.

Alternators are so subjective, as are starters. As I'm sitting at 98,000+, their life is always on my mind. Still, even with the whining, 180,000 is impressive.

Do you suggest replacing the oil pressure switch as preventative maintenance?

The 235R has never seemed to be the most refined engine, but it's never let me down.

 

[Nocturne]

I don't recall specific mileage but here's my rundown...
I bought the Saabllennium Falcon (2005 9-5 Aero) with 203,000 kms on it.
Right away, the DIC, plugs and Catalytic converter had to be replaced. Dealers Mechanic misdiagnosed the issue and replaced the Boost control valve, turbo, boost solenoid, DIC, plugs and vacuum lines. I brought the car home and diagnosed that it was a blocked Cat. They replaced it and all was good. I also replaced the Thermostat and coolant temp sensor.
6 months or so later, a large section of the rear passenger side coil spring snapped off, Coolant Bypass valve failed and right after that, the DIC failed (Pro Parts Sweden). I cheaped out and got a Chinese aftermarket DIC. Around 3 months into ownership, replaced stabilizer links and ball joints. Around 1 year into ownership, replaced the subframe bushings, Valve cover gasket and new pads and rotors. A few months after that, stabilizer links again. 11 months later (Approx 300,000 kms) that DIC failed and took the Cat out with it. Replaced the DIC with SEM new OEM plugs and installed another Cat.
Just the other day I got the taillight out warning so I replaced those, OH! And somewhere in all that history I had the belt replaced and I've done headlight bulbs a couple of times.

I chalk most of this up to lack of previous owners preventative maintenance.
I drive a large amount of distance every week just to and from work (about 128 kms per day).

 

[hoppysport]

Even though you've put a lot of work and parts in the 9-5, those are pretty much wear parts. There doesn't seem to be an approximate number of miles when the DIC fails. My SAAB-only mechanic told me once that he mostly sees them fail between 60,000-70,000 miles.

My subframe bushings gave up the ghost at 88,000 miles. I believe that's because I drive in NYC, where the roads are awful. Have yet to have the catalytic go. Hope that I can get 150,000 miles out of it. I put on around 8,000 miles a year, so that's about 8 years.

The failure that I worry about are the timing chain tensioners. That appears to be a big job. Why oh why are they made out of plastic?

I'm not a fan of having to drop the bumper to change high-beams. The other day I stopped by my mechanic to change a blown halogen drivers side low beam. He changed it and I still had bulb failure.

He lifted up the engine fuse/relay box, popped out the headlight relay, and brought it into the shop. There he added solder to the ends and put it back in. Wallah, the light worked. He told me that bad street conditions cause the relay to loosen...thus the solder. Nothing like having a SAAB-only specialist. He can even change the cabin filter in 17 minutes...and pro-rates the time. A gift from the heavens!

My thermostat was changed at 68,000 miles as preventative maintenance. I bought the car at 61,450 and did certain work for peace of mind. I changed all of the hoses, clamps, flushed the radiator, and changed the belts.

I haven't experienced any electrical issues, except that every 6 months a rear bulb fails. Very easy to do myself. My friend has a 2010 Volvo S80, and that is an electrical mess...just like Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Audi. Those brands scare the bejesus out of me.

When I was shopping for a 2008-2009 9-5, I really wanted a stick, but I live in Manhattan, where it sometimes takes 3 attempts to get through a single block light. I'd probably be going through a clutch every year.

 

[Nocturne]

Even though you've put a lot of work and parts in the 9-5, those are pretty much wear parts. There doesn't seem to be an approximate number of miles when the DIC fails. My SAAB-only mechanic told me once that he mostly sees them fail between 60,000-70,000 miles.

I was talking Kilometers, so, a DIC according to your mechanic, generally fails at 96,560 Kms (60,000 Miles. Mine lasted maybe 20,000 Kms (12,427 Miles).

I know most of the stuff is wear items, but that's all I've had to deal with. The cars are solid. What else can I say? Lol

 

[hoppysport]

Must be the DIC technology because I've never owned a car that starts at first crank in ultra-cold temperatures.

 

[Nocturne]

Must be the DIC technology because I've never owned a car that starts at first crank in ultra-cold temperatures.

You nailed it. The DIC is way more complicated than it appears regarding manufacturing which is why the cheap ones cause more headache than anything else. Since our cars don't have a camshaft sensor, the DIC fires 40,000 volts A.C across all plugs on startup since the ECU doesn't know the camshaft position. Once fuel is ignited, the DIC sends that signal to the ECU and fires a spark to the next plug in the firing order. So every time you start the car and shut it down, the DIC fires a 40,000 Volt A.C current across the plugs (at shut down, it's to clean the plugs of residual fuel). That's a lot of heat, a lot of current, and a lot of energy, over and over and over again. If it's not built 100% to spec, it just simply self destructs.

