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Discussion Starter #1
The car I am purchasing definatly needs new pads in the rear. I usually just replace the rotors when I do my brakes because they are cheap ($20 a pop). With this car they are around $75 a pop, and I was wondering if I could get another use out of the rotors. I called the dealership and of course they said they need to be replaced everytime you do the pads.

Does anyone know? How can I check? Will the pads last less if the rotors have been used?

Thanks!
 

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These rotors are on the thin side to begin with. Starting with new rotors or cutting old ones is the best way to insure a flat mating surface and reduce the possibility of annoying brake squeal.

I don't think anyone here has had their old rotors cut. On other cars, I usually just looks at the rotor and, if the grooves aren't more than 1-2 mm deep, I keep using them. Sometimes there is runout or warpage and they still make noise.

I would try doing just the pads and see how it goes. These cars are funny in that a few people here are seeing rear brakes wear pretty hard, while others are getting ~40K out of the front and 60-80K out of the rear. There is tremendous variability in how people use their brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
are there minimum specs that I can check?
Do they have to be turned? Are you saying if i don't turn then I could have noisy brakes?
Can a place like Midas turn them?
 

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Hmm,

I was so convinced from others that I needed to replace the rotors so when I took my car in for brakes, I requested to have them replaced( $ dealer cost for pads and rotor in Seattle was $605). My service adviser said that was not true and assured me I only need new pads.
 

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robhurlburt said:
are there minimum specs that I can check?
Do they have to be turned? Are you saying if i don't turn then I could have noisy brakes?
Can a place like Midas turn them?
Any more than 1mm wear on each side (i.e. the discs are 2mm thinner) then they should be replaced.

As for machining them, it depends if they are heavily grooved. Replacement pads are shamfered to reduce squeal, so if the discs are smooth they should be alright without being turned.
 

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I was also doubting wether to replace the rotors or not. I found some specs on a german site (added translation):

Ø 278 mm
Bremssch.Dicke 11,9 mm - thickness
Mindestdicke 10 mm - minimum thickness
Bremsscheibenausführung: Voll, - full disc
Lochanzahl 5 - holes
Höhe 41,4 mm - width
Zentrierungsdurchmesser 65,5 mm - center diameter
Innendurchmesser 145,2 mm - inner diameter
Lochkreis-Ø 110 mm - hole circle diameter
Bohrung-Ø 14 mm - hole diameter

I just took a look at mine, wear depth was 1.2 mm on one side, assuming they were evenly on the in and outside I need to order them as well.

As you see the specs are consistent with JBob's post.

Hope this helps you decide.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
just did my friends rears last night :(

Finding that e-18 socket was a pain, and then when we found one we only found a deep one from harbor freight:roll: You can imagine the quality. 4 hours later we were done
 
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