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Discussion Starter #1
I could use help on this one. I have a US spec. 2004 9-5 Aero and I've been getting an intermittant Check Engine Light ~ only on very hot days. The Error Code is P0340 [Camshaft sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or single Sensor)]

I am trying to determine if this is a project I can take on myself,. Can anyone tell me ~ better yet ~ show me the location of the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I agree I didn't see any camshaft sensors Saw other posts that claim that with generic reader that code means Crankshaft sensor .... The cars got 147K miles with original sensor. Any thoughts?
 

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my viggen had the sporatic P0340.....car ran fine other than the CEL coming on sporatically.

Turned out to be the DI cassette.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my viggen had the sporatic P0340.....car ran fine other than the CEL coming on sporatically.

Turned out to be the DI cassette.
I swapped out the cassette last night. So far no more Engine Light. I know for sure after a few more 90F+ days.
Thanks to all
the for help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Code Update

Just to be sure I had truly found the problem, I checked out the spark plugs and they had a large coating of sediment buildup. The iridium tip was showing signs of wear - gap was over spec and the plug resistance was very high. So I changed the plugs (NJGK Lazer Platinum - PFR6H-10)and reinstalled the questionable DI Cassette. The problem is still gone. Still no hesitation or engine light. Not sure why the engine light went out with just the change of the DI cassette but it looks like there was no problem with the DI cassette~ only the plugs. Weather has been in the high 80s into the 90F for a few days and still no problem.

Suggestion: if you get error code P0340 check/change your plugs first before changing out the cassette.
 

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"If your plugs were in fact iridium then that was the problem" When you get that code the first thing you should check are the plugs.

Just to be sure I had truly found the problem, I checked out the spark plugs and they had a large coating of sediment buildup. The iridium tip was showing signs of wear - gap was over spec and the plug resistance was very high. So I changed the plugs (NJGK Lazer Platinum - PFR6H-10)and reinstalled the questionable DI Cassette. The problem is still gone. Still no hesitation or engine light. Not sure why the engine light went out with just the change of the DI cassette but it looks like there was no problem with the DI cassette~ only the plugs. Weather has been in the high 80s into the 90F for a few days and still no problem.

Suggestion: if you get error code P0340 check/change your plugs first before changing out the cassette.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I spoke incorrectly~The plugs were PFR6H-10 (as the manual calls out) but they were Platinum plugs.

I didn't know Iridium plugs were no good. The NGK site even has an Iridium plug for the Aero.

Cars, Trucks & SUVs
2004 SAAB 9-5 AERO 2.3 L4 B235R FI Turbo

Iridium IX BCPR6EIX-11 4919
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp


Do you or anyone know why the plugs don't work correctly in the Aero?
Different resistance ratings?
 

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It fires to hot for the T7 system and they will cause damage to the DIC.
I spoke incorrectly~The plugs were PFR6H-10 (as the manual calls out) but they were Platinum plugs.

I didn't know Iridium plugs were no good. The NGK site even has an Iridium plug for the Aero.

Cars, Trucks & SUVs
2004 SAAB 9-5 AERO 2.3 L4 B235R FI Turbo


Iridium IX BCPR6EIX-11 4919
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/part_finder/car_truck_suv/results.asp


Do you or anyone know why the plugs don't work correctly in the Aero?
Different resistance ratings?
 

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I figured i'd bring up an old, useful thread instead of cluttering up with a new one. I have just started encountering the intermittent P0340, so I pulled my spark plugs hoping they were the wrong ones and turns out the're the right NGK Platinums for this car. The car got upgraded to the ver. 3.7 DIC, '06 vintage, assumedly at the dealer years ago, but I have a spare ver. 3.6 '04 vintage DIC in the trunk that does work. I'm wondering if I should expect this thing to die on me pretty soon.

My plugs, they look OK to me.. what do you all think?


I was considering changing the spark plugs.. but considering they aren't misfiring or anything.. think its necessary? I've encountered a bit of a drop in fuel economy too, maybe 2-3 mpg less than a few months ago, but 235's on RKI's vs 225's on klingons might have something to do with that..