 

[estrackel]

2008 9-5.
53XXX miles. Yes, 53 thousand.
I think my parts are rotting from lack of use.
I realize some of this is wear/maintenance stuff, but this is a general idea of what Saab life can be like. I like the car, but you better enjoy tinkering/working on it with some frequency.
I typically buy OEM parts for the most part.


In the last 6 years I've owned her:

-New front brake pads before 30k (an orig. one literally cracked in half).
-2 cabin air filters
-2 engine air filters
-2 sets of wiper blades
-1 set of xenon headlight bulbs (flicker and failure)
-1 set of foglight bulbs (one burned out)
-2 full sets of spark plugs
-AC system recharged/checked for leaks
-new DIC (delayed starting issues, changed as preventative, prob. solved)
-new coolant hoses and vacuum lines (dry rot/ failures/leaks)
-2 heater/coolant bypass valves (both OEM valve failures)
-new BPC valve (cracked)
-new oil trap hoses/PCV setup (old one cracked)
-throttle body failure (CEL's and limp home mode issues)
-new engine serpentine belt & pulleys (due at 60k, but belt showing wear)
-thermostat failure (stuck open)
-coolant temp. sensor failure
-shifter jalousie replaced
-turn signal stalk replaced (plastic mount tabs broken, wobbly/loose)
-front window track rubber insulators fell out of place and had to be fixed/glued in placed to stop windows from rattling when down.
-all front window rollers replaced (2 broken during cold winters)
-1 headlight washer replaced (old one broke and would spray fluid straight up in the air)
-2 door electrical switches (to turn on dome light) replaced (old ones sticking)
-1 new battery
-airbag recall performed (new steering wheel center/airbag unit)
-various interior/exterior plastic trim parts replaced because they used junk plastic on this car and it all breaks if you look at it wrong.
-drivers seatbelt mechanism dismantled and lubricated due to annoying squeak

Unresolved issues:
-intermittent back up sensor failure (mostly in cold weather). I just choose to ignore it and turn around and look when backing up.
-minor headlight flicker in cold weather (ballasts check out fine. new bulbs. Usually stops after warming up a bit).

 

[hoppysport]

Wow estrackel, some pretty premature failures. I too have a 2008 9-5, now with 98,000 miles...bought at 61,450. The original owner took it in for all services. He only changed the rear brake pads in that time, plus transmission fluid every 10,000 miles and oil changes at 3,000 miles.

When I was shopping for my 9-5, I didn't want the Xenon option. Dealt with that hassle and expense on a previous Cadillac DTS. I wanted the bulb and ballast nightmare far in my rearview mirror.

I've been through 2 sets of OEM wiper blades in 37,000 miles

Still on my new DIC and NGK plugs from when I bought the 9-5 37,000 miles ago.

Still going strong on the original foglight bulbs I think. Not sure if the original owner ever changed them.

Have changed my Halogen headlight bulbs twice in 37,000 miles.

Still on the original A/C refrigerant.

Replaced heater bypass valve after I bought the car. Am considering the heater bypass valve delete. So far, so good.

Replaced all hoses and belts when I bought the car...preventative.

Of course the shifter jalousie needed to be replaced at 90,000 miles.

Replaced the coolant sensor and thermostat after I bought the car.

Yep, replaced the throttle body at 82,000 miles or so. Tried cleaning it but that worked for about 3 weeks.

Replaced o2 sensor and PVC valve when purchased. My in-town mileage was bad so replaced them. It's still not good, but better than it was.

Of course my turn signal stalk is loose, like all 9-5's. No failure yet.

After the tree fell in front of my car, I had to replace the headlights, bumper, grilles, hood, passenger front fender, and other parts. Most were purchased in quantity from one excellent salvage yard for $900 total. A few parts bought new. I elected to buy a new bumper from Orio without the headlight washers. Saved me a lot of money on the washers and mechanism. Besides, they were pretty wonky to begin with. Except for mine, I've never seen an 06-09 9-5 without the headlight washers.

Replaced the battery when purchased. It failed at 85,000 miles and Exide replaced it for no charge under warranty.

Have yet to replace the window rollers. No idea why at 98,000 miles. Watch, one will fail tomorrow...hah!

 

[hoppysport]

You nailed it. The DIC is way more complicated than it appears regarding manufacturing which is why the cheap ones cause more headache than anything else. Since our cars don't have a camshaft sensor, the DIC fires 40,000 volts A.C across all plugs on startup since the ECU doesn't know the camshaft position. Once fuel is ignited, the DIC sends that signal to the ECU and fires a spark to the next plug in the firing order. So every time you start the car and shut it down, the DIC fires a 40,000 Volt A.C current across the plugs (at shut down, it's to clean the plugs of residual fuel). That's a lot of heat, a lot of current, and a lot of energy, over and over and over again. If it's not built 100% to spec, it just simply self destructs.

I never realized the DIC was so complicated. Thanks for the technical details on how it works. Do you think that the DIC is beneficial over coil packs and wires? I was always surprised that the battery isn't in the trunk or under the seat.