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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How accessible is it to do an engine flush + oil + filter change at home instead of taking it to a garage? I don't trust local garage to get my requested oil (Mobile) and filters, nor would they bother doing a 15 min engine idle before oil change...

Any special tool required? Cheers :)

P.S. I've changed the PCV tube the other week, it was fun doing car DIY :D. Altho I end up with lots stractches. Does the PCV tubes fit really seamlessly from the connectors? i pushed them in as far as I can and they feel firm but there is a gap between end of tube and the fat part of the connectors.
 

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Easy peasy!
Hints,
1. Always change the sump plug copper washer on each oil change, (they compress)
2. Change the sump plug if its at all rounded off (13mm)
3. I'd recommend using a good quality engine flush
4. Use a top quality oil like Mobil 1
5. Use the genuine Saab oil filter, (too cheap not to really) do up nice and tight by hand and smear the seal with some oil to make a good seal.
6. Sump plugs can be a pain to undo, raise the car securely so your ratchet fits square on the plug and a tap or jolt might be required to loosen it.
7. Oil should be nice and hot to drain properly (be careful)
8. The undertray tends to get oily but its easily cleaned up with a rag.
9. Dispose of old oil properly.
10. If you buy filters and washers mail order, get a few and save on postage!
11. The differnece between the top and bottom of the dipstick marks is 1 litre
12. After re filling recheck the level after a short idle as the filter will take up some of your oil, also check for any leaks around the filter and sump plug.
13. Gloves for your hands would be a good idea and some absorbent material under your oil drain can.
14. If the old filter is tough to remove various cheap tools are available or you can scewer the old filter with a screw driver (carefully) to get some leverage.
 

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It's very to do it yourself. I like to prop the car up an inch or two when I'm loosening the drain plug, but I have a low riding aero. :p
 

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12. After re filling recheck the level after a short idle as the filter will take up some of your oil, also check for any leaks around the filter and sump plug.
Another good tip is to fill the filter with oil prior to fitting. :cheesy:
 

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I was always ready to create a new thread for the following question when found this one.

Chris 9-5 said:
1. Always change the sump plug copper washer on each oil change, (they compress)
2. Change the sump plug if its at all rounded off (13mm)
Are these washer and plug something I can get from a generic auto parts store (like AutoZone, PepBoys etc.)? Or I need to buy them from dealer or order from SAAB parts store?
 

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There's nothing technically difficult, but i find it a complete pain having to jack the front of the car right up just to undo a sump plug! In addition dealers exceed the torque setting on sump plugs which makes rounding them a real possibility (as I did Saturday). Filter easy to get to though;oops:
 

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I figured out how not to change the oil in my car. ;oops: Make sure you don't tighten the new filter enough, then when you start the car, my fresh mobil 1 goes all over the place, about two quarts, that was a $12 mistake. On the bright side, my drive looks like it has just been freshly sealed.:p
 

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nphobb01 said:
Make sure you don't tighten the new filter enough,
Erm, do you mean "make sure that you DO tighten the filter enough" :eek:
 

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nphobb01 said:
Actually, I meant don't tighten it enough, I was explaining how to NOT change your oil;)
Ok I see, in that case dont put the sump plug back in either :cheesy:
 
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