Here's the DIC that is causing the CEL


And here's the backup I have in the trunk
 

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I would change the plugs, install the TK3.6 and keep the 3.7 as the backup; when you store these; always keep them in the upright position. My 3.6 (as per dealer records) was changed at 27K now has 146K and still going (if it’s the same one); I got the car at 116K; but I have a few back-ups.
 

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Those plugs are bad, the thrid is burning way hot and the 4th looks like its on its way out...

I dont; kno whwo you can say it was runnign ok no missing on plugs after seeing the code. That means somethings up so whay not try plugs first.

If you dontl lile spending big$$$ on thos platinums switch to the regulasr plugs you jsut have to change them at 15 insted of 30 K miles....
 

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Iridium NGK

What is wrong with Iridium plugs? I looked up the application on NGK's site. I figured that the plugs would last a bit longer in my Stage 1 tune. Anyone have more info on this, showing specifically what damage they cause? Do they cause running problems? Just dropped $30 on them and prefer not to trash them before seeing some evidence.
 

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With the iridium’s; your car will start throwing excessive knock codes. The way the iridium’s fire it won't retard knocks as the resistor or platinum NGK's would and would do damage to the DIC (cracks) that's why the NGK's are highly recommended for these cars.


What is wrong with Iridium plugs? I looked up the application on NGK's site. I figured that the plugs would last a bit longer in my Stage 1 tune. Anyone have more info on this, showing specifically what damage they cause? Do they cause running problems? Just dropped $30 on them and prefer not to trash them before seeing some evidence.
 

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What is wrong with Iridium plugs? I looked up the application on NGK's site. I figured that the plugs would last a bit longer in my Stage 1 tune. Anyone have more info on this, showing specifically what damage they cause? Do they cause running problems? Just dropped $30 on them and prefer not to trash them before seeing some evidence.
Yes they FIT the threads, yes they have the correct depth, yes the right heat range, are they made of the same material? NO, are the electrodes the same design? NO

These new "improved" plugs did not exist when Saab designed teh DI of T7, if you think that NGK bench tested them on a T7 car, then of course go buy them.

For the added cost and "potential" in compatibility I will stay with my BCPR6ES plugs

With the iridium’s; your car will start throwing excessive knock codes. The way the iridium’s fire it won't retard knocks as the resistor or platinum NGK's would and would do damage to the DIC (cracks) that's why the NGK's are highly recommended for these cars.
Well said.. I think I have a set of Iridiums in my garage, I will put them in and run the SID through its paces to see whats what when I get the chance
 

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Back in June I was having issues with my DIC, a few posts prior to this you can see I was throwing a P0340 and posted my spark plugs. I changed out my plugs since then, and upgraded to BCPR7ES-11 as suggested since I got a tune. The code disappeared since then and I chalked it up to a bad set of plugs...

A couple days ago, it started throwing a P0340 & a P1300. Sometimes the CEL is blinking too. It happened right after our first really cold night so I kinda figured it was because of that, but no matter how many times I clear it, it keeps coming up within the first 30 secs of turning the car on.

Here's a pic of my plugs, less than 6 months old, I think they're OK but im sure some of you have a better eye than me with this.



As stated before, I have a version 3.6 DIC as a backup that I keep with me. I tested it in June and it didn't throw a code. Saaber95er suggested I swap the 3.6 as my primary and keep the 3.7 as a backup, but when the code seemed to clear I decided to keep the 3.7 in.

Where should I go from here? Put the 3.6 in as my primary and keep the 3.7 as a backup? get rid of the 3.7 and look for another backup? Look at something else?
 

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Dic

If I'm not missing something, don't the symptoms point to the DIC? If I understood, you have the 3.7 in there and the 3.6 as backup. I guess it's not impossible that the newer one could be on the way out.

Have you tried swapping?

Sorry if I missed anything else. I can't imagine what else it might be - your plugs look good to me.
 
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