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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I just got both p0034 and p0035 at the same time. Car stalled with no warning, would not start for 30 min.

Can someone point me to the threads on this case and what was the final solution?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, well this is a moderator paraphrase of a post I made in another thread. I didn't actually write this and without the thread I was originally in it makes no sense at all. I had both codes at once (which is near impossible as they are opposites) and a sudden stall and no start until waiting for 30 minutes to cool down. The starter motor also tried to engage anytime I reved to 4500 rpm causing a grinding noise and shooting sparks out of the back of the engine.

THIS IS A SIGN OF A FAILING ECU.... But you would know that had my words not been changed so drastically and taken out of context of the thread.

Of course, If you search for them independently then you end up spraying the parts hose at your car and a year later you give up and buy a ford with what little money you have left.

To fix the issue.... the rabbit hole starts here -->
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What I am looking for now is a reliable place to get the ECU repaired while I drive around on a clone.
 

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I'm not sure I understand most of that, but the codes are not mutually exclusive, because there are two ECM outputs involved.

Both of them together indicate ECM. You could simpy have said that's what you were looking for. Here are a few:

Module Experts
ECU Repairs
ECUTesting

The last outfit offers lifetime unlimited mileage warranty. Unfortunately, they're also in the UK.
 

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They won't be in business long offering lifetime warranties if they're that unreliable. Two of the three I listed offer that. One is lifetime on remanufactured (upgraded new) only, not repairs. The other is one year on repairs. OTOH you can buy three unknowns or one tested/warrantied from eBay for roughly the same price.

EDIT: The real trick is to find an outfit large enough that they have all the correct rework equipment for SMD parts. Someone in their shop with a soldering iron is usually not the right choice, when a proper hot air solder/desolder unit costs several thousand dollars including dies for each chip package.

EDIT 2: Having built SMD prototypes by hand I can assure you that even with an iron with an 0.5mm tip it is a cast iron PITA to do, which is why I recommended bigger outfits.
 

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To be specific .. repair services on Trionic ecus are unreliable .. so they might be very good doing other ecus, but unfortunately few success stories i heard
 

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I can understand that, especially not knowing the reputation of the repair sources involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK, thanks to both of you for your input. I am aware of the difficulty of board repair and the need for a serious shop with serious equipment. I also suspected that tritronic8 repair might be unreliable, not because I know anyone that it failed for, because it's SAAB and that is what I have come to expect.

I have limited options with a 55567225. These are rare right now. The official SAAB warehouse has none. The dealer cannot help me at all. Not only do I need to get my car up and running but I also need a plan to future proof myself.

I have ordered one from ebay that I plan to remap. I hope that this will get me at least running. My real concern (if this even works) is that the ebay ecu is 8 years old and these things seem to have about a 10 year life span. Having an upgraded ecu would be the best plan. I have no choice but to attempt a repair of my original unit and I get one chance at it.

okcrum, you listed those the places. Even before you posted your reply I saw ecutesting's facility and knew that THAT would be the best choice. I live in the USA and it would be a pain in the ***.
My questions to you are: Why did you choose those 3? Do you have specific knowledge of them with successes? Which one in that list would you, in my situation, send yours to?


Any other advise on sourcing a 55567225 or similar is welcome. Thanks to the two for you for your opinions!
 

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I will have to say, first without diagnosing the issue 100% u cant be sure its the ECU, second part number doesnt matter, there are many people can copy ur original ECU to any new ECU with any part number including myself (for free), which makes it easy plug and play.
As for repair services on Trionic8 there are few success stories, but mostly failures, as the most common failed part inside is the main processor.
In case of the bypass valve and injector faults (which are driven by individual mosfets, those mosfets are driven by a TPIC chip, those repair companies change the mosfets and the chip, while the failure is from the main processor driving that chip)
 

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In my experience this would be a failing ECM, we replace easily 20 ECM's a year for this code (which is usually coupled with injector codes). Anyone with Saab security access can take a 9-3 ECM from 2003 to 2006 and marry it to your car. Keep in mind if your car is a 2003 it has SAI, so you'll either need specifically a 2003 ECM or someone with a BDM / TrinoicCanFlasher to enable or disable the SAI function. Alternatively, if you buy one from a 2003 and you DON'T have a 2003 you'll get codes for SAI no flow. I've been buying them on eBay recently, getting harder and harder to find.
 

