SaabCentral Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am trying to replace the heater valve and remove the heater core. I have removed the center console and the facia. I cant find where to remove the lower panel by your knees. I looked under the panel, I have lifted the dash up a little to check under that, and nothing. It seems to be held in by magic or something. Please help :confused:

david
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
888 Posts
David. in the center is a 13mm bolt (it's the same one that the 10mm bolt for the center consol screws into). Also there is a 10mm bolt at each end, accessed from under the bonnet. You will need a very long extension bar on your socket set to reach them. they are usually hidden from sight by the door electrical connectors. The one behind the fuse box can be fiddly to locate, and the one on the other side is often hidden behind some putty.



Dan/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
230 Posts
Question - what is that sealer stuff over the bolt

I had my bolster out and you were right, the side opposite the fuse box had black putty over the bolt. I need to put it back since I suspect a leak from this location... but what is this stuff? Anyone know what to use/ what the oem stuff might be called

Guess I could just use RTV silicone or whatever but want to keep it neat and removable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,986 Posts
Clean the area well and stick a piece of (quality) duct tape over the opening and bolt head. Easy and removable--unsightly? No ones looking but you;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Could someone please take a photo of where they are located, or be a little more specific. I still cant seem to find them. how far down are they? are they bolted through the firewall? or the side near the corner lights? do I need to remove anything to find them? I would appreciate any help. And thanks for the help so far!!!!

david
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
So I think I found the 10mm nuts removed them. Now what I tried pulling on it and it isnt budging I pulled pretty hard and then heard a pop.lol not sure what happened. Are there more to remove then just the 2? and after I removed the ashtray 10mm bolt not sure what you mean by there being another one there? is it the thing that the 10mm ash tray bolt goes into? and once I do pull this thing off will it ever go back on? lol
thanks in advance.

david
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,779 Posts
yeah that's the one, the wierd hexagonal thing with the hole tapped in it. It can be a pain to get back on, last time I said eff it and just put the side bolts on, figured I'd do it right next time :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Well I got the heater core and valve out. Wow that was interesting, I think I might have messed something up in the interum. My central locking does not work now. Any suggestions? and is there way to test if the heater core needs replacing as well or should I just replace both core and valve to be on the safe side? Dont think I ever want to do that again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,309 Posts
nashvegas said:
I had my bolster out and you were right, the side opposite the fuse box had black putty over the bolt. I need to put it back since I suspect a leak from this location... but what is this stuff? Anyone know what to use/ what the oem stuff might be called

That black stuff is commonly called "dum-dum" believe it or not. Proform makes it (among others I'm sure), it's a sort of body-man's sealing aid. It can be found quite commonly in the body repair section of a good auto parts store.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Ok so I think I found out why the central locks dont work here http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112893&highlight=central+locking
Because I unplugged the relay!!!:cheesy: So I guess I didnt screw it up that bad, just striped a torx screw on the lower vent and bad to break it off in the middle...ouch it took a piece of the heatercore housing with it. guess it will be one screw lite. now to order the valve. still though should I order the core too just to be safe?

thanks
david
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,156 Posts
I have just done the same as you, it is an awkward job.

I don't think there is a way of checking the sevicability of the core yourself. I changed mine because the heater performance was poor and the valve was leaking slightly. With the replacement core in place the heater is working the way you'd expect of a Swedish car - STEAMING HOT.

I wouldn't want to do the job again so I would suggest you change to core too. Also is is worth replacing as much of the foam padding/seals as you can and it's also worth checking the operation and seal of the 'doors' on the air distribution box.

Finally, I blocked up the holes that fed air to the rear of the centre console. My console is full of electrical stuff and it didn't need the extra heat.

When you replace the knee bolster make sure you locate it properly on the metal clips on the bulkhead otherwise the thing will squeak and drive you nuts!
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
I suppose they can but they get much less flow, through a very small opening in the heater valve so there's not that much opportunity for enough sludge to get into them. I was thinking more in terms of leak rather than clog though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I tested the heater core by putting a hose to one hole and WOW!! water was shooting out of that thing 10 ft!! and I didnt see any leaks so I am going to replace the valve only. no need to spend another 200 bones. thanks again everyone
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,637 Posts
TooMany2cvs said:
If some monkey's slapped a bottle or two of RadWeld in there, though...
I would have thought that would have clogged the valve first. Have you seen how small the valve opening is? Since the valve is a constant flow device (ie. the position of the valve does not affect how much coolant flows in and out of the engine), the small orifice into the core is the most likely spot for radweld to accumulate...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
No I dont think that was done. I had the car before it started to leak and as soon as it did I had it bypassed. I live in phoenix and dont need heat that much. although it does get cold in the morning. like 25-30f.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Some heater core , heater valve info.

Congratulations on your removal of the valve and core assembly.
The Part: I replaced the heater valve with the SAAB part. QUite pricey at ~$115 from Eeuroparts.com. They sold me up from the cheaper $79 part on the basis, so they said, they get more returns on the cheaper one. I'll never know for sure but I bought the SAAB part due to the PITA factor.
The FOAM sealing tape: I re-foamed the heater core with some new home depot 1inch square self adhesive weather sealing foamtape.
The reason for this whole job in the first place was to address the coolant leak on my foot!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
954 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Ill let you know as I ordered the scantech valve from eeuroparts.com. I need to do a quick patch job on the core housing as I broke part of it and has now created a leak. the face vents dont work well cause all the air is going to the feet through the hole I created
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top