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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I decided to replace TB on my 2001 Saab SE Wagon with 3.0L engine. I have the OTC TB kit so everything was going smooth. Cams and crank were locked in at TDC when I just started manually turning the crank and the upper idler pulley loosened and it appears to have slipped a few teeth on cams 3 and/or 4. It happened very close to TDC so I can see the distance Cam pulleys 1 & 2 are at, and it looks like cams 3 or 4 are about 4 teeth off. How do I rectify this?
I have put tools away for the night to think about it and here is what I have come up with.
1. Take TB off.
2. Manually do 2 clockwise revs of crank to get it into TDC position.
3. Move cams counterclockwise back into alignment.
Does this sound reasonable? Of course I don't want to bend any valves etc.
Thanks,
Frank from Pittsburgh
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok...after doing so more internet reading I will change my procedure.
1. Take TB off
2. Move crank to 3:00 or 9:00 (whichever is closer) without going through either 6:00 or 12:00. This will set pistons at midway which would make cams easy to move.
3. Line up cam pulleys to marks
4. put TB back on and continue with tension adjustment.

This sounds reasonable to me. Any input from experts?

Frank
 
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yes try to keep the pistons midway as to not strike the pistons, turn the cams to the correct position and top dead center it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I'm in big doo-doo now. I have put engine at what I thought was TDC and put everything together again. I tried starting engine and it sounds awful. I only tried for about 2 seconds. I tried again and with gas it started running but real rough. I ran it for about 4 seconds that time. My thinking is that instead of TDC, that I had the crank at only 1 revolution instead of 2 (exhaust instead of intake). Bear with my explanation since I only partly understand what is going on here.
When I checked cams with alignment jigs (figure 8 tool) everything was lined up nicely when I put the TB on. So I don't think I was off a tooth or anything like that.
Is it a foregone conclusion that I bent valves?
I guess I have to take it apart again and start over.
Besides taking heads off, how do I tell if valves are bent?
Besides taking cams out can I tell if it is exhaust or intake stroke?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Frustrated Frank from Pittsburgh
 

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There's a pretty good chance you "F****d" Frank.

If you have the crank on #1cyl. TDC and the marks on the cams aligned w/the notches in the back cover it should be right.

If it wasn't right and you ran it, even turned it over, you can probably kiss it goodbye.

If your engine has been sitting for a while it could also be the lifters. Mine sat for about a year before I ran it again and it sounded horrible for about the first 3 or 4 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply SaabDozer. In thinking about my problem, I'm now sure I didn't adjust cams to exhaust cycle. Everytime I moved the cams (without TB on) to line them up, they were close to the back marks on the cover. With that being said now I have to figure out what is going on. Could it be the belt tension? I thought it was very taut. I'm not sure I understand the principle of the tensioner. I just moved it into place by hand and tightened it up. I wasn't really even sure what position to set the idler pulleys at. I ended up using Benders 12 and 3 oclock since my initial ones gave way too much slack in the TB. This is what got me into this mess in the 1st place.
I guess I'll have to do more reading on this.
A little calmer after a good nights sleep...Frank
 

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On adjusting the tensioner, when I did the swap on the wife's car about a month ago I got pretty frustrated when the instructions said "adjust the tensioner" without any clue on exactly how to do that. If you turn the pulley it all turns - needed to figure out how to turn just the outside part of the tensioner while the inside stayed still. Took a lil thinking but I figured it out. I tightened up the bolt to a point where the tensioner wouldn't move by itself but it would still move if forced. Then, I took a regular screwdriver and put the blade against the part of the tensioner that the spring stops up against and gently tapped it towards the front of the engine, which turned the outside part of the tensioner while the inside remained still. I did this until the two notches lined up and then torqued down the nut. Done.

Hope that helps.
 
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