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Good Morning,

Hope all UK and Irish had a good 4 days off, and have a hangover as bad as mine!!! :cry:

My 1988 900 16v Tirbo Vert has done a grand total of 237000 miles, and is still sounding okay under the hood, and running very well. And I'd like to keep it that way. Is there anything I can put in do to make sure she keeps her running sound and good? Or any thing I should do or be on the look our for?

Thanks in advance,

Apip
 

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yup, void the car of all rust! really, get under the car a remove thoes spots (THEY ARE THERE), clean out the engine bay and take car of thoes. change the oil, get a tune up (timming and all), change gear oil to honda mtf:) , wash the car really well and polish then wax it, then wax it again:cheesy: , keep on top of all the little things and she should go and go and go until the government takes away your DL! also....let that turbo cool down, adopt double clutching, allow the car to idle for a minute on cold mornings, bleed the hyraulics every year, ect. ect. ect.
 

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Misunderstood I think.

Trust me my car is one of the cleanest examples you will find so no need to worry about rust And god forbid would I dive a dirty car!!!!
.. My question was regarding the engine its self. I was told that there is a solution you can put into your engine that 'fills in any gaps' made thru ware and tear of a high mileage car?

Any one have an idea on this?????
 

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Steer clear of snake oil! :cheesy:

Personally, I would keep clear of all this stuff, regular oil and filter changes will do far better! Just my thoughts (as a professional :cheesy: ) as I have seen some horrible gungy messes inside engines caused by this sort of thing!
 

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Agreed. Frequent oil and filter changes is the single best thing you can do to prolong the life of the engine on an older car.
 

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as already said above just keep changing the oil & filter every 3 to 6 months never mind the mileage ;)

I know of Swedish motors (Volvos) with 400k+ on the clock & still running OK..all the owner did to the motor was a oil & filter every 3 to 6 months & a full service once every 6 months...

HTH Paul

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Full Throttle until you see God, then Brake..
 

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i think you're probably referring to the z-max stuff, or something like it. possibly also the "restore" engine restorer thing. while this will make a poorly running car run better, it virtually glues the engine together. i have a friend who put it in his old car and it made a huge difference for the better. however, when it came time to pull the engine apart, it, well, wouldn't come apart. very difficult. they tend to have wax or something to fill in the stuff, just as it claims. being that your car is a very nice car, the only additives i'd use are like the fuel injector cleaners, stuff like that. considering the age, next time your fuel is low i'd put some of that dry gas stuff in there. just to make sure you don't have any water in it or anything.

one of the best things you can do for it, going beyond oil changes, is buying a high-quality gauze air filter and keeping it very clean and well-oiled. not only will you increase performance and mileage but you'll protect your engine much better---plus save money in the long run. high mileage oil seems to be an obvious good idea. make sure it's synthetic. maybe amsoil or mobil 1. haven't read up much on like valvoline max-life, maybe it's good stuff.

and check for the rust. no matter how clean your car looks on the outside, there may be some little spots underneath. good luck!
 

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i thought that engine stuff used copper to fill the gaps, as copper is somewhat soft and works its way into everything! my dad once told me about his 63' vw beatle, the engine seized one day. took it in to a mechanic who discovered that a copper based engine oil restorer had been used. it worked its way into everything and eventually led to seizure, a major rebuild was the only reapir with large numbers of parts not restorable. anything meant to "help" you engine is fatal in the long run. "slick 50" is terrible as well, my uncle puts it in his bmw 7 series, amazing how some people can be taken over by marketing!
(edit)-if you can't find rust, your not looking hard enough, pull out the carpets and everything, how about the rear floor compartment, or take off thoes wheel arch covers-the dirt and debris in here is famous for rotting saab arches! remove the mudflaps, lots of dirst/debris. clean out you sil drain holes-i think corosion protection is very important when it comes to saab, seems most of the time this is what makes people let them go!-i'm one of thoes people;)
 

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Is the engine noisy? If not, just keep it serviced. If it's noisy or smokey, you could treat it to a rebuild. Shouldn't be necessary yet 'cos they're made of iron or something like that. Any wear gets sorted out at a rebuild. Crankshaft gets polished and new bearings, cylinders get bored {only if necessary} or just new rings. Timing chain gets replaced and pretty much everything else gets reused.
 

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apip99 said:
...My 1988 900 16v Tirbo Vert has done a grand total of 237000 miles, and is still sounding okay under the hood, and running very well. And I'd like to keep it that way. Is there anything I can put in do to make sure she keeps her running sound and good? Or any thing I should do or be on the look our for?...
About the same milage as mine (388000 km) and she's just running fine. got a compliment of a Saab car mechanic on how good looking she still was, no rust underneath, very silent inside and running almost perfectly. I think there's a slight vacuum leak though... :confused: changed the oil some 6000 km's ago so planning on an oil change in a few weeks.
Btw the car is running on LPG which keeps the engine and the oil much cleaner than with running on petrol. the oil (10W40 semi-synth) is still clear and the a little bit slightly darker as it was 6000 km's ago.

regular maintenance (including some fresh blood ;)) is what keeps them going :D
 

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My '88 900S now has 270,400 miles. At 260,000 I replaced its head gasket, and this gave me a chance to examine the engine. There was no wear or damage to the valves, and I could not feel a wear ridge in any of the cylinders. And the timing chain tensioner was extended 9mm, comfortably under the maximum of 11mm.

These things just don't wear out :) Keep changing your oil every 5,000 miles, and you'll see the far side of 300k miles or more before you need any engine work.

Oh, and forget about any of those fancy "miracle" additives; not only do they not work, the "science" behind their theories of operation is laughable to anyone with any knowledge of chemistry or physics:roll:
 

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VERY impressive. i had a friend whose '83 900 turbo went something like 340k miles without any major engine work. it was even on the original tranny and turbo. amazing.:cheesy:
 

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Rust

I'd endorse the comments about rust prevention. I bought my 900 with 117k on the clock and she looked clean. However underneath was a different story and it needed a full coat of underseal from top to toe including wheel arches etc. Only cost £65 but well worth it. The car is currently having a bit of surface rust on the wheel arch (by the trim) treated. Again important to nip anything in the bud.

11 years ago I owned a tidy little 94. She had a blob of rust which I removed and filled / resprayed on the front wing. Did the underseal job and sprayed waxoil into every possible place - even drilled some holes in the sills and got in there. Saw the same car a few weeks ago and she still had no rust anywhere else. Good old Saab metal. Well worth the effort.:D
 
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