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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi All, So I've started the work on my 99 9-3 turbo conv... to replace the fuel pump :eek:

How did I find out the fuel pump was bad you say? A no start condition, new CPS, dry spark plugs and and a DIC that sparks. Wanted to start with the most obvious. The fuel pump was next up.

With the key on there was clicking @ the fuel pump relay.
Turning the key as to crank the motor = 11.7v at fuse 32 (so far so good)
still no fuel pump whirring.

Next up lifting the back seat bottom and checking the voltage at the green wire. while turning the key to crank the motor = 11.7v . So with this I take it that the fuel circuitry is intact.

from a spare battery i connected a direct 12v line +Green and -black directly to the harness and still no whirring, mr pump was dead. Commence the cutting of the floor board!

Cut the floor board, removed the infamous "Retainer Ring" and gently pulled the pump cannister out.

Now this is where I so desperately need some help.....just before i pulled the pump cannister out....I pulled back yellow tab so as to release the fuel line fitting. Well the yellow tab didn't break....the fuel fitting that connects the fuel lines to the top of the fuel pump cannister did! :cry: BOTH OF THEM..... the black one and the white one..... the dealer has no clue, they want to sell me the fuel lines and hope the fittings come with them...WTF? :evil:
So I guess my question would be......WHERE CAN i FIND THESE THINGS...

ANY help would greatly be appreciated!

Thanks again, this forum is a life saver!
 

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Are those the lines that come with the whole assembly? If so, I'm sure someone on this forum who changed the whole assembly would just send you those for a couple of bucks to cover the shipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi hkayssi, well I don't need the fuel lines themselvs but I need the fittings that go at the end of the fuel lines.....the ones that plug into the top of the fuel tank/pump

I'll try and include pix as soon as I can upload them :D
 

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Hey! This is the part that you're talking about. Well, I know they sell them, but I don't know how you could put it onto the hard type/plastic fuel lines from where they broke off of? If you scroll down on the page to: http://www.thesaabsite.com/900new/ng900fuel.htmFuel Pump Check valve, you'll see the white one, it's part number is: 4161766. Good luck! I do know that napa sells these plastic hollow tube insert thingys, that you may be able to fit inside the plastic hard line, then put a 1/4 rubber fuel hose over the plastic fitting, then clamp with 2 hose clamps on either end. This is so the hard type plastic fuel line doesn't collapse/crush. Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Leon! Thank you so much for your reply.....I was just looking at the saabsite, why don't they just call them check valves? in the 9-3. section.....

when you look up "check valve" for a 1999 9-3 they show you a brass fitting of some sort.

I think I can get a couple of brass barbed fittings and slide one into the plastic tube and clamp it, then hook some rubber fuel line to the check valves and clamp them....what a PITA... Had I known they were so brittle I would have chopped them at the plastic tube and NEVER would have tryed taking them out of their happy little nest.
 

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Yea, when I first did my fuel pump, I dribbled some gas onto the fittings to lube the small rubber rings, in essence holding the fittings on the assembly. They get dry/brittle and after a time, when someone tries to take them out, it's enough force to break them. So just carefully dribble some gas on the fittings, and see if you can easily pull them out with pliers. "REMEMBER! When you put the assembly back in, you must re-align the line on top of the assembly with the line on the tank" And, yes, it takes a little finess to "wiggle" the assembly out of the tank, but you wiggle it out so the last part that comes out is the metal arm with the tank float on the end. Good luck and I hope all goes well! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Leon,

Well I looked high and low for the "fuel inlet check valve" as well as the "fuel inlet return valve.

I'm located in Los Angles and found "Saab Heaven" I'll post their info later...They hooked me up with both check valves!!!! for $10 man you just cant beat that. When the guy pulled them from an existing fuel pump, he took around 1 minute of patient slow pulling and twisting until they popped out. And they still had about 2" of black plastic tubing. So I picked up some 5/16 barbed brass fittings, took my heat gun and warmed up the black tube and slipped the barbed fittings in. By the time they cooled they had the tightest grip you could imagine. I did slip some 3/8 fuel line over the connections and put some hose clamps just to make sure.

