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Discussion Starter #1
Before I start, the engine has some issues a couple years in when I got the car. the ignition coil was faulty and they replaced the bad one and the spark plugs I believe and it ran and worked perfectly.

But recently it wouldn't start, the engine would choke when trying to turn, had no choice but to have it towed to a dealership where they told me my engine is not holding pressure and that it could have a crack, so I had the car moved to an another dealership and they managed to fix it, turns out the engine was flooded because it was started on a cold day and turned off pretty quickly without letting it ran for a bit, they did a couple of oil changes to flush out the flooded gas and replaced the starters (I think, can't remember, apparently it was flooded), so ever since then when I start the car, the engine does not feel very smooth and there is a little bit of white smoke from the car, when I let the car run for a bit, the engine seems ok and performance seems fine too, I don't hear any odd noises from the engine, has anyone had something similar to this, anyone know what it is?

car only driven for about 68000km, regular oil changes (every 7000km) and always use premium gas.

thanks for any input.
 

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Unfortunately it sounds like your intake valves are failing. 2007 was not a good year for the 2.0T. Sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Intake valves

Do u know if the intake valves are easy to replace? I don't mind spending some money to have that problem fixed.

Thanks
 

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It is a pretty big job involving removal of the cylinder head. Not inexpensive at all. Probably over $1000.
 

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Unfortunately it sounds like your intake valves are failing. 2007 was not a good year for the 2.0T. Sorry.
Was this unique to the 2007 MY ?
 

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Not sure I really agree.

I have 2007 with 130k miles on it with a stage 1 tune and the only issue I have ever had is a bad crank shaft sensor. I still have the original clutch also.
 

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I believe the theory is that they used intake valves on some 2007-8 2.0T's that weren't tempered enough and wear prematurely. It could have been a bad batch and it only affected cars made with those bad valves. I read another theory that they accidentally used Cobalt intake valves (nonturbo) and they weren't up to the same spec as the turbo charged requirements.

Who cares what the real story is but the fact remains that some of us have bad intake valves...its an indisputable problem at this point...having a 2007 I'm crossing my fingers its not my car.


Before diving into the job you would be wise to have a compression test and leak down test to confirm.
 

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Before diving into the job you would be wise to have a compression test and leak down test to confirm.
Sounds like he already had a compression test done. That's why I think it's the valves.
 

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Not sure I really agree.

I have 2007 with 130k miles on it with a stage 1 tune and the only issue I have ever had is a bad crank shaft sensor. I still have the original clutch also.
I don't think anyone insinuated that all 2007's have this problem, but it is starting to show up more frequently as they get up there in mileage.
 

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Sounds like he already had a compression test done. That's why I think it's the valves.
"Not holding pressure" seems to indicate a leak-down test which is even better in diagnosing the intake valves.......also that "there could be a crack" could indicate that they think its a cracked valve...a crack in the head? But these details are far from clear and I feel like we are interpreting a bit and there are questions in the details like: what they heck are the starters?

I'm just saying that the op might be better off writing down everything the shops tell you so you don't have to rely solely on recall. Do you still have the diagnosis invoice....does it spell out the tests and procedures done? It seems that a dealership or repair shop that specializes on saabs should be able to give you a diagnosis that is a bit more black and white for this common problem like: "Its your intake valves that need to be replaced.....here is an estimate". Since, from what I read, they didn't come to this conclusion I think it would be prudent to get a better diagnosis that is a bit more absolute.

calgarysaab93, do you have anything in writing from these two dealers that you can refer back to? Can you share the details?
 

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Before I start, the engine has some issues a couple years in when I got the car. the ignition coil was faulty and they replaced the bad one and the spark plugs I believe and it ran and worked perfectly.

But recently it wouldn't start, the engine would choke when trying to turn, had no choice but to have it towed to a dealership where they told me my engine is not holding pressure and that it could have a crack, so I had the car moved to an another dealership and they managed to fix it, turns out the engine was flooded because it was started on a cold day and turned off pretty quickly without letting it ran for a bit, they did a couple of oil changes to flush out the flooded gas and replaced the starters (I think, can't remember, apparently it was flooded), so ever since then when I start the car, the engine does not feel very smooth and there is a little bit of white smoke from the car, when I let the car run for a bit, the engine seems ok and performance seems fine too, I don't hear any odd noises from the engine, has anyone had something similar to this, anyone know what it is?

car only driven for about 68000km, regular oil changes (every 7000km) and always use premium gas.

thanks for any input.
Calgary Saab, nice to see a local owner. I can't give you any direction as to what's going on with the car but I can tell you that Ellis Autodrome in Lethbridge is by far the best Saab shop in the province. I realize that it's a bit of a hike but he is a legitimate expert.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hello everyone, I want to thank everyone for their input.

But I don't have the papers anymore, everything is coming from memory.

I googled bad valves for 2007 93's and the way people are discribing cold starts and their problems, it's almost sounds identical to my issues.

I do remember after the last dealership that fixed it and did 2 compression test and apparently it was good.

I suspect it maybe be a faulty fuel pump, but because when it warms up, it feels fine, so the pump must be fine, which leads me to think its the Intake valves.
 

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It is a pretty big job involving removal of the cylinder head. Not inexpensive at all. Probably over $1000.
Although, there've been a couple people on here that say if you are comfortable with the job, parts aren't much more than $300 bucks. Takes a weekend though, and you've gotta know what you're doing... :eek:
 

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You can buy complete heads cheaply that may be an alterative route. If it was me, and not prepared to DIY, I would be tempted to make the trip to Lethbridge lol
 

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Hello everyone, I want to thank everyone for their input.

But I don't have the papers anymore, everything is coming from memory.

I googled bad valves for 2007 93's and the way people are discribing cold starts and their problems, it's almost sounds identical to my issues.

I do remember after the last dealership that fixed it and did 2 compression test and apparently it was good.

I suspect it maybe be a faulty fuel pump, but because when it warms up, it feels fine, so the pump must be fine, which leads me to think its the Intake valves.
Question: when did they do the compression test? Did you drive the car there then have them do it? If so, compression test would check out just fine. A compression test will reveal the issue when the engine is cold (the colder ambient temp, the better). By all accounts, if the issue is relatively new, as soon as the car warms up the symptoms subside.

A cold (both engine and ambient temp) compression test will tell you if it's bad valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Question: when did they do the compression test? Did you drive the car there then have them do it? If so, compression test would check out just fine. A compression test will reveal the issue when the engine is cold (the colder ambient temp, the better). By all accounts, if the issue is relatively new, as soon as the car warms up the symptoms subside.

A cold (both engine and ambient temp) compression test will tell you if it's bad valves.
The compression test was done when the car wouldn't start, it was towed to a former saab dealership, where the tech is suppose to have 22 years of experience on saabs, they did the compression test then, the pressure wasn't good, told me I have to get engine replace, but at the time I still had warranty, but had to go to another dealership in a different city, so had the car towed there and they found the engine was flooded, they flushed it out and replaced the spark plugs that was damaged, and they performed a couple of compression tests and everything checked out at the time.

but yeah, pretty much after the car has been running for sometime, I don't notice anything wrong with it.
 
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