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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
It is not a ground wire, the electric hassle continues and the car won't start

It all started when I took out the wiper tank to access the wiper pump. So I was messing on that side of the car, including disconnecting the 3 way plug to disable the right hand side headlight wiper motor, which is broken. Everything was straight forward and took 10 minutes. Only to realize that I have lost the cabin light (mirror and ceiling), the central locking, and on top of that the car wouldn't start. When I turn the key, all the lights on the dash come up but the starter is not spinning. My battery is strong. To what I picked up from the forum, there might be a loose ground wire somewhere. But the wiper's electrics that I was messing with are on the opposite side of the starter and the alternator. What wire could I have possibly pulled on the battery side that has caused the malfunctioning? Any tips and help with locating ground wires would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The earthing point on the lower cross member beneath the radiator is a point for a number of electrical things needing a ground, regardless of their relative location in the engine bay.

Judging from the gradual dying of things electrical, I'd trace the earthing from the battery & to the items eg starter solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
it is not a ground wire, the electric hassle continues and the car won't start

Today I checked all earthing points and they are all in tact. So is the wire coming from the battery to the front of the transmission. The starter and alternator also seem grounded properly and all their wires are in tact too.

So I am really puzzled. As I said before, the starter doesn't even spin when you turn the key. Does this indicate a starter issue? But then again, what would be the connecction with the cabin light and the central locking that went off at the same time? There has to be some logic behind these three things happening at the same time.

I just have a feeling it is something really small right under my nose and I don't want to tow it yet.
 

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And what about fuses? Central locking and cabin light are components, what are always "live", that is, what is common for them.

For starter - disconnect thin wire (yellow one?), what goes into starter, connect it to multimetter and try to start. There should be voltage, when key is at start position. If there is voltage, starter is dead, if there is nothing, wiring issue... Starter is heavy grounded, so there shouldn't be problem (if battery is good connected).
Front ground point serves for headlight, flasher, fan, horn, APC, washer pump, etc., not for central locking or interior light. These components are grounded inside car - dashboard crossmember and center console.
 

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By the way, have you got gear selector at P or N (start inhibitor switch), when trying to start it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
misu said:
And what about fuses? Central locking and cabin light are components, what are alwAnd what about fuses? Central locking and cabin light are components, what are always "live", that is, what is common for them.
ays "live", that is, what is common for them.

misu said:
By the way, have you got gear selector at P or N (start inhibitor switch), when trying to start it?
Yes, fuses are ok. And yes, the gear selector is at P when I try to start. However, the effect is exactly the same as if it was on D or R - the starter doesn't even spin. So it is not the fuses, it's not the ground wires, you are saying that the interior light and the power lock appear to be independent issues, unrelated to the starting problem. Should I test the starter then? I am out of options.
Thanks!
 

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Look at diagram.
http://townsendimports.com/Web/electrical_system_folder/Electrical_900_89-90/044-47.jpg
Wiring is very easy. from battery across fusebox to ignition switch, then to inhibitor switch, back to fusebox and to the starter. Check voltage at ignition switch at terminal 30, then (when you turn it to strat position) at terminal 50, then at inhibitor switch and then at starter connector. Do not forget hold it at start position, when checking voltage at all points after ignition switch 50.
You should find, where it is broken. If there is voltage everythere from battery to starter, then problem lies at starter, or inside that thick cable from battery to starter. Maybe just a loose connector, loose cable at connector, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Misu. That was the troubleshooting I was looking for from the very begining. The diagram is really useful. Maybe you should pass it along to the moderators in case they don't already have it of course. Now, armed with all that I should be able to find where the problem is.

Thanks a lot again and "pozdravy" to your wonderful country.

Rossen
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Issues resolved, feedback

Just for the sake of the forum and if someone comes across the same situation, it turned out to be nothing else but an after market alarm that was blocking the ignition and just needed to be disabled.

As to the sudden disappearance of the cabin light and the central locking, it was just a stupid coincidence, unrelated with the alarm/starting issue: they are both on the same fuse under the rear seat and that fuse was simply blown, which surprisingly nobody on the forum even guessed, so here is a tip on cabin light and power lock gone at the same time.
 
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