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Discussion Starter #1
I guess I'll ask this question two ways:

I'm upgrading all speakers and installing a new 1500W amp (4x100W RMS at 4 Ohm). I thought I'd upgrade my speaker wires to 14 ga in the process. Dash and rear shelf are easy, but I'm getting stuck with the doors.

So, first I'll ask: how have others ran new wires to the door? If I understand my car's electrical harnesses correctly, the wires don't pass through the door, but connect via an electrical connector at the door (after the smurf tube). This is supposedly a bayonet connector (per WIS), but I must be pushing and twisting incorrectly because I cannot figure out how to get this thing off! But even if/when I do get it off, what then? There would still be no space for a new wire.

The second way I'll ask: is it even worth it? I'm guessing the OEM wire gauge is 18, yes? I haven't read an actual engineering explanation for using a larger wire gauge for lower power (i.e. not a competition setup) installs. Will I be fine with the existing wire?

Some notes on my setup: the amp I'm installing is a JBL GTR-104. It's got integrated Bluetooth, so I can run it without a head unit (I don't need/want/use radio, CDs, satellite; I just use my phone for all my music). So, I don't really need to use the existing audio wiring and harnesses. That's what got me down the rabbit hole of installing new speaker wiring in the first place!
 

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IMHO (just added same amp and JBL stage 600E 2 way speakers to ng 9-3) no wiring needed. Speakers have power about 50% of time and power loss in cables (transferred to heat) is extremely low.
 

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IMHO (just added same amp and JBL stage 600E 2 way speakers to ng 9-3) no wiring needed. Speakers have power about 50% of time and power loss in cables (transferred to heat) is extremely low.
Where did you decide to add the control module thingie - or did you skip it?

I opted to run new 14 gauge to the dash speakers (JBL CLUB3020), then series wire the doors (I opted for the GTO609C - ask me in two days, and I might wish I had gone with the 600C like you did). I'm assuming you wired your doors and dash speakers the same, no? If not, you're definitely going to be below 2 ohm RMS, which could fry that amp.

I'll do a major write-up of this install in a separate thread once I get it complete. I'm actually using my 2002 9-3 as a practice bed before I do the same install on my wife's 2002 9-3!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
IMHO (just added same amp and JBL stage 600E 2 way speakers to ng 9-3) no wiring needed. Speakers have power about 50% of time and power loss in cables (transferred to heat) is extremely low.
Oh, and show me a pic of where you mounted your door tweets! 'm about an hour away from drilling a hole in my door panel! I'm pretty sure I can do a flush mount if I drill a hole about 3" forward and about 2" down from the top of the inner door pull handle. I may have to sand off a few threads from the tweeter housing to do so. No room for cowards!
 

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I suggest that you forget club 3020 to dash and mount just 600E.
Tweeters are mounted on dash in original places with punched strips.
Doors has original wirings and I do not change them. Mids fits perfectly in original places in front doors.
Control modules are so tiny, that I just put them under dash and secured them with tie cable ties.
Subwoofer is Ground Zero Titanium series 8" active subwoofer. Sub volume control is in left under floor box.

Amplifier and active sub are under trunk floor both sides of tool box. I used REC Red/Grey 6mm2 supply to amp and active sub power (come from UEC and it has 60A maxi fuse in UEC). I attached 40A maxifuse to REC "place" (soldered fuse holders).
I also put Ground Zero gold sound insulation in trunk and front doors (total about 3m2).

This allows you use whole trunk capacity all time.

Sorry, I have no pics, because this car is not mine, it is my friend's car.
BTW: He called and said that car sounds great (even his 14 yr boy is very pleased about sound now.
 

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Most folks run speaker wire that is way over gauge. Most of that is from hype by manufacturers of super-size, non-oxygen, dipped in unobtanium, gold plated copper. At the distances you're talking, upgrading isn't much of a concern.

Here's an audiophile's view if you want it: http://www.audioholics.com/audio-video-cables/speaker-cable-gauge . Be sure to read the Recommendation section where he backs it down to reality. Here's a techie discussion: Wiki: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Speaker_wire

There are some open pins in that door connector. You could get some factory pins (maybe) and run your upgraded wire through with those... or salvage some factory pins, cut the wires off, and try to solder wires direct to those in a very cylindrical way (so that they fit back into the connector).
 
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