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Discussion Starter #1
Hiya

I'm new to the forum and have a question:cheesy:. I have a 9-3 Airo (2.0T) 210 bhp.
Now I'm considering the Hirsch tuning step 1 upgrade, which will upgrade the engine to deliver 240 bhp.

The improvement from the original lower spec Saab appears to be more impressive, than the upgrade from the model I have.

Has any of you done this? What is your experience. Is it worth spending the money :roll:?!

Thanks!
 

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Hiya

I'm new to the forum and have a question:cheesy:. I have a 9-3 Airo (2.0T) 210 bhp.
Now I'm considering the Hirsch tuning step 1 upgrade, which will upgrade the engine to deliver 240 bhp.

The improvement from the original lower spec Saab appears to be more impressive, than the upgrade from the model I have.

Has any of you done this? What is your experience. Is it worth spending the money :roll:?!

Thanks!
Are you still under warranty? If so it might be the way to go for you as I am pretty sure the Hirsch does not void the warrenty. However if you are out of warranty or do not care about the warranty there are much cheaper options!
 

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i'm still under warranty and on hirsch stg 1, but who cares, i'm going to take the route that you had taken for stg 3!

cheerios.....:cheesy:
 

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I also have a Saab 9-3SS Aero 2.0T which had Hirsch Stage 1 on it.
The car really shows to be more powerful than the stock one and the economy is excellent. It is also very safe for the engine.

However, I upgraded it from Hirsch to Maptun Stage 1.

My first impressions on the differences in driving performance.

1) It is like driving a different car. The car now seems far more urgent and the engine is much more responsive from idle and the turbo kicks in much earlier. It resembles, in behavior, a non-turbo (atmospheric) engine of large capacity which can rev easily high.

2) Consumption now is a bit higher. It is probably because the turbo is now always there, even by lightly stepping on the gas pedal. And the turbine now works harder and spinning more often than before. So the necessary service on the turbine must be done at a mileage much earlier than before.

3) With the Hirsch software, the real "turbo kick" started half way of the gas pedal travel. Now the turbo starts from the very-very beginning and the turbo needle passes easily and more often into the 2nd half of the scale.

4) The way the car was driving before (i.e. with Hirsch) resembled more or less a mercedes-style of driving (quiet, smooth, calm, polished, relaxing, turbo only when hard pressed). Now it better resembles a sports car driving style! The car makes you drive it hard and has a sporty behaviour. By slightly stepping on the gas, the car gets off quickly faster.

5) With the Hirsch upgrade the car felt somehow heavy! Now you can't feel or tell about its weight. The power is already there from the first moment.
 

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do you have dyno chart for MT stg 1?

cheerios.....:cheesy:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the response chris_de_ze. I've just left the warranty.

Is there much difference between the Hirsch and the BSR Stage 1. Hirsch do an offer for close to 499 at the moment. Is the BSR cheaper? Are there alternatives that deliver more power for less £££ ?

Cheers.
 

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BSR stage 1 feels this way too, heavy. nice write-up, wish someone would do that with a Nordic stage 1. Im considering a new tune when out of warranty.
I read a writeup recently on a dyno run comparing BSR stage 1 with Nordic stage 1 on the same car (sorry, I can't remember where or I'd include the link!). Anyway, the BSR hp was higher in the >2500 rpm while Nordic was higher in the >4500 range. The conclusion was that the Nordic would outrun the BSR in a 1/4 mile dash since most of run would be in the higher rpms.

As far as feeling heavy though, I'd say the BSR would actually feel the lightest because of the lower rpms boost.
 

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I read a writeup recently on a dyno run comparing BSR stage 1 with Nordic stage 1 on the same car (sorry, I can't remember where or I'd include the link!). Anyway, the BSR hp was higher in the >2500 rpm while Nordic was higher in the >4500 range. The conclusion was that the Nordic would outrun the BSR in a 1/4 mile dash since most of run would be in the higher rpms.

As far as feeling heavy though, I'd say the BSR would actually feel the lightest because of the lower rpms boost.

ya I remember Nick posting that Nordic beats BSR on the dragstrip. with BSR my car feels heavy, sluggish until u hit about 3500rpm. from there on, its fast! strange, there are very few Noric stage 1 users here.
 

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I have not dynoed my car yet. I will do it sometime.

I was always looking for "alternatives that deliver more power for less £££", as ahoff said.
Since a long time now, I 've made my search through a lot of fora to see what other people have to say. In an Australian forum, a guy wrote that he was not very happy about the AFR diagrams produced as a result of BSR tuning. In various posts (from various fora), some owners were complaining about premature clutch slipping due to BSR tuning. I don't know if this is all true or not. But I have not seen any single post so far with bad reports about Maptun (or Hirsch or Nordic or Abbott) tuning. A lot of satisfied posts.

Abbott and Nordic do not have a personal device (like maptuner or PPC) to tune your car. You have to send them your ECU. I also read somewhere that Nordic for some time had some sort of survival problems as a company (maybe by now everything would be OK).

So I decided to go for Maptun. I had a long and lengthy correspondence with Maptun, by asking a lot of questions, before deciding to buy.
They have also sent me a rototest diagram for a 2007 9-3SS Aero.
I post it here (with their permission).

I am also using 95RON unleaded (instead of the recommended 98) and the car still performs pretty well.
I have also tested it on the same exactly distances, at the same speeds, that I use to drive every day. The car now does not feel sluggish at all. Its weight does not show. With Hirsch, on some uphill distances, with 6th gear, the car felt heavy. Some times, at low speeds, I had to shift to 5th. Now 6th all the way even at low speeds. The car now is more fun to drive.

Please note that real car performance does not rely only on max values of horsepower and torque (as we use to measure them and report them). In real world, what is mostly important on the road is the area underneath the torque curve. This makes a car to be faster than another (even with lower max values of horsepower and torque).
 

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