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Discussion Starter #1
Doing my breaks on my 2000 9-3 SE (Pads and rotors). What set out to be an easy job turned out horrible.

Looks like the original rotors on the car and one just does not want to come off. I got one off and it was not too bad but 100's of hits on the other side with different hammers and mallets and no luck. I hit it with PB blaster Liquid Wrench, and WD 40 with no luck. Can anyone let me know what they would suggest i.e. heat other rust busters or anything.

Thank you in advance!!!!
 

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Heat it up around the hub area and use a big sledgehammer.. Helps if the car is on a lift so you can get leverage with the sledge
 

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Thread a caliper bolt thru the hole until it hits the rotor then keep turning it until the rotor pops off.
Wait till you see how easy it is!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thread a caliper bolt thru the hole until it hits the rotor then keep turning it until the rotor pops off.
Wait till you see how easy it is!
you can't do that because the caliper bolt doesn't thread all the way through. I have tried. Thank you though.
 

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Well I guess you could thread it in a bit and then put something between the end of the bolt and the rotor and then thread it in.
Odd my caliper,bolts thread all the way to the top of the bolt.
Good luck though.
 

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There is an old saying around these parts.

"When you have done your best, Let the hammer do the rest".

Words to live by :p
 

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There is an old saying around these parts.

"When you have done your best, Let the hammer do the rest".

Words to live by :p
Ayup.

Wouldn't "remove the caliper, whack with large rubber mallet in open area while slowly rotating the rotor" do it? If not, move to large ball peen and ear plugs, then try again.
 

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Silly question, but have you removed the rotor retaining screw?

That aside, my one front rotor years ago was so stuck on that I'd actually dented and cracked away part of the inner braking surface trying to bang it off with a hammer. One of those "Well I need to fix it now!" situations. It finally came off with more persuasion.
 

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Are you hitting the braking surface or on the surface where the Lug bolts go through with the hammer? If you hit where the lug bolts go through you will get much better results, and you will not put as much force/load on your wheel bearing.... I've had to really pound on them before though.
 

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For certain, after the rotor is finally removed, in one or many pieces, do re-new it....:cheesy:
And, do not use a rubber mallet, this is good for what, I do not know..
Also, do use an anti-seize grease to prevent a re-occurrence.
 

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Well I guess you could thread it in a bit and then put something between the end of the bolt and the rotor and then thread it in.
Odd my caliper,bolts thread all the way to the top of the bolt.
Good luck though.
Thanks for this caliper bolt tip. I pounded away on these rotors for an hour before giving up. Then I read your tip on using the caliper bolts. Mine are threaded all the way through and they pushed the rotor off with ease. If I had caliper bolts that were not fully threaded along their length I would go buy a bolt that was. It was that simple.
 

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It's too bad that all manufacturers don't do what most of the Japanese do: They have two 8mm threaded holes in the face of the rotor that are over the hub area. All you ever have to do is screw in a bolt in each, turn a couple times with a wrench, and the rotor pops off.

Once off, clean the hub as best you can so that this problem is minimized and it sits perfectly flat when you mount the new rotor. Put a thin coat of antisieze on the part where the rotor hole is. It will come off easier next time.
 
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