I put just a super thin film of grease on the "O" rings and slipped the fittings in, while the fuel line pressure was relieved I took the liberty of changing out the filter....good thing too 'cause that bad boy was plugged.

Turned the key and fired that bad boy up! You could actually see the pressure side pushing up against that yellow clip! Let her run for 15-20min just to make sure there were no leaks....so far so good! I'll post some pix of the fittings and the wrecking yard! very nice guys...I was in and out in 10 min!
 

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One of these days, this task will present itself, as the pumps are good for 100 to 200K miles and I am at 155K, 11 years.

Far better to cut the access hole. The manufacturer used to do this with the 99/900 series, the 9000 I do not know about.

I'd, using two small screwdrivers, pry up on the elbow fittings , after they have been lubricated with silicone or Liquid Wrench.
If I could, I'd use a mini puller, pulling against the strongest portion of the plastic fitting..Anything to prevent a break or crack..
Lubricate the O-Rings will a little silicone paste..
Record the fuel level at the gauge.
Inscribe your own alignment marks. These are more exact and visible.
Nothing should go wrong.:cheesy:
The people here are most clever and "McGuiverish"..
Great pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Earthworm you are absolutely right! Cutting an access hole made it alot easier. And make sure you take a fuel guage reading! Both very important things to do....My 9-3 came with tick mark on the fuel pump and on the gas tank so as to line them up.......as soon as i get the chance i'll post pix of the finished product along with ohms readings of the old and new pump..... the resistance was higher on the old pump...anything less than 12.3 volts and it would not turn..... geeze, the most i got out of the harness @ the pump end with a fully charged new battery was 11.7v. The fuel filter was also way plugged, I looked like Dizzie Gilespy trying to blow thru that thing.

leon posted a great link http://www.thesaabsite.com/900new/ng900fuel.htmFuel They had both valves in stock and ready to go. These valves are the same for quite a few models.....9-3, 900 series, 9000 series.
Then there was http://www.eliteforeignauto.com/ this is truely Saab Heaven.....lots of newer models..they pulled both check valves for me in 5 min out of a fuel pump that was already removed from a gas tank....these guys had Tons of everything. Can't say enough good things about them. Apparently if you pull straight up and twist back and forth you should be okay, i tried to pull too fast and probably bent them (broke them) that way. I did let them sit in a bath of Liquid Wrench for a while though...still broke 'em. I think if I would have just used some pliers and made sure I pulled 90 deg perpendicular to the top of the lid and twisted while pulling...it would have been fine....oh well, live and learn. Oh yeah and share!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here's the pix I've been waiting to upload.....the ring removal tool is a Leaf Spring U bolt from a full size pick up and a pair of channel locks. :D

The second pic is of the 5/16 barbed brass fitting I pushed into the heated fuel tube......Don't heat it for more than 10 seconds at a time. Keep a distance of about 12" and keep the heat gun moving....You want to heat the tube not melt it! :suprised; Also..NEVER point the heat gun directly down into the hollow tube, just heat the outside from a safe distance. I slid a piece of 3/8 fuel hose on to the tube, just enough to cover the splice and give 2 hose clamps something to bite. Once cooled the tube grips pretty tight.

I little film of grease or silicone on the "o" rings and you're good to go!

Take your time, Remember these plastic pieces can easily break....
 

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Awesome!

Hey DCMARTIN! That sounds great! Good job on your work. Man, I should get a heat gun, I never thought of doing that to the plastic lines. Hope everything's great from now on. :p
 

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Hope you get everything running right again. Once it's back together, make sure to check for signs of leaking from those hoses because they're under pressure. If it takes longer to start, it might be a sign that gas is leaking out of the hoses you fitted, but you should be able to smell it if that's the case. The return is less likely to leak, but there will be no symptoms if it does other than smell or droplets under the car if it's bad enough, but most of it would get caught on top of the tank.