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okcrum, you listed those the places. Even before you posted your reply I saw ecutesting's facility and knew that THAT would be the best choice. I live in the USA and it would be a pain in the ***.
My questions to you are: Why did you choose those 3? Do you have specific knowledge of them with successes? Which one in that list would you, in my situation, send yours to?


Any other advise on sourcing a 55567225 or similar is welcome. Thanks to the two for you for your opinions!
Actually, I have been looking for remanufacturing outfits for myself. I have an ECU on the shelf which is otherwise fine, except for the fuel injector/turbo bypass valve driver chip on it failing.

My choices were solely based on offered warranty and range of repairs (not location, obviously). You'll notice that FL outfit also does business under at least one other name, possibly as their "professional shop" brand. I plan to call them and ask what it is they do to test these, what their actual warranty on repairs (not remanufactured units) is. There are a couple of outfits in the midwest US I'll contact too.

My final choice to either repair or replace (I plan to put a tune into this "spare" ECU) will end up based on 1) parts availablility 2) warranty and testing 3) cost compared to a reman unit that's tested and warranteed.

EDIT: There's also an third option in my case which is low probability. If all else fails, and I can find the chip I need (genuine, not counterfeit) I'll break out the stereo microscope and soldering iron and change the damn thing myself. I've already got a pop rivet tool. ;)
 

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As for repair services on Trionic8 there are few success stories, but mostly failures, as the most common failed part inside is the main processor.
Now that makes total sense.

The CPU in these ECUs is a Motorola MC68377, which is a 272 pin BPGA (ball pin grid array). That package is designed for permanent one-time soldering only. It has no leads you can see when installed. ECUs where it fails are certainly gonna go in the trash.

Most of the peripheral chips (power drivers, etc.) and external (including flash) memory on these boards are surface mount with leads/pins (often referred to as "flat packs") packages, which are reworkable, with the right equipment. So in a case like mine (above), the board is actually repairable.
 

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Thanks for the kind offer, Hus_sho! Yep, that's the power FET driver chip. I actually have 3 coming from TI this week. The reports I've read have been mixed on this, so I'm going to give it a shot once I get some more flux and dust off my SMD skills. The ECU has only thrown P0201-4 and P0245, no others.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The driver chip for the 4 injectors and the bypass solenoid is a Texas Instrument chip which u can buy original online, but i can tell u from now it wont fix the issue , we already traced it back to the CPU
Now we are getting closer to what I want to know. I am trying to speculate at which fails first (FET or CPU). FETs usually fail to either current or heat and they have a specific operating temperature. The CPU is just sending a low voltage PWM signal so it is unlikely that it is killing the FET. A catastrophic FET failure can send a voltage spike back thru the CPU and damage it. Do the bad FETs burn up totally, ooze from the inside or just go quietly. Do you have any photos of the board or the failed FET?

This is where I am wondering if I get a known good ECU and have the FETS replaced will I actually increase the lifespan of the unit. If it's the CPU that takes a crap first, then it's a lost cause.

Then there is the question of heat shielding. Do you have the FET part number so I can look up the thermal specs. Lets say they fry on the engine due to not enough thermal headroom. A slow death. I'd assume this would make repair more likely (as in less damaging back current to the CPU). If I knew the thermal limit of the FET then I could roughly monitor the temps a devise a heat shield/cooling to increase life.

NOTE: I build and fly racing quads. Blowing and replacing FETs in my ESCs is a way of life for me. Usually it's because of stupid **** like heat/bad motor matching or wrong battery voltage. There is always a very specific reason for failure because FETS are rather robust.... unless you exceed the parameters.

I very much appreciate this conversation and I have already learned more than I expected from this forum. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #19
One more thought, Capacitors have a limited lifespan. Generally 10 years is what they are speced for. Is anyone finding bad caps as well?
 

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With the failed injectors and/or bypass solenoid, these are driven by individual FETs, the 5 fets are driven by a power chip, that receives 5 input from the CPU.
On each ECU with codes related to the above components we tried replacing the fets and the chip together, with no luck, so we assumed its the input to the power chip that stays high coming from the cpu.
Only in one ecu ive seen a visually burn fet, and we managed to repair that ecu
 
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