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Discussion Starter #1
Saab 9-5 I estate facelift YS3E, 2009.

One of the items picked up in my last tech inspection was that the (H7) LH full beam is too high (HID low beam is correct).

Pointing the lights at a wall in the dark, it's quite obviously projecting higher than the RH unit.

I've tried using the hex height adjuster, but that doesn't seem to affect anything, I've tried taking the bulb in and out but it seems to be in the housing correctly.

There is no obvious damage to the headlamp housing.

Is it even possible to adjust the high beam (H7) bulb independently of the D1S HID bulb? If not, what is wrong with Sigrid's lights?

Anyone had a problem like this before? And found a solution?

Thanks!
 

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I could be wrong but I believe that 9-5’s equipped with HID lights have sensors on the front and rear suspension that control the beam leveling. Maybe one of those has a problem. Do you have a caution light on the instrument panel?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Shaggy, you are right but I think they only move the shutters to adjust the HID beam height using stepper motors (you can see the steps when the car's angle changes), these are the same shutters which are raised in full beam. The housing itself (and therefore the H7 bulbs) are not affected.

The automatic low beam height adjustment is working fine on both sides.
 

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The short answer is no, there is no independent setting of the high beam reflector and its H7 bulb.

The longer answer is that the high beam will be correct if the low beam is set up properly and working properly. In the case of the HID, it gets complicated. :rolleyes:

Is there a yellow warning light on in the instrument panel? Kind of a headlight with arrows and an ! mark?

The HID lamps are self-levelling. If there's a problem with the sensors, the beams will drop to their lowest position. (This is true in the 2002-2005 cars, I don't think they changed for 2006+).

There is also a "calibration" that is done with the Tech II, where the car is at its normal height, and the HID modules are told to adjust the beams to the middle of their setting. Then you use the hex to physically adjust adjust the low beams to the proper height.

What it sounds like is that, maybe at one time, the level sensors were not working properly, and the headlight was cranked up using the hex key to get the dipped beams as high as possible. Note that each side has a separate module, and is calibrated separately. Now, the HID adjustment is still sitting too low, so it has been raised as much as possible physically. As you note, that makes the H7 high beam much too high.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks EdT, I understand. Somebody has overcompensated low HIDs by raising the headlamp units. That might explain why I can't seem to change anything with the mechanical adjuster - at the end of its range, or broken.

There is no warning light, but I'll connect up the Tech II tomorrow and have a play.
 

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You can also quickly check if there are the level sensors, the one on the front is easily visible on the right side if you turn the front of that wheel outwards. It's a little box with a linkage on it to the control arm, and a connector and cable running up the strut..

If there are no level sensors, then the HID headlights have been swapped in place of the halogen. There would be no warning light as there would be no wiring for the warning light. And Tech II won't say anything.

If the car is wired for HIDs, then the Tech Ii can show you what each module is seeing in the way of level sensors, and where the self-leveling motor is. You probably want to look at WIS and review the Tech II section of the HID lights information.

You can try turning the hex the other way, if the beam drops down, then at least you know that part isn't broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The HIDs are original, the front and rear boxes and linkages are there, and I can see the level adjusters working when I drive.

I'll have a look at the WIS section for HIDs, thanks. I tried to find something useful on the headlamp units in there already, but withous success so far.
 

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Saab 9-5 I estate facelift YS3E, 2009.

One of the items picked up in my last tech inspection was that the (H7) LH full beam is too high (HID low beam is correct).

Pointing the lights at a wall in the dark, it's quite obviously projecting higher than the RH unit.

I've tried using the hex height adjuster, but that doesn't seem to affect anything, I've tried taking the bulb in and out but it seems to be in the housing correctly.

There is no obvious damage to the headlamp housing.

Is it even possible to adjust the high beam (H7) bulb independently of the D1S HID bulb? If not, what is wrong with Sigrid's lights?

Anyone had a problem like this before? And found a solution?

Thanks!
Reverse your vehicle in a straight line so that the front of the headlights are 7.62 meters (25 feet) back from the wall. The goal of these instructions is to aim BOTH of your headlights so that the center of the Hot Spot is at the v of the horizontal X and vertical Y lines you have drawn.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, it looks as if the vertical adjustment system on the headlamp unit is broken. I turned it anticlockwise, clockwise, dozens of turns, but couldn't detect any movement at all in the headlamp beams. On one occasion it suddenly made a loud cracking noise (the turning torque was minimal, I did not feel any resistance or change), I thought I had broken something - but no change.

The plastic wheel underneath and at right angles to the adjuster is rotating, but no other part of the mechanism is visible or accessible from outside.

Has anyone had any experience with this?

Thanks!
 

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Reverse your vehicle in a straight line so that the front of the headlights are 7.62 meters (25 feet) back from the wall. The goal of these instructions is to aim BOTH of your headlights so that the center of the Hot Spot is at the v of the horizontal X and vertical Y lines you have drawn.
It's not that simple with HID headlights, as there is also computer-controlled beam height.

Well, it looks as if the vertical adjustment system on the headlamp unit is broken. I turned it anticlockwise, clockwise, dozens of turns, but couldn't detect any movement at all in the headlamp beams. On one occasion it suddenly made a loud cracking noise (the turning torque was minimal, I did not feel any resistance or change), I thought I had broken something - but no change.

The plastic wheel underneath and at right angles to the adjuster is rotating, but no other part of the mechanism is visible or accessible from outside.

Has anyone had any experience with this?

Thanks!
That doesn't sound good. On the older headlights, the adjuster used a ball end that snapped into a socked on the reflector. If it popped out, it was sometimes possible to pop it back in by running the adjuster out to its furthest limit, wedging itself in.

Take the headlight out and rock around the long axis. If the adjuster is loose, you'll see the reflector units moving as gravity pulls it from one side to the other.

If it's loose, you may be able to reseat it by pulling on the reflector, I guess through the high beam hole. It's a lot easier to do this if you can pull the headlight lens, like on the glass lens cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's quite simple, really...

If you turn the horizontal adjuster expecting vertical movement, you will be bitterly disappointed. The sound was indeed the ball popping out of the socket at the limit of its travel. I was able to pop it back in by removing the headlight housing, taking off the HID control unit to expose the inside of the headlight and using brute force to put it back in.

Taking off the lens is not recommnded - I tried lifting two of the clips and they both immediately snapped off - so many of the plastics used on these cars become extremely brittle after a few years' exposure to UV light. Fortunately, you can get decent access under the HID control unit.
 

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Okay, that's one mystery solved. But do you still have the H7 high beam shining too high when the HID dipped beam is set correctly?

And if the later cars are like the earlier, the height adjustment is done via a long 6mm hex key down through a hole in the radiator support/header.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes, once the basic setting of the high beams was correct I carried out the calibration using a Tech II clone.

The inner adjusters (closer to the middle of the car) are the horizontal ones, the vertical ones further out. Both require a long hex key.
 
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