The fuel pump job sucks because all of the parts are so hard to deal with and so expensive if anything goes wrong. I can imagine that even after paying some outrageous price for new fuel lines and check valves, routing them would be a PITA. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey guys, thanks for your nice words...so far so good, no leaks. Just to make sure I put a piece of copy paper between the fuel lines and the tank...if it drips, even if the fuel dries it still leaves a mark..ran it for around 100 miles over the last few days and dozens of engine on-engine off cycles. Pulled the paper before buttoning it up and happy to say she's running w/o leaks. Starts much faster, I don't even get a complete turn from the starter before she fires up!

Leon, you can get a heat gun from Harbor Freight tools for around $10. I have an entertainment center size tool box full of "Mac" & "Snap On" tools and I am still am amazed at the quality of their "Pittsburg" line of tools.....
 

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check valve

hi folks.
in the thick of a repair.
please don't cringe too much if i'm asking a silly question. this is my first fuel pump, but...
when i pulled the check valve fitting, a lille piece of plastic sudenly appeared nearby, looks kinda like this: C----
i assume that this is essential to the operation of the valve and am curious as to whether i have broken the thing or if i should just put it back in as it's going back together (skinny side up?)
thanks in advance for any feedback.
 

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Briarpicker, welcome to SaabCentral, home of the world's best pictorials.

I have yet to figure out how to send pics, much less modify them in any way..., but, I am not the only one.
One of our sponsors makes a metal check valve/fitting hold-down device, if that is what you need...only guessing.:cheesy:

And I have yet to do one of these Euro GM pumps.....the old ones are so much easier, but I do not think they are as durable...

And, such good info from DcMartin
I'll have to measure the voltage being used by my old pump, if the number is 12.4 ,I'll start to sweat, and in this old weather..:nono;
Its bad enough that the brushes are on their last legs..;oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
HI BriarPicker, can u send some pix? The 2 systems on just about any vehicle that are completely unforgiving and can be dangerous if not lethal are the fuel system and the brake system.....with either of these, your best bet is to put things back the same way you found them or better. These things tend to fail at the most inopportune times. I'm not sure what your fuel system looks like at the tank but if it's the same as mine there is alot of pressure on the line going from the pump to the motor.....even more if the fuel filter is plugged. When I fired my car up for the first time after the pump was replaced, just as it primed up...I saw the check valve move around 2-3mm or so. The fuel pump pressurized it and actually moved it! So if that clip you mentioned is actually a retainer, I think you're better off replacing it. You do not want the gas to leak out and saturate the foam under the rear seat...or the fumes to do that either....not fun.

Try this for sending pix....upload your pix to a free web based service, "flicker" "Kodak gallery" etc. Open 2 separate windows and place them side by side. In one is going to be your message box reply and in the other will be your "flicker or kodak" picture. use the bigger pic not the thumbnail. Click and highlight your pic then just drag and drop into your message! thats it.... I know this works on internet explorer7 and gmail. Although I can't drag and drop pix from my gmail for some reason. But they go fine from another source that is not gmail INTO my gmail. This should work better than attaching them because you are not limited to size....I pulled this image from google images.


 

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well, i've got two issues.
one is the retaining clip, an issue i posted in another thread because the situation described there is exactly what i'm dealing with.

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91964

interestingly enough, this is my girlfriend's car as well.
my chivalrous impulses have landed me in a pickle.
i would love to find someone who could sell me the retaining clip setup without having to buy the entire assembly. perusing the listings for parts has not been fruitful as of yet.

i fully intend to check the setup for leaks thoroughly before closing up shop.

as well, when i pulled the return line ((?) the black fitting), a little beige plastic pin fell out of the fitting. i am hoping that i do not have to replace this fitting as well, mostly for the PITA factor that everyone around here seems to regard it with.

thanks for the tips on uploading pics, i will do so as soon as i can get a camera out here.
 

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Presure in fuel line

My fuel pump is replace but it seems likeim not getting any presure in fuel line for some reason... can anyone help with this issuse........ car still wont start 1 week now
 
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