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I just can't figure out which part of the adjuster needs to be turned, and what direction? I've stared at it, tinkered with it, just can't seem to get it. I'm looking for a simple "turn this nut this direction" sort of instruction.
I ended up having my friend fix it and asked him to explain, I've since forgotten. Maybe he did, maybe he didn't I can't remember. If you find out, please post in here!
 

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If you need more freeplay in the clutch, you need to shorten it by screwing the adjustment nuts closer together. If you need less freeplay, then screw the adjustment nuts farther apart. By turning them, you should see whether you are loosening or tightening them. That's why I like the OEM self-adjustable cables... Ron
 

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The ones in the middle. There are a pair of nuts, one of them is a lock nut, in the middle of the cable. Loosen the lock nut first. You want to LENGTHEN the sheath, which puts more tension on the cable inside. IIRC, you turn the center nut closest to the distal end of the cable (closest to the front of the car) counterclockwise. These cables need to travel a certain distance relative to the sheath length. As the inner cable stretches, they no longer have the requisite travel, so you need to lengthen the sheath to restore this travel. Here are the cables, stock self-adjusting on top (thanks to Jeremy R's earlier post of 06/20/05):

I believe you can see the sheath separate or lengthen as you turn it, when you are turning it correctly. Glad I went hydraulic.
 

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Okay, I just reviewed the SaabSite FAQ for this. It is the nut in the center that drives the plastic bolt shank into and out of the long white plastic hosuing. More bolt threads showing means expanded sheath (tighter cable) and fewer threads showing means the opposite. So, start turning the nuts in opposite directions and see which way starts exposing the threads on the shank. This will be the correct way to go.
 

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Another often overlooked item is lube on the clutch shaft

There is a way to open an inspection port in the transmission and squirt a bit of grease on to the shaft where the throwout bearing slides. Makes the workload less on the cable system. Extends it's life and makes clutch pedal effort easier. search here for more detailed intructions. 5 minute job.

Best,

John
 

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It takes me more than five minutes just to get that little plastic cover off and on. I finally drew arrows on it (the inside) so i knew which way was up... Ron
 

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Well, that went poorly...tried to adjust it and broke the plastic housing instead. The clutch still works for the moment, but I need a new cable. So much for a simple little 5 minute job.
 

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Did you figure it out? It's pretty easy. Just hold the center section with a wrench and unscrew the right section with a wrench on the top, pulling towards you. This will lengthen the cable and take out the free play. The brass things on each end are not used to adjust the cable... Ron
 

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Sign of failing clutch cable

Generally, the best way to tell if you have a problem with the self-adjusting cable is if there is too much free-play at the top of the pedal and the clutch engages too close to the floor boards.

If you move the pedal by hand, you should only be able to move it about 2cm before you start to feel resistance. If you can move it more than that, the auto-adjuster is not doing its job. That will make the clutch engage too early or not dis-engage fully which causes problems shifting.

John
Think about it this way...

If your clutch friction plate is wearing out, the engagement point will get HIGHER in the pedal travel, i.e. the clutch will disengage easier, with less throw of the pedal.

On the other hand, if the engagement point is getting closer to the floor and gears are hard to change, well that means your clutch cable is "stretching". Except they don't really stretch at all. What it really means is that your clutch cable is beginning to fail. Could be the wire fraying and on the way to snapping, could be the nipple on the end pulling off, etc. Whatever, it's time to replace your cable before it snaps and strands you.

Note: this is not referring to initial installation before the auto-adjuster does its job. this refers to changes during the working life of the clutch cable.
 

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You can also do the adjustment alone. The first thing to do is undo the one 10mm nut and the various clips holding the black, trapezoidal relay box to the firewall (if you're in the US. If you're in the UK, well I have no clue :p ). Gently move this box out of the way (there's a big slug of wires coming out of it so you don't want to mess them up). Once this is moved you should be able to see the cable coming out of the firewall. If you grab the thin black part of the sheath and tug and wiggle it while sort of pushing the large rubbery part towards the firewall you'll hopefull hear a couple small clicks. That's it!

Also nearby, you'll see a bracket that holds the cable in place coming up from below. If the cable has slippeed out of this bracket you'll get a squidgy feeling clutch pedal too.

When you're tired of this routine, you can get a manually adjustable cable from thesaabsite and other places. I'm very very happy with mine these days.

Edit: check this post, it's illustrated!

Clutch cable went slack, help!
Hello!! I have a question about that "couple of small clicks" process.

I recently worked on my cable and pulled the spring covered zone of the clutch cable to take out a bit of loose and actually heard the few clicks you are talking about.
(There was a loose in the pedal of about 1 1/2 inch before and I also had to floor the pedal to the carpet to change gears without grinding sound)

But then I realized that I did too much pull (heard about 5 clicks) on that process and now clutch if very high!!
(It have solved my grinding problem and I can now switch gears very easily but it's just not fun to drive this way...)

So I was wondering : Is there a way to put that clicking cable system to its original position? (so the spring covered part is not curved anymore)

The clicking system seams to be into that plastic round part covered with a rubber part. Any way to reset this thing?

272185

Thanks for your advice on that!
 
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